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• #77
So I'm in good company. I do not however have an espresso machine as nice as yours:
I've got the Gaggia version of this machine [La Pavoni Professional] functionally identical, different styling.
Anyway- these are really great machines.
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• #78
Are those little Ritchey torque wrenches any good:
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/like/181504695318?limghlpsr=true&hlpv=2&ops=true&viphx=1&hlpht=true&lpid=108&device=c&adtype=pla&crdt=0&ff3=1&ff11=ICEP3.0.0-L&ff12=67&ff13=80&ff14=108I was thinking of grabbing one or two for use when traveling. I've not had any issues yet but there's always a first time, right?
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• #79
I've had one for ages, works great so no crushed crabon seatposts yet.
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• #80
Be a little bit careful with them. I snapped some Ti bolts in a stem with the Ritchey torque key - When it clicked it sheared the bolt. I have read that they actually rate anywhere from 4Nm to 6Nm.
You can tell when things are getting tight and it's about to click though. Good enough for travel. And just use SS bolts... -
• #81
In a bout of curiosity I bought one of these.
It seems to work.
Anyone have access to a calibrating rig? I'd be interested to see how accurate it is. Manu claims within 4pc.
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• #82
^28Nm a bit high for most bike parts though right?!
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• #83
yep - I have a beam wrench for the small bits. There's a few parts I have that require larger torques, and I don't exclusively work in bikes.
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• #84
Looking at the small Norbar torque wrenches. Is there any advantage to getting the 3/8 or 1/4 fitting version? Does it just depend what bits you have to use it with? I have none at the mo, so which to go for?
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/231158175975
or
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• #85
I'd go for the 3/8" one. It's easy to use adaptors to fit smaller sized tool bits on the end, and unlike with cars clearance is very rarely an issue when working on bikes.
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• #86
Ah ok. I guess it doesn't make much difference, as you'll always have to use a bit holder anyway right?
I went for the PB Swiss C6-210 hex bit set, which includes: 1.27, 1.5, 2, 2.5, 3, 4, 5, 6, 8, 10mm. Same price importing from Germany as the Park SBS1 bit set is here, but should be better quality.
![](http://i.ebayimg.com/00/s/NzcxWDE2MDA=/z/~uIAAMXQ83xSE3ef/$(KGrHqV,!q8FIPVqrQtIBSE3efDVuQ~~60_57.JPG)
I guess with this: http://www.amazon.co.uk/Draper-31999-Hexagon-Screwdriver-Holding/dp/B006T2T7RU + the Norbar 13640, should be a pretty solid combo.
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• #87
You don't always have to use a bit holder - I rather like hex keys which bolt directly onto the square ratchet drive, like these.
I just use Clarke hex bits which I get from Machine Mart when they have one of their VAT free days, or Bergen bits which I've bought from autojumbles. Never had a problem with them.
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• #88
Oh yep I see. I've ordered the ones above now, so we'll see how they go. I like their allen keys so thought these might be good too. With carbon parts on the bike now I'm a bit paranoid about adjusting things without a torque wrench. Will be a useful addition. Thanks for the pointers.
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• #89
I have the Norbar 13285 TTi20 1/4in drive 1-20nm. No crushed carbon yet.
I picked up a set of bergen bits and they're ok. A bit cheap, so I'm not expecting much. One of them has a manufacturing defect and is a bit twisted.
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• #90
Got the Norbar and it looks awesome. Loving the calibration certificate it comes with. If the numbers are correct, it seems very accurate compared to the Min and Max acceptable limits. Just a Q for those that have the small Norbars: Even though the rotating display in the window reads "0-9", does it actually mean "0.0 - 0.9"? So 1 full 360 degree turn = 1Nm increase / decrease? That would make sense.
The PB Swiss bit set and Draper bit holder arrived today, so this is the set-up:
Norbar 13640 3/8" wrench - £69.95 from Amazon
PB Swiss C6-210 hex bit set - £26 on eBay, imported from Germany
Draper 31999 3/8" to 1/4" hex bit holder - £3.90 from Amazon
£99.85 total for a top-quality set up. Happy.The Park Torque wrench is £80, and the Park bit set £32 = £112 total, so definitely seems you're paying more for the name, and a cycle-specific brand, of lower quality.
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• #91
Bought a sealey and it was total garbage
I started using it and thought it was taking far too long to click. So I stopped. I tested it on a bolt i didnt care about and it did click. I then went back to my carbon and went, click never came and the seatpost cracked.
Left it unused for a few months and then tried it again on my steel beater, perhaps I used it wrong or did something stupid? Nope, click never came and bang, seatpost bolt completely snapped and flew across the room.
0/10 - would rate myself as torquing to a higher accuracy.
need a torque wrench but pretty put off by them at the moment, maybe a norbar will be better?
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• #92
Norbar wrenches are expensive but worth it.
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• #93
okay so I have acquired as I needed it rather urgently. Can someone please explain what the window number refers to? There is a scale from 1-20 and then a window that as you wind it up goes from 0-9 round and round.
When it is lined up to 1 on the 1-20 scale the window number is on 9. It would make sense to me if the number in the window was on 0.
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• #94
0-.9 are the .1 increments
So you can torque 5.5 Nm
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• #95
I guessed that, so why when the line is lined up with 4 for example does it read 4.9 (guessing 3.9)?
I know, 3.9 or 4 or 4.1nm doesnt make any real difference but its not the point
Buy expensive torque wrench calibrated to within 2% accuracy but immediately lose a % of accuracy because you are torquing between a range of .3nm because the two scales dont match up visually.
Is anyone elses the same?
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• #96
My Norbar lines up spot on. I'd return it as faulty, if its not too much hassle. It's not just the viewing angle through the main window is it?
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• #97
its actually between 8&9
ffs
looks like i will have to return it. Will have to do it after my trip.
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• #99
Reviving a dead thread: are we still recommending Norbar, or has something better come along since?
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• #100
I have the same question. Anyone able to recommend one?
Sounds like the very two that I have- they are very good.
They have not stopped me from breaking stuff, however- including a number of 3T LTD seatposts.
Be careful!