Home DIY

Need to fit a new freestanding cooker. Electric oven, gas hob. I think the electric bit just plugs in but I assume it will need to be someone gas safe registered for the gas bit, not something I can do myself? If so, how much would I be looking at for this (central london). Cheers

Thanks. I would only have swapped like for like if the RCD was faulty. I (carefully, and having read a lot about consumer units first) swapped the two identical RCDs round and we still have exactly the same problem. So it's not the RCD.

I wasn't overwhelmed by the job the sparky had done who fitted it to be honest: one of the MCBs is missing the plastic clip to keep it on the DIN rail, no gromets used where the cables come in, a few cables that could have been installed more tightly and the plastic cover for the busbar wasn't installed. And hadn't cleaned up after himself inside the CU. But none of these are the cause of the issue.

I'd agree that telling people on the internet it's fine go ahead and take your CU apart is a bad idea...

What I don't understand at the moment is this: it's not the RCD, but whatever combination of MCBs (basically the modern equivalent of fuses) I have switched on or off the RCD still trips.

There has to be a fault somewhere, but if it was on one of the circuits covered by an individual MCB, and that was off, wouldn't that stop it tripping the RCD? Or can an RCD be tripped by a circuit which is meant to be isolated by an MCB?

Ok, quick google suggests the answer to:

can an RCD be tripped by a circuit which is meant to be isolated by an MCB?

Is yes. Is trying to find the fault myself worth a go? Would it be worth testing the sockets etc?

Or shall I just get a sparky in?

Have you swapped the RCD?

Would go through all the circuits making sure all the connections are good and no visible cables chafing. Then take out all the led bulbs to see if one has an issue.

If you already have a flexible gas fitting for a freestanding cooker that automatically seals when you unplug it, I think not. But if you need anything new putting in, then yes, plumber time.

The old cooker is nigh on twenty years old and, as I've recently discovered, was fitted by a random bloke. The fitting won't have any modern stuff

I (carefully, and having read a lot about consumer units first) swapped the two identical RCDs

.

The LED bulbs weren't suspects, two plug sockets and perhaps a loose connection or other issue in the consumer unit were.

I couldn't work it out so I got a sparky in - he tightened everything up in the CU and that seemed to fix it (without even turning the power to it off, lol) but he also sorted out our two faulty plugs. He was great and it cost me £40 which seems insanely low!

What I don't understand at the moment is this: it's not the RCD, but whatever combination of MCBs (basically the modern equivalent of fuses) I have switched on or off the RCD still trips.

There has to be a fault somewhere, but if it was on one of the circuits covered by an individual MCB, and that was off, wouldn't that stop it tripping the RCD? Or can an RCD be tripped by a circuit which is meant to be isolated by an MCB?

Personally, I'd blame the HTG's connection to the PCD as well as the effect of the MHX on the LKI.

Gas safe guy, yes. But also, if you have not had an electric cooker before, pay attention! You can't just plug it in to the mains. It's likely to need a high-capacity dedicated spur direct from the consumer unit — usually 40A. Read the manual!

In my case this meant a new consumer unit (because all the slots were taken by other circuits) and a new armoured cable round the outside of the house (because we weren't about to rip up all the newly-laid flooring).

Seriously — don't just plug it in to the ring main, which is rated only to 13A.

Did he take any meter measurements at the CU?

The gas coupling fittings have been standardised for a long while so this should not be a problem.

Cheers all. The old cooker had an electric oven, it's just a matter of whether that was hardwired or had a plug.

Anyway, this is pissing me right off. I'm trying to fix beading to this angle here (135 degrees) and I just can't get the mitre cut right.

Can anyone point me in the right direction.

Cheers

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Get two piece of long wood and screw them together. Butt them up to the skirting and tighten to form an exact template of the bend.
Split the angle in half. Best way is using a compass.
Use that to guide the saw on the beading.

Has anyone come across a loft ladder (or just a ladder) that will fix on a wall and extend down from the loft space? I'm getting the loft hatch upgraded and its going to end up quite close to the end gable. To avoid taking up floor space and give me something to climb on right up to the loft floor level of the loft it make sense to me to hang it on the wall, but I can't find anything fitting that description.

Tried googling attic ladder? Most of them attach to the hatch itself, but there are some other options.

Folding, consertia or telescopic

https://www.google.com/search?q=folding+loft+ladder&oq=folding+loft+ladder+&aqs=chrome..69i57.18465j0j7

Folding all seem to attach to the back of the hatch, which will be a pre-made jobby w/50mm insulation, so not suitable I don't think. Concertina could work, but all look a bit crap/flimsy, and most telescopic seem to use the space behind the hatch, which I don't have. Maybe this crap diagram will explain the layout a bit better. Fixing to the wall so it extends above floor level like a normal staircase would be ideal.

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We've just had a telescopic loft ladder installed this week - 'tis brilliant. Not sure how much space it uses in the loft, I don't think much. The option we wanted was the wooden loft ladder which basically sits flat on the (extended) loft hatch - could possibly work for you as it doesn't extend beyond. It didn't work for us as we had a joist in the way of extending the loft hatch. My Mum has the wooden ladder, so I've used it and can vouch for it. We used ideal loft ladders - https://www.idealloftladders.co.uk/ - really great, swift, tidy professional service. All done in a day including removal of 2 water tanks (metal & plastic) and misc vestigial plumbing, 2nd layer insulation across the whole loft, suspended boarding of 10m2 for storing things, a striplight and the ladder. Would recommend.

If it's for occasional access, maybe the Xtend and Climb telescopic ladder would be OK. Probably more useful than a dedicated loft ladder

I got a set for work, but use it lots around the home, including getting into the loft.

Cool, maybe I'm overthinking it, telescopic / concertina would probably do the job and could probably be fixed to the wall, if not extending above the hatch and would allow for the insulated hatch. I'm going to get a quote for the whole job as was planning on doing most of the insulation/boarding, but the idea of handing it to someone does appeal!

@CYOA might be able to advise on loft ladders...

I started sanding floorboard today, my god it really is a thankless task... am I fuck doing the whole of the downstairs with a 90 quid RO Sander.

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Are you on a tight budget? I ended up wishing I had got someone in when I did my old lounge. Hired the proper sander but it was still a ball ache.