Crafts / Craftsmen / craftswomen (craftspeople, I suppose)

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  • Thanks, yes it was done on a small lathe in the Edinburgh hacklab.

  • I've been re-directed here from the 'any question' thread:

    Does anyone know a trustworthy source of high-quality (!) hardwood in small quantities? Needs to be fine-grained and dense, well-aged preferred; Swiss pear, chequers, boxwood (possibly Castello), maybe cherry. Purpose: scale model building.

    Obviously this can be relatively expensive, which is fine, as long as the wood is actually what it's supposed to be. I see some online sources (even on ebay), but I'm not sure yet which ones might be trustworthy.

  • Workshop heaven is good for small quantities of specialist wood, just don't let the tool pron drag you in!

    Alternatively most Axminsterhttps://www.axminster.co.uk/stores/ stores sell a small selection of decent rough sawn hardwood but it's got and miss as to what they have in stock.

    For larger quantities these are good:
    Moss and co
    Surrey timber

  • Prefect, thank you very much for the links! I'll go through those, someone's bound to have something useful :)

  • Dictum.de has a huge online selection of exotic wood bits. Intended for knife handles or pens so quite handy sized blocks.

  • Another good tip, cheers.

  • made another bowl


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  • Nice job, what kind of wood?

  • Ash, unseasoned though, so may crack

  • Our street is mostly ash-lined, unfortunately they are all slated for destruction thanks to the Emerald Ash Borer. Was wondering whether it was that or Elm.

  • got some coloured threads so knocked up this hip flask cover. laser cut pattern and holes.


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  • I’m looking to join pieces of oak together to use as table legs. See illustration.
    First though was to just screw it together, but then I’d like something nicer looking. Dowels? Wonder if that would be rigid enough. Any other suggestions?
    I’m designing a table. Other questions like this will probably come...

    Thanks


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  • It all comes down to how long the table legs are going to be. I can't see those legs being strong enough for anything much taller than a coffee table.

    The strongest way of doing it without mechanical fixings would be to make the dowels narrower on the ends than the middle, this will give you a bigger surface area for the glue to hold. Looking at your drawing I'd turn the dowels on a lathe so that in the middle you have a 15mm long by 13mm dia section, then at either end you have a 10mm long by 10mm dia section. The end sections can then glued into a corresponding hole in the leg sections, making sure that there is good contact for the glue between the face of the leg sections and the step in the dowel.

    Alternatively you could countersink a screw into the face of the wood and plug it.

  • Looking for some large bowl blanks, to make tops for a couple of stools. Around 16" diameter and 4" thick. Could be a board. Any recommended online retailers?

  • https://www.oliverswoodturning.co.uk/product-category/woodturning-blanks/bowl-blanks/

    I'm not a wood turner but this is my uncles company

    If they don't have your size listed on the website drop them a message

  • Thanks Bobbo. Your thoughts are greatly values.
    The plan is for a mid size dining table, but I’m more concerned with rigidity than strength, but wood dowels in a shallow hole is probably not good in either. I guess I’ll have to do a mock up to test.
    Maybe a metal dowel through the face would be better. Small polished stainless circles might be a nice feature. But then again if I use stainless screws and polish the heads it might look just as good and could be disassembled. I think four to five dowels or screws for each leg...


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  • I’m more concerned with rigidity than strength

    The structure will be pretty rigid. The problem as I see it is the joints pulling apart over time with the day to day movement and use of a dining table. The drawing above will be pretty strong especially if you use some kind of epoxy glue to hold it all together. I'd be tempted to put some kind of metal bracket at the top and bottom of the leg for a bit of extra strength.

  • Late here but I get guitar wood from David Dyke - some of that might suit.

    Also prime timber (pr1me timber?) Have interesting stuff.

  • There is a direct importer of unfinished Olive from Spain on Ebay, the grain on the planks I've had is stunning. Just be sure to look very carefully at any piece you like on a large screen. Search 'olive timber'.

  • last bit of making from last year.

    jazzed up these plain notebooks with lists of penguins and planets/moons of Jupiter/black holes

    and made some reflective spoke arrows. a shameless rip off of @pdlouche


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  • Using material I gave you, no less

  • Not for sale, just a homage.

    Here is where the originals are

  • Bro it’s yours to do with what you wish. I’m happier seeing arrows than XR stickers!

  • Thanks again and sorry for the late reply.
    I plan to join close to the top and bottom ro minimise leverage. I have a quite complicated idea for the rest of the frame that will hopefully help the keep the top part stable...

  • some 3D printing. fork attachment for bikepacking, should be able to attach a drybag, 2l cider bottle etc here.


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Crafts / Craftsmen / craftswomen (craftspeople, I suppose)

Posted by Avatar for Sam_Doman @Sam_Doman

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