Home DIY

I'm about to build a stud wall up against an exterior brick wall.

I'm planning on using 2x2s, but should I go for sawn or planed? (I'll be using treated wood either way, as it's a cross-bonded external wall, so has potential for damp).

Also, is it worth framing the wall, i.e. with a base and header plate, or just stick with uprights.

https://www.fixingsmegastore.co.uk/coach-bolts/m6x150-cup-square-hex-coach-bolts-zinc-plated

What paint do I need to use for an external doors of redwood / pine?

And can I colour match it...

Bathroom done (Finally).

Thanks @Dammit for the windowsill wood...

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Nice. What is the shower lined with? Always thought it is fucking daft to have mould-loving grout in a shower...

Coloured glass?

It's lustrolite which is a brand of accrylic glass.

So much better than tiles.

I think @inchpincher also has it...?

Really lovely Aegean colours!

Thanks.

Unfortunately, the wife really doesn't like the white and wants to paint the remaining walls. I think it would make the room seem smaller so we'll see who wins that argument over the next couple of weeks.

Please win

Ha.

It won't be the same dark blue as the wall behind the loo and the windows but. It would likely be a super light grey so something slightly not white.

I'm still against it though.

Looks great, good job. Yep I’ve got the same, damn site easier than tiling.

I’ve been having a DIY week whilst my partner is looking after the kid. Downstairs loo ply sub floor, painted and now rubber floor glueing. Would like a downstairs throne by Sunday 🙏🏻

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That's quite yellow.

Does that just cut like vinyl and glue down?

It’s more orange when the spotlights are on, yep cut and glue. We used black rubber in the bathroom upstairs and it’s really nice under foot.
https://www.colourflooring.co.uk/

Last bit to do in the bathroom... Behind the washing machine in the cupboard.

I can't put skirting because I need to have the sliding door go right back to the rear corner but I can just leave a massive gap to the void under the house...

Expanding foam? Or something else?

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Leave the thickness of the sliding door gap between the skirting and the wall? Or cope the corner of the door the same shape as the skirting?

Door plus mechanism is probably around 65mm when done so it'll still leave a gap. Obviously less to fill than before...

Started to clear the old plaster from inside my outhouse, bit worried as the mortar appears to be basically dust (softer than the plaster) and there are some big cracks in the plaster near the top indicating movement. Wondering if it would be wiser to basically dry line it with something like OSB?

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I know it's untidy but can you think of a practical reason to fill the gap?

Surly it's going to be invisible with the washing machine in the way?

Mice...

Don't want to offer a tasty little gap from the house void into a warm space with food etc.

It's new toy day today as well :)

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Nice! How are you finding it? I have a plunge saw from them and it is much better than I was expecting for the price.

the mortar appears to be basically dust (softer than the plaster)

If it's lime-based, it should be pretty much the same stuff. If it's harder, it's possible that someone has added gypsum (which would explain the cracking) or even cement (again, which would explain the cracking).

If you dryline it, you should consider battening it too, or risk damp boards. Maybe even chuck in an airbrick.

I'd consider repointing (roughly) with NHL 3.5, rendering with pretty much the same thing (maybe with a pozzolan added) straight on the brickwork. It won't be polished like gypsum (I'm guessing as it's an outhouse, it won;t matter), but if you want a smoother finish, you could skim a chalk render on top and finish with a lime wash.

It's great so far.

Only really needed it to rip one architrave piece and it worked flawlessly.

I'm going to make a finger joint jig and start doing a few carpentry jobs around the house over the next few months though.

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