-
• #2027
Push the pipe back down in to its original position and extend the pipe to the sink as then you will be back to how it was when it was draining ok.
Yep, I'll be trying that at the weekend. ]
But now Mrs Ludd has pointed out an interesting fact: the water drains away perfectly happily fron the half sink next to the main sink.
-
• #2028
Just not enough, damnit.
-
• #2029
Could you not mix to much then throw away a little excess? Cheap enough isn't it?
-
• #2030
Just mixed the second bag and finished it off.
The cats are going to be a bit lost- there was a channel between the kitchen floor and the living room which they used to roll their feeding balls up and down- that no longer exists.
-
• #2031
Painting a reskimmed wall that has a has new DPC done, im guessing the wall will need to breath to dry out, so will a cheeep BQ / home base matt emulsion be ok to use as the mist coat and then as the main coat???
-
• #2032
Cheap paint is rubbish. Also B&Q are cunts - don't give them your money.
There are however good value paints out there... :-)Macpherson's Eclipse is a good value emulsion
-
• #2033
cheers absurdbird, its more a question of is matt emulsion breathable or do ineed to use specialist paint on the dpc walls.
-
• #2034
Has anyone had a complete frame and front door fitted? Looking to get a wooden 4-panel front door fitted, wondering if anyone had any good value reccos
-
• #2035
cheers absurdbird, its more a question of is matt emulsion breathable or do ineed to use specialist paint on the dpc walls.
Sorry didn't see this. If you want a breathable paint use a microporous one. Dulux weathershield paints are microporous.
-
• #2036
Has anyone had a complete frame and front door fitted? Looking to get a wooden 4-panel front door fitted, wondering if anyone had any good value reccos
It would be a long day to fit the frame and door hardware and locks etc.
I would quote 2 days (upwards of £320) + materials
There may also be additional making good to plaster where old frame was removed. -
• #2037
Our front door has an old lock in it, and a few random bits and bobs of locking hardware.
I'd like to remove them as they don't work etc, but this will leave areas of the door with a void in.
I could, although it would be a pain in the arse, take the door off it's hinges, prop it on one side and fill the voids with resin- what would be a better idea than this that doesn't involve unshipping the door?
-
• #2038
Put another lock there.
-
• #2039
Cutting suitably shaped blocks of wood, glueing those in, filling small gaps, sanding and painting?
-
• #2040
Or fill the holes without removing the door.
-
• #2041
Cutting suitably shaped blocks of wood, glueing those in, filling small gaps, sanding and painting?
This.
With a bit of 2part filler.
With a properly sharp chisel you should be able to fit wood patches pretty closely to the door. -
• #2042
The locks have, if I'm any judge, been fitted by an enthusiastic but somewhat underqualified handy-person, using the ever-popular "keep cutting and it'll fit soon" technique.
There is not a great deal of door left, surrounding the dead locks, basically.
I'll have a look at making some blocks, but they may be substantial.
-
• #2043
If you measure the overall dimensions of the door, cut the first block to that size, maybe even add a couple of hinges to it, a latch and a handle. Then possibly a long thin, horizontal rectangle slot somewhere around the middle of this block and cover that with a brass flappy type arrangement. That might work.
-
• #2044
Has anyone had a complete frame and front door fitted? Looking to get a wooden 4-panel front door fitted, wondering if anyone had any good value reccos
Cheers. There are some all-in people out there who are quoting roughly £800 for the lot, survey, supply, fit, inclined to do that rather than get my hands dirty, got enough on my plate
-
• #2045
£800 is a good price.
-
• #2046
In DIY news - front garden is almost done. So we'll finally have somewhere to park. Once that's finished we'll be getting the house done.
-
• #2047
In DIY news - front garden is almost done. So we'll finally have somewhere to park. Once that's finished we'll be getting the house done.
-
• #2048
ha ha ha - what on earth?
-
• #2049
^^ ha.
" you weren't home when we came but we went ahead and built the wall anyway as discussed, cheers" -
• #2050
Hello DIYers. I'm interested in refacing a few exterior concrete window sills. They are currently painted and a little messy. I don't believe there are any soft areas, it's just that they're ugly.
So, how could I go about refacing them? Mortar or something?
Edit: Epoxy patching mortar?
Oh and I've now got all the roof insulation (turned up yesterday).
Job for this weekend now, is there anything protective clothing wise I need to wear? This new stuff is all wool.
Also regarding electric running through the loft for lights and what not - should this all be put on top of the new insulation?