Does anyone know anything about gardening?

I just upload everything to directupload.net

As @c00ps says, digging the turf out would be highly preferable to using weedkiller.

Once you're back to bare earth, you should be able to loosen it all with a garden fork, then rake it to an approximate level. Leave it for a few weeks, then turn it all over again, and level again. Repeat this process until the autumn and you'll end up with a very level, very fine layer of soil, which will be ideal for laying grass seed.

This method is going to be pretty time-consuming, but potentially very rewarding.

I'm a total lawn bore, so I'm probably recommending a process that's a bit more involved than strictly necessary.

I would also add , keeping the old turf by laying it upside down and it will turn into some nice loam soil which you can use later

Indeed. Theoretically @Quincy may not even need to remove the existing turf completely; instead, he could just tear it all up into chunks (as small as possible) with a spade and garden fork, rake it approximately flat and keep repeating this process until the autumn. Would probably avoid having to buy any topsoil, but breaking down the existing turf will be harder work than breaking down bare earth.

Would probably avoid having to buy any topsoil, and keep him busy for the rest of the year

fixed

If you stack the turf grass side down it will rot down itself you don’t need to do anything

Just hire a 14hp rotavator, rotavate the whole lot into a fine tilth (existing grass n'all) and seed in autumn. Rake level, roll, rake, repeat. Seed at 1/5 density recommend on the box, that's plenty. The rotavator will cost about £80.

Have a couple of butternut squash plants that are growing rapidly. Started to encourage them round in a sort of anti-clockwise oval shape - is it ok for them to lap each other close by as they go round or should they spiral out more to keep the stems separate? Should the growing end be trimmed to go bushy, or conversely should side shoots be trimmed to keep them growing long? Leave them alone and let them grow as they like? (bit hard to see but one growing tip is bottom left, the other is top right in the photo)

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Let them grow. I tend to stop them sprawling too much and overlap them/bring them back. If you have the space let me do what they want I reckon. I've never snipped or anything like that, they will happily spread everywhere on their own.

I do put large broken pots/shredded paper/straw etc under the squash as they grow to protect them.

Not sure whether this should go in the DIY or gardening thread, but I need to dig some holes for fence posts.
Should I buy one of these:

Or one of these:

Or is there maybe another option that I've not found?
My soil is clay if that makes a difference.
I'm thinking of buying rather than hiring as I have three jobs to do with it but they're not all happening at the same time.
Thanks

Having dug hundreds of holes in clay over the last couple of years... the bet answer is a digger!

But given the choice of those two I would go with the spoons (top ones), alongside a strong steel spiked bar to smash into the ground.

Manual augers will tend to get stuck in clay, and even powered ones will jump around too much. Sadly in thick clay there is no way to easily do it, I have to dig 60 holes soon for decking, not looking forward to it!

I rely upon the auger and a decent quality border spade
for turning the round hole made by the auger into the square-ish hole required by the fence post and stabilising post-mix.
The auger works well in London Clay,
as long as you remember to no try to take too much at a time,
just 2 360 degree revolutions then withdraw and clean.
Any more and it is pretty heavy and you have more friction/suction (if damp).
There is something very satisfying about removing the 2inch thick 'pancakes' of clay.

Other options?
You may be lucky and find your DIY store/toolstore/hardware store has some 'instant holes' on the shelf next to the inverse shims.

One vote for each. Anyone want to cast the deciding vote?
I'll go and see what the screwfix near me has in stock.

I'd try the auger - Shropshire clay is heavy enough to bend a cheap (i.e. my) post hole spade (blades not hefty enough for the leverage afforded by long handles) but an auger can be used to take a smaller amount at a time, remove and clean as soon as it gets hard work. Just remember clay is not like wood or loose soil - the 'shavings' will re-form behind the bit!

I got one of the top ones in the end (the scoop one).
Just £20 in Wickes but feels very hefty. Did the job perfectly but my shoulders are killing me. Damn cyclists upper body.

First cucamelon

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Amazing! What are they like?

A sort of citrusy cucumber

I've been doing fences for 30+ years. I use a graft.
https://www.e-hardware.co.uk/6080090-sitemate-ultimate-fencers-graft.html?gclid=EAIaIQobChMI5v31gbra4wIVBrDtCh1cygHwEAQYAyABEgKDv_D_BwE
I bought mine from my local fencing place. They're not cheap but they last forever and hard as fuck.

And this is what I use, 18"x 6" blade gives a perfect hole for 4" posts, about £30 and a good 15 years old, digs hundreds of holes every year. Simply grovel on knees and grab out spoil by hand. For more than 30 holes, hire a 2 man motorised post borer!

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Fencing implement porn. Show us your steel breaking bar....

You'll have to hold your breath until Wednesday when I get back to that job. I am not overly proud of that sleeper wall, but it is what the client wanted, having rejected proper railway sleepers which last forever (after we had carried 12 up 30 steps, and consequently back down again).

How are those sleepers attached to the post?
I'm planning on building a small (3 high) wall with old railway sleepers.

I use a cheap Wickes version.

They're really good, and useful for more than just fence post holes - I put mine to work digging out a few yards of bamboo.

My neighbour has had mine all week doing exactly that.