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• #19702
It's to confuse the shit out of people driving down our road
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• #19703
I genuinely didn't realise how much of a slope our house was on til i started building it.
This is the only pic i can find that shows the slope.
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• #19704
I have a Konig hardwax repair kit and the mixed whites and mixed greys selection of waxes if you want a borrow.
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• #19705
That's really kind. Let me try and work out the colour and I'll be back to you.
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• #19706
Types of plastic/acrylic/perspexy materials:
What is the lightest weight and strongest / least likely to flex/warp?
What is not stupidly expensive and easy to order more of in the UK to the same spec (4x4 and 8x8 sheets with clean edges - or if the edges are rough they can be polished/sanded down by me)?
What can I screw into so it has a metal frame of some kind?
What would glue well to ply (so I could glue a sheet of ply to one side and the metal frame screwed into the other) and not peel away over time despite exposure to extreme heat and potentially bumps?
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• #19707
Think you are looking at either polycarbonate (tradename lexan) or acrylic (tradename plexiglass)
You would need to look at the specs of the materials if they fit the extreme heat exposure.
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• #19708
Thanks - heat is a tricky one as it won't be under constant heat, just very hot blasts for a few hours here and there (lots of hot lights a few feet away shining at it).
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• #19709
That might be the problem as the material may discolour with the heat cycles/uv infra red too.
Lexan and plexiglass do have a technical support so might be worthwhile to drop them an email.
Thinking about this laterally, you can get plastic splashbacks/wall coverings in commercial kitchens, that stay smooth for cleaning and may cover the heat range that you need.
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• #19710
Bonding agent anyone? I could just epoxy the panel down but that’d destroy the roof membrane if I needed to remove it.
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• #19711
Are you avoiding drilling into the roof?
Epoxy some brackets or similar to the roof.
Or Velcro. -
• #19712
Trying to avoid anything that could be classed as damaging the roof, stick on Velcro might be a bit weedy.
3M trim tape (for holding side skirts etc on) might be an idea.
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• #19713
The industrial velcro (if it bonds to the membrane) isn’t likely to detach unless you want it to.
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• #19714
Thanks - kitchens are a good shout for places to look for inspiration.
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• #19715
Might be worthwhile to look at PVC panels, if it doesn't need to be clea/see through. Used in a few bathrooms as it is cheaper than tiling and can be cheap way to make a wet room and seems not to get damaged by heat from lights left on for hours or students being careless.
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• #19716
Ok cheap source of laminate or lino to cover a kitchen floor till the proper flooring goes in.
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• #19717
Is there a an off the shelf l shaped IKEA or similar bathroom cabinet?
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• #19718
Also anti vibration pads/mats for washing machines.
Do you rest the whole machine/take the feet out? How do you use them? -
• #19719
Where is the cabinet to go?
Washing machine wise I've bought the squares that go under the feet.
Edit - From a french hypermarket as they were cheap, a few euros.
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• #19720
Cabinet in the bathroom, behind the door. I have one but if there was an off the shelf solution for fairly reasonable price I'd be interested in replacing
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• #19721
Was asking if you wanted one round the sink pedestal. friend got sent two from victoria plumb and offered it to me.
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• #19722
Ah thanks but no thanks!
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• #19723
Any idea how to get to the valve in this mixer tap please? There’s nowhere to stick an allen key in like every tap I’ve messed about with.
Perhaps they’re not replaceable?
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• #19724
Nothing under the porcelain?
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• #19725
There was indeed. When I finally got it off. If now knackered and I’m struggling to work out what quarter turn valve I need so I’m tempted to put a new tap on.
If you thought bottom bracket standards were confusing, you want to starting looking at tap valves.
Think you're being a bit mean there it's clearly a case of lens distortion?