Home DIY

I'm more likely to incorporate mineral oil next time. I would like a quick fix for the tackiness as I'm back to work TMRW.....
Wait?
Wax?
Olive oil?
Burn it all.

https://www.waterlox.com/project-help/guide?id=f10c7bea-f3c0-4f0f-8db3-70062369b91c
Not sure which finish you have, but these guys recommend water and vinegar, followed by mineral spirits, followed by steel wool/320 grit sandpaper.
Basically, your evening dance card is full.

Check insurance is up to date and then set fire to it.

They scratch and then look worn.

Looks like not enough ventilation to dry it overnight.
And not quite all the excess wiped off.
Sigh.

It'll have to wait a couple of days, bedtime rules everything all me right now.

I’ve got 54 of these left over from a job if anyone wants them. Free obviously. In Leyton. I’m offering them as they’re fairly generic so someone might want to add them to more from Wickes to do a yard or patio or whatever:

https://www.wickes.co.uk/Marshalls-Block-Paving---Charcoal-200-x-100-x-50mm/p/224616

Thanks. I do appreciate you looking. I am aware I am doing that "ask until you get the advice you want to hear" thing.

Tempting.

For those eagerly following this thread, I've rubbed a bit of rough, not tacky, worktop with a denibbing pad. Is smooth now. Have looked at the tacky bit closely, mainly the edge that you stand against, lots of drip marks (how unprofessional), I imagine it's those that aren't dry and causing the stickiness I can feel. Rubbed a small patch, will see what it's like TMRW. It's not bobbly anymore.

Maybe it just isn't dry properly.

Otherwise, I'm burning it on Thursday.

cheers and good luck

More damp fun.

tl;dr found more damp, need to replace bits of the floor.

Took up some (engineered wood) floorboards, pulled.off the skirting, and the chipboard below is wet. There's a little mould here and there, but no rot (that I can see so far).

It looks as though someone in the past has "fixed" the damp with chemical injections and there's a waterproof membrane where the chimney breast used to be.

Combine that with the impermeable cement render on the outside, and the bricks are also wet.

One small hole in the chipboard later, and the gap between the wall and sill plate is full of rubble, sand and other crap, bridging between wall and joists (the chipboard is sitting against the brick in places).

The chipboard itself is up against the walls in places too - probably not disastrous by itself, but when combined with standing water from the cement and tile paving outside, which is (or was, until I dug it up) above the floor level, it's just another way for damp to make it's way inside.

The plan to remedy then:

Rip a 2ft wide strip off the chipboard, clear out the debris behind the sill, chuck a membrane between the sill and joists, the let it all dry for a month or two.

All this will be behind a temporary wall made of 2x2 and protective sheeting, so that we can continue to use the room.

Once it's dry, put some more chipboard down, remove the sheeting, and live with it over next winter, to see if the problem is fixed.

If it's fixed - out the temporary wall back up, strip the crappy plaster, replaster in lime, let it dry, then put the boards back (and finally take the temporary sheetvwall down).

If it's not fixed - back to the drawing board.

We all do that ;) especially me. Is it bad that you knw you are doing it and can't stop?

Shall we bring marshmellows?

Dehumidifier? to speed the drying out.

Find the source of the damp, oh and don't use chipboard or mdf. Marine ply is a preference.

Any suggestions on good places to buy roller blinds. Looking for decent quality blackout ones, preferably custom sized. Prices appear to vary wildly online. Cheers

We used Directblinds.

Ordered a few sets of swatches before deciding on materials. Black out blinds black out.

I also used them (non blackout blinds), quality and colour are good but cords could be longer...

1 Attachment

For those sitting on the edge of their seats, it's all dry. Not tacky. Just feels rough and a bit raised. I'll lightly sand with >240 grit and hopefully we'll be ok!

winning!

I have an old four socket chandelier that kills bulbs.
It will work fine for a year or two and then one bulb at a time will flicker for about a week and then die. I've had both incandescent, halogen and leds.
I don't know much about electricity so always thought that if it hasn't blown the first time it's turned onn then everything is fine. But there might be more to it.
What could be the cause?
Thanks

but cords could be longer...

Cords on blinds need to be kept short as they are a strangulation hazard for children. You can buy cords that will snap apart easily but I've found they tend to do that in normal operation unless you are careful.

RoSPA linky

Fair enough, I just thought they’d size the cord to the blind. It’d make sense if these were going very low (1.9m drop) but as they start up high it’s a bit awkward to reach the cord.

I have an old four socket chandelier that kills bulbs.

Possibly a loose connection either on the ceiling rose connection or on the lamp holders themselves. If it's happening to all the lamps I look at the ceiling connection or the light switch for loose terminal screws and/or signs of arcing.

Yeah, you can spec them with longer cords for places that won't have children present but for domestic they will always put short ones on.

Thanks. It did the same in the old apartment so I guess I should look at where the cable split out to each lamp, right?
What are signs of arcing?