Home DIY

They're bonded onto the floor, easier for you to rotate your view.

I had to remove a double pole switch those two ancient fuse boxes run in new tails from the 100 AMP block to the CSU and earth it all properly as well as bond in the earth to the gas meter.

Rewired the house as I still found some lead insulated cable in places, 90% done.

Still needs to be tidied up as its a mess but so much to do and so little time.

You'll come to know that phrase when you own your own home, I was going to sell up and move to........

6.3 Acres plot mmmmmmm

I do own my own home! Lived there a month tomorrow.

What's putting you off moving then? Looks like a nice place if you can deal with the quirky cottage feel oh and a thatched roof!

Somewhere in the cotswolds?

Ha!

I know the feeling though now we've moved I'm sure as hell I won't be doing it again in a hurry.

So you'd be moving out of the city to live there though? Unless you've got a purpose for it a 6.5 acre plot is pointless.

I'm already spending time looking out to our garden thinking what on earth are we going to do with it!?

Can someone recommend a concrete floor repair product? Various holes and dents all less than 20mm deep. If I understand things correctly I need something with special properties to make it bind to the substrate?

Will ask chaps at Leylands anyway, but nice to know what you guys like working with.

Busy weekend - knocking through the window the create new wider walkway and blocking up the old door. (the one on the right of this picture)

Glorious weekend out side which meant I could start on cutting down some trees too, as well as starting to plan the front garden.

re: washing machine waste pipe move

I've had some of the decking up in front of the kitchen (closest drain) and that is a gully trap, I can't see any access covers nearby (except for the two at the front) and I'm hoping the cunts didn't build the conservatory over it.

Either way I'm looking at a macerator job as connecting to clay pipe drainage is beyond my skills and breaking into the inspection chamber at the front needs approval (at cost).

Fucking house.

I always thought if you were building an extension you'd have to re route the drains - or at least provide access under the floor.

I'm going by this earth pic which shows it before the conservatory.

I'm digging the deeds out when I get in.

On second look in google earth I think its this

This means only the decking needs to come up (which could do with renewing)

re: washing machine waste pipe move

I've had some of the decking up in front of the kitchen (closest drain) and that is a gully trap, I can't see any access covers nearby (except for the two at the front) and I'm hoping the cunts didn't build the conservatory over it.

Either way I'm looking at a macerator job as connecting to clay pipe drainage is beyond my skills and breaking into the inspection chamber at the front needs approval (at cost).

Fucking house.

Connecting to the salt glaze (clay pipe) is pretty straightforward and not highly skilled to be honest.
You need to excavate a big enough area to work in, cut a section from the clay pipe with an angle grinder, drop in your plastic T join with short tails of 4" pipe and connect up with Ferncos (big rubber sleeves with jubilee clips either end.

Macerators are horrid they break, clog and smell like shit.

Building over a manhole is a big no no but it happens all the time. Shady builders. The cost of re-routing the drains can be enormous and if there's a Utility consent issue it can be impossible.

Better get digging. I wont know what I need otherwise correct?

You need to find a 500 mm or more straight length of the salt glaze drain.
I had to join into one once below a basement floor which had had shovels of concrete thrown over it before getting buried which had to be chipped off with a scutch chisel. Took a day.
It won't be that bad.

Or it might be.

Like this.

Obviously with the correct bit.

Yeah. Except you won't need to remove concrete bed (phew) and you should cover the pipe with pea shingle before you fill up the trench.

Simple.

And this (sort of)
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hLhWbcl3o0g

So basically dig and find a run of pipe.

What sort of widths should I do?

So the standard is 40mm (probably wrong) but what type/size do I lay under the ground? and traps etc?

Bloody hell.

Just had the bill come through for our first month of storage heating/ using a day/ night tariff.

Ouch.

Storage heaters are going this weekend and I'm moving meter to a set rate.
Don't want another month like that again.

So... I recently replaces the ball cock in our toilet... Today I noticed it was leaking so i turned the stop cock I'd installed in the pipe... The drip stopped.

But now the pipe into the sink next to the toilet is leaking?!

Ruling out for now the possibility it's coincidence or that it was me putting tools in the sink while working in the cistern... Could there be some problem with the water pressure being too high or something?

I'm now off to B&q (assuming it's still open) to get another stopcock and then think about it.

Copper pipe?

Could you have wiggled the pipe as you replaced the other thing? Poorly soldered copper can seem perfectly fine for years until you wiggle it a bit.

Is the basin leak feed from the tap connector? Could just be a not tight enough compression joint you've disturbed with the other work.
Edit:
Didn't read O'Shanes reply. We're both on the same track could also apply to a soldered joint.

Easier to deal with if its a compression one though - just nip it up.

Usually.

Yeah, same as when you disturb a radiator and it starts leaking.

Ok that makes me feel better.

Not found anything soldered yet, it's all been compression.

I'm trying to work my way around the plumbing in my flat with basically no prior experience... Although I think the last person to do anything was in a similar position.

Took picture rails down today and a hell of a lot of plaster with them.

Have since re plastered over the holes.

When its all painted how can i make it blend in with the existing wall? Or should the whole wall be painted white first inc. New plaster??

might be less hassle/easier to paint the whole wall rather than blending. Unless the rest of the wall is fairly fresh

Wallpaper?

Picture rails are nice. Why did you rip them out?

Anyway, plaster, sand, paint.