Home DIY

does anyone have a recommendation for a bathroom fitter in North London (N6)?

Cheers, I suspected this might be the case! Time to rethink.

It's a fun problem to think about, every time you rightly decide it can't be done you get sucked back in again thinking there might be a way. It can make a difference if you happen to have a proper lighting circuit live in there but that's unusual in the hallway lighting.

I had a naughty solution in my house that I eventually sorted out. Ran a line from a socket on the other side of the wall. That's not a recommendation, I used to lose some sleep over it from time to time.

What do you want done?

Window is the easiest bit.

That doesn't look very neat and imo exposes abit too much cable. Especially near a bathroom where misture can be a problem.

Also twist caps and chocolate blocks.

Today I am purchasing a 2nd hand sliding anglable mitre saw. One of the guards is missing, but for the price I am paying is it less than a decent saw blade.

the current one ripped out and a new one fitted. so bath replaced with a shower, new toilet, sink, radiators, tiling and possibly a new boiler.

That is a little more than fitting, I'd say difficult to find one person to do the lot.

I have a concealed shower mixer that has sprung a small leak. According to this video
it looks like something I should reasonably be able to replace myself? The problem is that where the guy in the video uses a hex key to remove the grub screw holding the tap but mine do not look anything like a hex head screw. They look like there’s no head at all. Do these look like they’ve been rounded off or am I missing something? Both flow and temp screws look like this.

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In your previous post, the second diagram has 3core +earth dropping down to the switch. The extra conductor would make it possible, but without it your stuck.

Smart bulb /motion sensor switched?
Pull through another cable?
Move house?

It appears my soil pipe is leaking and causing damp to seep through the wall of the downstairs flat (I'm on the 1st floor). Not sure if it's just the outside pipe, which is quite clearly corroded, or the pipe going through the wall to the toilet on the other side of that external wall (and how you can find out if that is the case).

Who deals with this kind of stuff? Plumber, builder, someone else? Any recommendations for North London and thoughts on how much it may cost? Cheers

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3 core + earth is standard for hallway lighting. The problem is only 1 of the 2 line conductors will be carrying 240v (the 3rd conductor will be neutral). You can't connect the 2 line conductors together because that would stop the 2 way switching from working. So whichever line conductor you connect to for your outside light will be switched on and off by the hallway switches.

It's this kind of thing that keeps sucking you back into the problem thinking it can be fixed :)

You could replace the whole mess with wireless switches. Turn the switch on permanently and put a wireless receiver where your light is. The switch can be anywhere since it doesn't need wires or power.
https://www.tlc-direct.co.uk/Main_Index/Quinetic/index.html#Quinetic_Controllers

Bedroom mould update

Found that theres mould growing on the slats on the bed between the mattress and slats.

This has triggered me into thinking that just keeping the mould at bay at trying to keep the room a bit warmer probably isnt the best way forward and I should probably get the walls insulated

Got 2 different quotes for strip, clean, filler, plaster.

One is stud wall, we lose 6cm for £1800
One is 3cm insulation boards, for £700

Then need to redecorate and rebuild the built in wardrobe ourselves. Anyone got any experience with the differences? Insulation boards sounds good from a both space and cost perspective but id rather the problem was gone

To be honest that isn't too bad. WHen I got my flat I had about 7cm of stuff but all pushed to the side, so no loft insulation in effect. Now with proper rockwool at ~27cm thick (like yours) rolled out on top things are a lot better.

For lights, what I've done is got the units which have an integrated cap, so the insulation can be layed ontop

For me I have the horizonal section of trusses about 50cm above the floor/ceiling so can climb and store on those.
You can get lift stilts to add a storage deck, above

Yeah it was more than I expected, we had one or two chilly nights last week but I think some of that is just getting used to a bigger place and how much longer it takes to heat up.

I think there's room for improvement still especially upgrading the hatch to something more airtight.

That is fucked, get it replaced down to the ground. A plumber will do it.
Once they destroy the verticals they will be able to tell if the bit going into the wall is damaged and whether that needs replacing.
Soil pipe is fairly dear, and you'd save money by employing a plumber who is happy to do this off a ladder, assuming this is from eaves gutter down to the garden.
But our guy usually does this in a day easy.
Apart from if the bit going into the wall is knacked.
£300-400? That's a guess btw, but i wouldn't be too surprised if it came out around that figure.

Last night I went to turn on my oven and it appeared the fuse blew and none of the appliances or plugs in the kitchen worked. So today I bought a new fuse (30a cartridge type) and have replaced it, but nothing has changed. Is there anything else I could try before calling out an electrician?

Are you £40 curious ,
or,
or £14 curious?

If you post a picture of the consumer unit it might be easier to offer advice.

Not your pipe, it is the landlords...his shit to deal with.

Still no power.

Have you got a non contact voltage detector?

@Airhead Bought a wagner wall perfect I sprayer.

It was cheap enough to try painting without masking anything up.

I own the freehold so I've got to, quite literally, deal with my shit.