Home DIY

Stainless or porcelain over steel integrated are good too.

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Sand and re-oil unfortunately. Sand with a coarser grit then a very fine grit for a final surface then oil, dry, oil, dry, oil.

A

Wood needs to sealed with oil to stop water penetration. But it will need to be sanded now it's damaged perhaps even staining if it's really bad. Liberal amounts of Danish oil is required. And I would use wood worktop sealer after that.
If you fastidious I would use a card scraper to level out the worktop pre sanding.
It will look so amazing, you'll want to eat your dinner straight off it.

Thanks alot for this. Would you like a job?

Well melamine-faced ply is gonna look pretty plasticy too!
Have you looked at richlite/paperstone at all? It's not cheap cheap, but in terms of value for money it could hit a sweet spot.

What you're looking at there is a Belfast sink so it isn't hanging off the bottom of the counter top, it's sat on a base unit.

I was in a furniture store in Hollywood this weekend and they had an epoxy natural stone floor - it looked brilliant. I think I'm going to save that idea for a later date and use in kitchen/dinner/outside space as one continuous flooring material.

Yes I realise that - was just for illustration. The ply edge would be similarly exposed in an undermount sink.

Have heard of but not considered. The faced ply looks nicer than solid surface I would say, but opinions, arseholes etc.

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I am trying to hang a bathroom cabinet that lost its fittings in our house move last year.

It hangs on screws (?) using the built in slot brackets, picture below.

My issue is that any screws I have that are big enough to hold the weight have a head that is too wide to fit into the circular slot. The only ones that are narrow enough are about 10mm long and very thin.

I'm fitting to plasterboard with, ideally, rawlplug interset fittings.

What kind of screw & fitting do I need?

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Regular screw with the sides of the head filed down?

Yes, that's my backup option.

Anyone else?

Get some umbrella fixings

http://www.toolstation.com/search?searchstr=36548%2048611%2058888%2053569%2027216%2030410

That's what I have. Rawlplug ones. But the screw head is too big.

I got M5 ones. Maybe I need smaller ones. They don't seem to specify head diameter on the descriptions, annoyingly.

Umbrella fixings with the sides of the head filed down.

Right. I'll get the file out.

Cheers all.

The cables on the left go off to a spur that I want to remove as it is currently above where a new sink will be fitted. Am I correct in thinking that I can just trim the cables coming from the top and out to the spur, replace the cables coming back from the spur with these? All external from wall so nothing will be left behind.

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As you have cables going to it and coming back it's part of the ring. A spur would be just L N & E running to a socket/fused spur. But your logic is correct, as long as that 'spur' socket doesn't have any other connections in it. It looks like singles in conduit, might be worth labelling them before you start.

Sorted. Still alive, appliances work and nothing tripped. Cheers.

I really rate Grip-it fixings for plasterboard, the yellow ones should fit. You'll need a spade drill bit and possibly the router bit they make if you land on a dab of board adhesive or a noggin. Their load bearing capability is insane.