Home DIY

Don't want to worry you, but I'd get that checked for asbestos.

I was planning to get checked for asbestos anyway, £300 but sets mind at rest. Somehow the house feels a bit old for asbestos but there are some ceiling tiles in a spare room that I want to get checked out. If Asbestos in the ceiling spaces, then I will hope to leave unsettled, and just cover up in the attic with more fibreglass, with appropriate PPE. Will look up wood lathe/plaster - have struggled to find anything remotely similar looking online so far.

Silly question - but it's cracked off the top layer, so what has happened on the underside? Ceiling plaster holds it together?

Thanks for the info - feel happy now to crack on under the floorboards and insulate the uninsulated heating pipes and find where they are rubbing and causing the creaking noises!

I need to seal a wooden kitchen countertop which has a sunken sink.

And which has become one of my least favourite things in the world. I mean, really. Wood? Next to a sink?

Google says 2k polyurethane. I'm inclined to agree. Can I do this myself, or will I die?

And should I just clean and sand it as prep, or should I oil it too?

Polyurethanes need dry substrates,
can you get the surrounding wood completely dry?

Anyone had issues with the Girpit fixings screw heads breaking off? Had it happen twice yesterday, was really annoying

Not familiar with Girpit,
but,
did take the hexagon head of an M8 coach screw recently,
when I underestimated the length of hole, into masonry, needed,
with a heavy duty 8mm rawlplug right at the base of the drilled hole.

the screws on the wings. I tried to use a screw driver to turn them but the plastic part just chewed up and then when trying to turn the screws the heads just sheared off

Kitchen mostly stripped out, electrician in tomorrow. Decided to scrap the old units as too much hassle to renovate. Think I'm going to put the sink over a 600 wide unit in front of the opening there with a slim dishwasher to the left. What's common practice/ regs in terms of power for these, does the switch have to be above work surface? Might end up quite close to the sink if so.

Also found the stop cock for my mystery tap that's unaffected by the other one. Anyone got a bright idea of how to create neat a service hatch through vinyl?

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Is that ^ stopcock only turning off one tap?

It seems to affect everything else too, so I guess the answer is to shut the under-floor one off and install a 3rd one for the mystery tap alone in a more accessible spot, then cover this one back over.

What's common practice/ regs in terms of power for these, does the switch have to be above work surface? Might end up quite close to the sink if so.

A method of isolation needs to be obvious. You can put the socket underneath and put a labelled double pole isolation switch above (preferably with a neon light).

Although the regs don't give a minimum distance from the edge of sinks to electrical switches or sockets NICEIC recommends not less than 300mm, ideally not less than 1000mm.

hmm, that won't happen with it on that wall. In order to fit the dishwasher in it'll have to partially sit below the draining board, so the switch will probably be 200mm max from the tap. It could potentially go on the return of the old chimney stack which would make it about 400mm and round a corner, then could just run the cable out the old opening then.

Anyway I'll ask the spark about it tomorrow.

Re plumbing: is it possible to fit an isolator valve in about 1m of exposed pipe, fixed at both ends.

can you get the surrounding wood completely dry?

We could stop using the sink for a few weeks - or coat it after being away for a couple of weeks.

How dry is dry?

Yes there are a few ways to do it.

bend the pipe up a little to get the isolation valve on
use a slip coupler
Cut a U shape of pipe into it with your isolation valve on (this can be an opportunity to move the isolation valve to a better position, i.e. Above the floor if it's currently under)

You'll also open up the potential for it to warp if you create an impermeable barrier on one side and have untreated wood underneath.

Other that a match, what are my alternatives? Wax?

I only need it to last for five years or so, by which time I'll be ready to rip it all up a start again.

Danish oil.
It's what I'm using/have used.

Circular Sanders / detail sanding : can I use an electric drill?

What for? I have a palm sander and a multi-tool type thing with a sanding head and you are welcome to borrow either

I have a big mdf bench that's been painted, but needs painting again (because children). I was going to sand off the bits of glitter that have become one with the bench, slap some one coat on, boom.

the detail finishing is for the bit behind the sink that needs re oiling. i did a bit by hand, but I reckon I could be much faster with a smaller powered sander.

Well, they're in my shed over by the Upper Norwood transmitter if you want them. I also have some sheets of sandpaper and plenty of wood scraps if a custom sanding block would be easier for behind the sink.

@Chalfie

Bonza.
I've been using sanding pads for behind the sink, they seem to work ok. But i'm fucked if I'm doing a whole bench...