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• #12552
Floor space is a premium but there is a whole blank wall above the existing rad that would happily take a rack (or tall towel rad if a suitable side entry valve one exists).
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• #12553
Are we no longer discussing the 20 turns of PTFE?
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• #12554
Well it seems that you are.
Jesus fucking wept.
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• #12555
You could always make your own rad to fit. It is simple and cheap.
Here is one I did earlier:
1 Attachment
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• #12556
Bugger all surface area, you're not going to achieve much flux through that.
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• #12557
It takes the chill out of a tiny shower/wc room with about 1.6 sq.m floor area.
It was designed by guesswork, how to best use the 800 mm space between the sink drain and wall. I was prepared to add more surface area or even rebuild it with more pipework but that has not been necessary. The thermostat stays at 3 - 3.5. -
• #12558
Jesus, the spanish bloke who works in the coffee shop?
I don't get the idea of using that much ptfe.
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• #12559
Will you shut up about PTFE. Nobody cares anymore; the earth has revolved and it's another brand new day.
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• #12560
How many revolutions?
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• #12561
Ha!
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• #12562
You could add an electric towel rail. They're quite useful because you can put them on a timer and have them work independently of the CH. I put one in a wasted corner in our bathroom and it's ace. In the summer, when the CH never comes on, I can put wet towels (or washing) on it and press the boost button to dry it out.
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• #12563
Again, if it ain't easy, I ain't doing it. The original idea was only to swap the rad if it meant a simple swap out. That doesn't look likely what with most towel rads having vertical tails which would require plumbing and floorboard work. Similarly, running in electro-cables will require much more work than I am willing to outlay just to have toasty towels.
99.9% sure we'll just bung a ladder rack/rail on the wall above the current rad.
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• #12564
a big run of felting has come off the shed roof. ive tacked it back down for now. Adding more layers over the top seems a half arsed solution compared to stripping it all off and starting again, but, its winter.
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• #12565
I would replace as soon as you can be arsed/it dries out as you don't want to trap moisture underneath and rot the roof. Tarpaulin would be an acceptable half-arsed solution if a) you can secure it and b) you plan to strip the felt soon anyway.
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• #12566
I'm pondering adding another light in my hallway, preferably to be controlled by the light switch which controls the existing light (it's the same hallway, I can't think of any circumstance when you'd want one but not the other on).
It's a flat roof above so I have no access from the top.
I assume the process is to put a narrow channel in the plaster/board from the existing light fixture to the new one, wire a spur into the existing fixture down to where I want the new one, add the light and then somehow patch over the channel.
Does this sound sensible? Am I missing something that is likely to electrocute everyone in the neighbourhood, set the house on fire, result in the apocalypse, make it look a bit shit?
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• #12567
Think you're funny?
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• #12568
Stick on trunking?
How far are the lights apart? Could you get a drawline through?
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• #12569
Which way do the joists run? You might get away just fishing a wire through a hole where you want the new light. If the joists run the wrong way then you need to open up enough of a channel to get a drill in and drill through the joists or find existing holes etc. An electrician would be looking at where the feed comes from and maybe using it to fish through a wire to get it where they want it.
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• #12570
Just doing some work on laptop in the kitchen and the lights suddenly got VERY bright. Less than half a second. WiFi also seemed to switch off (using 4g now). Power surge? Anything to worry about? I.e. likelihood of something not being wired properly somewhere in the house? Potential fire/live wall of something equally shitty?
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• #12571
Have you checked the children?
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• #12572
Are they supposed to glow?
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• #12573
Looking to lay some laminate flooring over some old parquet flooring.
I would like to sand it but there are chimney breast removed and screeded so loads missing aswell as quite a few badly damaged.
So for now laminate seems like a good idea.
I've bought the flooring now and I've been reading horror stories about breatabilty of the flooring being effectively sealed and causing a lot of problems.
The floor is walnut bitumened on to concrete floor with no apparent moisture issue as of now.
Shall I do it? Is a problem further down the line unlikely? Or is this definate no go.
Losing sleep thinking about if. :-( -
• #12574
You need to get out! Jill?
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• #12575
Next door have just taken their roof off & top floor apart, leaving a lot of joists and rafters in the garden.
I have a bike shed building project that I want to get started, and a repointing project to start (way in the future) too.
Is it worth using some of the wood for a frame for the shed? Would it be pressure treated as standard?
And I need to build a scaffold for the pointing, as the path between my house & next door is too small, I'm told, for normal scaffold - again, (and I'll likely get some professional advice on this in any case) is it worth re-using some of the bigger timbers, or should I just try and find somewhere that has <75cm platforms, and stop being daft.
We have an old wooden towel rack sitting in front of the small rad. It is always my towel on the back getting warm.