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• #14502
Nice one. That's the sort of thing I had in mind
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• #14503
It's more work then ready made fillers, but worth it in applications where strength matters. Mixing is annoying, if you put too much hardener in it becomes unworkable quickly. Best to put too little than too much IMO. And it's a PITA to sand after its dried as it's so hard, so try not to overfill.
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• #14504
Thanks for the advice. Sanding shouldn't be necessary as it'll be out of sight.
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• #14505
Hi all. Looking for help refurbishing a table. I have recently purchased a second hand dining table that I am keen to sand down and varnish. I have not done this before but it looks reasonably straightforward? Is there anything I need to consider? I am not sure if it is currently varnished, lacquered or anything else. Does that really matter? Can I just sand it down to the wood and put some tung oil or equivalent on? All I know is that it is c5 years old and is made from oak. Thanks
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• #14506
You need to establish if it's solid or veneered, you can easily sand through a veneer. If you are going for a gloss finish the process is a bit more complicated as you'll want to strip any existing finish with chemicals and apply the varnish in layers, preferably with a rubber (see French polishing). If it's more country style and solid oak you could just sand and varnish but there's still a ton of things to consider and even more that can cause poor results.
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• #14507
Thanks! It’s solid wood. Looking for a Matt finish. It is a fairly contemporary style but I believe can just be sanded and varnished. Any particular varnish you would recommend?
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• #14508
Pics would help.
If there's a thick layer of varnish on it now then it will be faster and easier to use paint stripper to clear the bulk of it then sand.
Danish Oil gives a nice matt finish. Otherwise have a look at what sounds appropriate in your DIY store.
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• #14509
Will take a pic tonight. What grit should I sand down to?
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• #14510
How country do you want it to be?
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• #14511
This is said table top. Like the colour just want to clean it up completely and make it “new” again
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• #14512
Fairly smooth. Was more thinking what works best for danish oil
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• #14513
From the YouTube video I was watching last night on sanding solid wood dinner table, 150 to 180 grit depending on what finish you are going for. He was using a belt sander first and then finishing off with orbital. Link below in case it's useful.
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• #14514
I would leave it and just periodically give it a wipe with mineral oil, unless it already has a drying finish, in which case sand as recommended then oil.
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• #14515
If it was me I would random orbital it clean with P150. Then hand sand with a block at P120 then P180, maybe 240 if I could be arsed.
You’ve got a job there to avoid cross-grain sanding, hence the hand sanding.
Then a good quality Danish oil (e.g Briwax).
Are you sure those panels aren’t veneered? They often are in a frame and panel construction. -
• #14516
Thanks all. It is solid wood but yes will take some time to avoid cross grain sanding. I’ll give it a go up to 180 grit I reckon and see how it looks. Didn’t cost much so not too concerned if I ruin it! Will keep you all updated
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• #14517
You could also use a cabinet scraper:
https://www.faithfulltools.com/p/FAISCRAPER80/No.80-Cabinet-Scraper-70mm
https://www.amazon.co.uk/Faithfull-SCRAPER80-4-inch-Cabinet-Scraper/dp/B005K7JY5AI find these much easier and quicker than using a sander.
They leave smooth surface, without the dust and noise of a power sander.
They need to be sharpened before use and a little hook turned on the blade which will take fine shavings off the wood.I've been finishing furniture with Osmo polyx oil with pleasing results. It leaves a nice water resistant finish. I think it is available in matt.
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• #14518
Thanks.Sorry for the slow reply, was away and read it on the way back.
Does a cupboard take precedent over the zones?
Do you have a floor plan of what you had done? -
• #14519
I don't have a floor plan right now.
It was only finished over the weekend and I've just landed from Greece.
I'll take a couple of pics when I get home later...
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• #14520
Ha sure, that’d be great thanks.
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• #14521
It's very much unfinished but here's a couple of snaps from tonight...
Shower screen to front of washer is ~100cm
Shower screen to hard wired socket is ~160cmCupboard door to be installed in the next week or so.
The wall to the left of the washer is straight but the panoramic makes it look well wonky.
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• #14522
No Alpecin or Aesop.
Shame.
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• #14523
Thanks looks good.
Trying to decide how far to go with the renovation as need to extend up in to the loft very soon. -
• #14524
cleaned up this cast iron pan today. anyone know what (cooking) oil is best to season it with? bearing in mind ive only got olive, sunflower and vegetable.
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• #14525
You want an oil with a low smoke point, so that it quickly plasticizes as you take it to high heat to build up your seasoning. Online will get you a listing of the lowest, though I think the olive is the one out of those three.
Last bath that was fitted happily moved about, as it wasn't fixed in place properly, and caused the silicon to keep failing. So water was getting under the bath and causing problems. Once attached to the wall and a frame for the bath panel, bath stopped moving about.
The filling the bath with water is a really good tip.