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• #15102
I see that you think you need it :)
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• #15103
Ha. My mother in law came around while I was away on Friday and stuck them everywhere. She also stuck on plastic covers on the gas hob. When I tried to use one of the knobs yesterday I thought I'd had a stroke or something.
Yep re your take on the rest. May flip a coin.
Figure we'll be here for a while so it might be worth getting done at some stage...
Cheers
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• #15104
a compass rose for the garden, laser etched into old scaffolding board
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• #15105
Thanks for the advice. Much appreciated.
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• #15106
I've given up discussing it with (mostly female) householders. After all when you're busy and tired from the little ones, last thing you want is the electrician pointing out you're being duped by the manufacturers of pointless plastic objects. Most blokes with babies around are like 'bigger problems mate'. Fair enough.
First worthwhile step would be a check of the current setup for insulation resistance and earthing/breakers tripping. If the IR passes your wires are not breaking down. If the earthing is fundamentally sound (like actually connected to all the main earth terminals) and the breakers function you've got a relatively safe system.
Shame your MiL doesn't know how to fit RCBO's, she'd be way more useful then. There'll be safety locks on your drawers and cupboard doors next.
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• #15107
Corner sink supports. I've got two bolts so far which have those plastic nuts that you screw down to hold the sink to the wall, but that's not enough - it needs supporting at the corners too.
Bought some little brackets like the old sink had, but there's not really a void for them to project into so the sink's just going to end up resting on the tops of them which is pretty crap.
Is the best thing to do to just drill a hole in exactly the right spot and fit a stud to the wall for the each corner of the sink to rest on? I don't rate my chances of getting it spot on much..
I thought about using some kind of thick (~2cm) eccentric washer fixed to the wall which could be rotated to get the sink level and then tightened up. -
• #15109
I see - changing that to a hanging support, not floor support? Will see how stable it is this way first. Having already hand sawed though the one tube I miss-measured I don't fancy that again!
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• #15110
changing that to a hanging support, not floor support?
yep, plus wall attachment
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• #15111
Haha I know this feeling! I was effing and blinding after miss measuring...twice
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• #15112
She brought them but didn't have time to install!
Thanks for advice, as ever on this thread.
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• #15113
Has anyone ever done anything with the seemingly wasted space above a stairs? It seems like an awful waste to not do something with it especially in a city where extra space is at a premium...
It's a bit high up to fit useable shelving, and a bit tight to hang a bike up there (fiance forbids bikes indoors anyway).
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• #15114
Art
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• #15115
I've seen a cupboard built into the box room of a traditional 3 bed semi.. but it's non easily accessible and usually random seldom used thing up there.
Eventually it gets used if space is a premium for a loft conversion staircase -
• #15116
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• #15117
can someone recommend a tradesperson to replace this door (and likely the surround?)
it's an external shed that houses the meters and not much else, but if it was a little safer could use for a couple bikes as well.
Thanks
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• #15118
Us too, best drying place in the house because heat rises
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• #15119
Recommend me a tape (3m cloth, 3m all weather both unstick) to seal edge bath while the company decided to replace the bath under waranty.
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• #15120
Anyone made there own central heating powerflush machine?
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• #15121
Bike storage or
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• #15122
I'm guessing it's for shower use. Maybe stick a big sheet of polythene to the tiles above head height and overlap the edge of the bath with it. It's a bit ghetto but avoids trying to make anything stick in that very wet area between tiles and bath top. The only tapes I could think of that might last wouldn't come off the bath very cleanly anyway so you may just as well use silicon and clean it off if the bath ends up being changed.
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• #15123
Can anyone advise on which I've these two blades I should get for my plungesaw? Mainly for cutting 18mm plywood and mdf. Looking for an improvement with chipout of plywood over the stock 24T. Also needs to cross cut some 32mm oak with it. Thinking the 48T? What are the funny tails behind the blade tips for the 40T about?
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• #15124
48t. Trend are ok too but I find they dull relatively quickly.
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• #15125
Ta. Quite a bit cheaper than the Freud. £11.50 vs £29.53. Which would you get?
I need that leg for the desk. Not going to be a major issue though.