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• #2527
Tomahawk
That’s way cool. Is that all alloy underneath including the wheels?
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• #2528
Steering and suspension installation.
It's all typical Tamiya, it goes together beautifully. I've installed the steering servo upside down, this option give less bump steer according to other reviews.
5 Attachments
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• #2529
Building and installing the shocks was fiddly, but straightforward.
4 Attachments
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• #2530
With the chassis finished and the electrics installed it was onto the bodyshell. Lots of thin coats of black, red and white.
5 Attachments
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• #2531
The kit comes with a nice scale roof rack, a lighting kit, loads of stickers, that gave me a real nostalgia hit when I opened the packet, and extra detailing like wing mirrors and wing lights which I've not yet installed.
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• #2532
I figure we should have a nerdy meet up somewhere for a bit of driving action.
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• #2533
Whitehall? 😁
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• #2534
Hard agree!
Loving the build diary and photos. The idea running the motor backwards would work… also, high turn crawler motors are quite inexpensive - 55T or so.
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• #2535
All alloy except the wheels, which are doing a good job of pretending!
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• #2536
Also enjoying the build diary- keep it coming!
All alloy except the wheels, which are doing a good job of pretending!
Yeah the wheels do look pretty convincing!
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• #2537
One to I've heard is to run the motor connections to the speed controller backwards and then reverse the controls in the transmitter.
You should be able to profile the throttle on the transmitter, too.
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• #2538
Just finished the chassis on my CC02.
You can use a higher turn motor (i've put a 35t in mine, but many crawlers are 55t). You could also reduce the end point on your transmitter for the throttle control, say limit it to 60 or 70% to reduce the speed.
Edit: what @Ben689908 and @Howard said
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• #2539
This gets interesting when u run more than one car off the same transmitter.
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• #2540
Profiles....
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• #2541
Only if the transmitter accommodates.
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• #2542
Seeing as you asked. :-)
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• #2543
Such a cool chassis!
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• #2544
Having issues assembling some oil shocks, has these metal E clips that are a fucker to attach.
Any pro strats I am missing? -
• #2545
Tamiya?
The e-clips are a bastard.
Use needle-nose pliers and with the first one, my only advice is to squeeze against the complete half to slowly “drift” the clip onto the shaft. The secret is keeping it perpendicular to the shaft. Other angles result in a lengthy search for the absconded clip.
With the first one installed and the piston in place, you can use that assembly on which to rest the second clip to keep it perpendicular.
There are e-clip pliers, but they’re a bit unnecessary.
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• #2546
Fitting e clips inside a large clear plastic bag is a trick I learnt for particularly tricky assemblies.
It doesn't help at all until the clip springs off, then it's fantastic! -
• #2547
I've already "lost" a couple of clips, found them under my keyboard a few days later (when I wasn't building)
Hoping I have everything still, otherwise I'll be badgering my local hobby shop for some spares (if I have a local hobby shop...)
Edit: thanks for the tips!
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• #2548
Ugh, I built a TD4 and got most of the way through painting it then put it down on the floor in the office and never touched it again.
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• #2549
Super Avante?
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• #2550
Yeah. Mojo just went off a cliff with it. Put XV01 diffs, Hi-caps and the metal transfer gears in it too. Ho hum. FWIW, my DB01 and 201 haven't been used in a year, either.
Diff and axle assemblies coming together.
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