Home DIY

Any particular filler you recommend? Or fillers to avoid?

Ideally after filling, and curing, and sanding I can drill again (this time deeper) and put them back in the same spot this time with more stout fixings.

I would like to avoid drilling through to nextdoor though!

I thought the same thing, but even with suction on minimum it still does it (and barely extracts any dust). It's a Bosch green and I think it's just a bit naff. Think I'll give that dewalt a go, unless you have any other suggestions? (Rotex is out of budget)

Fair enough, you could hang the free end from the underside of the shelf using this, assuming the shelf is solid.

Shows the level of my electrical knowledge etc but:

Bought a lamp. Took the plug off to fit wire through small hole. Seemingly a self destructable plug - no screws so had to break it open. Bought a replacement plug but noticed there is only a blue and brown wire in the lamp, no earth. There's a fuse in both but in the new plug there's a slot for earth and nothing going into it. I've turned on the lamp with the new plug because yolo etc and it seems to run fine but just checking what the earth situ is?

The lamp is this:
https://www.johnlewis.com/john-lewis-partners-harmony-velvet-ribbon-mini-table-lamp-kingfisher/p3300102

It's got a 50w LED in at the moment if that makes any difference. Says recommended bulb is 6w but I'm not a mole so... :/

Will I make it through the night? Will the whole city go up in flames ? Rolling brownout etc?

50w LED

?

It's probably double insulated, so it doesn't need a fuse. I'm more concerned about the bulb. Is it really 50W LED?! That's mad.

Edit: yeah, what @mespilus said.

50w LED

Equivalent light output to an old-fashioned 50W filament bulb?

55w according to packaging but presume it's 'equivalent'.

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I read that as &W equivalent 55W.

^ yep, and Globe has been shit in my experience. Philips, Panasonic, Green Creative are all good.

6W. 55W equivalent.

6W at 240V = 1/40A. A 1A fuse would be huge overkill.

With most lamps there's nothing for the earth to connect to, so there's no surprise it's not included in the cable/plug.

Weird then, as you say maybe just badly designed. My Rotex went bang one day and I looked at a replacement, I couldn't believe I'd paid anything like that for it. It encouraged me to fix mine.

It depends what you're doing with it but maybe a 2nd hand RTS400 would be better than a dewalt. The RTS is my most used sander by a big margin, they are very reliable too.

Is it this thread or the home owners thread I ask this in:
My builder that we had lined up to replace floor in bathroom and build wardrobe is proving difficult to get a time from.
He's lost his phone, he told me he was busy but might have time in December, getting a reply from him is difficult.

Does any have a recommendation for that sort of work, he came in at very reasonable (1500 I think for cupboard, boxing some pipes and floor - too reasonable?)

Anyway. If anyone knows someone good and at my budget let me know before I start on my builder/checks trade.

Also after someone who can decorate a room cheap and good.obvs. strip paper, reskim the plaster if it needs it because of water ingress from upstairs, paint white. Done.

Going to start rebuilding the little one his room on saturday. Demolition first (which means I'll have to work a few hours this night after work to clear the room, have been stuffing loads of work tools/ other shit in there and want to start early saturday). Clear out the old shitty ceiling, new frame for drywall ceiling, new drywall ceiling with isolation. Hopefully the walls are pretty okish otherwise I might just put new small 5cm drywall in front of them. Might make it easier to redo electricity. Break out old floor, put in new laminate floor. Hopefully the parents/parents in law have loads of free time because I'll need some help for this.

I have a small version of the Ikea expanding globe light to put up in my bedroom. Challenge is that it requires a hook to hang from, and to operate the expand/contract aspect of the lamp you have to pull a cord, so the hook needs to be firmly in place/strong. And, the reason for this question: we had the ceiling battened, boarded and skimmed to get rid of the Artex - so I need a recommendation for a hook that can be mounted in plasterboard which can support (say) a 10kg pull.

Anyone got anything for me?

heavy duty plasterboard screws, the metal ones. I have a radiator hanging on four of these middle ones (they are bigger and take about 25kg per screw, as per the package):
http://i.imgur.com/Z8UmBvH.jpg

Any decent hardware store should carry these.

I have used those, my concern is that the load on those is parallel to the sheet, at 90 degrees to the axis of the fastener.

In my application the load path is inline with said axis- and would be attempting to pull the fastener out of the board rather than through it, if that makes sense?

If you are replacing ceiling and floor take the opportunity to replace all the electrics you can reach. Add more sockets and switches where you want them avoid the risk of having to change things later. In theory that should be done by a qualified electrician.

I think it would be fine, get one that expands a lot.
Alternatively get a ceiling rose that attaches with three or more screws, that would distribute the load even further.

yeah, these things always get out of hand :p my dad was an electrician so I always have him check before I finish the walls but these installations are pretty straightforward.

jup, that makes sense. No idea where the studs are? how is the ceiling built up?

If you really want to be sure I'd make a hole a bit smaller than the ceiling rose, insert a wooden plank that's bigger than the hole, two drywall screws to secure it in place, and screw the hook in there. A bit like this: https://dadand.com/reinforcing-drywall-to-mount-stuff-or-fixing-drywall/

If you can still move the electricity you can find the studs with a strong magnet.

Borderline DIY/interior thread fodder but; has anyone here ordered end-grain butchers' block style worktop for a kitchen island?

I need 150cm x 126cm x 10cm (ish). A few places do them just wondered if anyone had any recommendations for good service?

Folks, have an old house built 1900 with original pine flooring. When we moved in we had the floors sanded bare and finished. The floor guy advised we replace the kitchen but we were not up for the cost because we plan on moving in 5 years and it's original, beautiful heart pine. It's actually gorgeous. In a few places in the kitchen it's splintering up between the boards, which is problematic for us. Next owners can deal with it.

We want a temporary fix. It's only between 5 board. I imagine a filler of some type. I know from lots of reading that's filler isn't advised.

Any thoughts?

got any pictures?