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It aint much but I decided a while ago to see how cheap I could put one together for and ended up with this finished around the 50eur mark
Mostly a 105 group but with some early Dura Ace wheels, only really works in friction mode but it runs lovely. 'Course it ought to have pursuit bars but I only came across a cheap pair after I'd put it together as it is.
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what is all this Faux Pro jargon,
A lo-pro uses pursuit bars and (usually, but not necessarily) a sloping top tube and/or small front wheel to replicate the hand position of riding on the drops of a normal road/track bike
A faux pro uses pursuit bars and a sloping top tube to replicate the hand position of riding on the brake hoods of a normal road bike. Since the sloping top tube is rendered completely unnecessary since about 1985 by the availability of long seat posts, it is purely a hipster affectation (see Cinelli Mash)
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as I understand it, a ''Faux'' lo pro has a sloping tt with two 700c wheels, or/and, its a lo pro with 600/650c front wheel but the low profile aspect is erased by adding riserbars.
not really...
this is 700/700 and is a 'proper' lo pro in the sense that it replicates drop position.
faux-pro or bro-pro is a hipster bike, sloping toptube, but no reason for it.
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A faux pro uses pursuit bars and a sloping top tube to replicate the hand position of riding on the brake hoods of a normal road bike. Since** the sloping top tube is rendered completely unnecessary since about 1985 by the availability of long seat posts**, it is purely a hipster affectation (see Cinelli Mash)
what? so if I wanted a lo pro ride again I should get a 58 square frame with 30cm of post?
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If that's what fits, yes. When Long posts became widely available after the first mountain bike boom, there was a frame design called 'Micro' (at least that's what Brian Rourke called it) which had a horizontal top tube, long post and pursuit bars. Obviously small riders still needed the small front wheel but as we've seen some taller people can use 700/700 without needing weird stem arrangements.
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but surely a 64cm frame with sloping toptube and only 24cm of post *looks better
*
also longer seatstays etc.... -
*looks better
*Hipster :-)
The 'Micro' design works better, for the same reasons that road frames have top tubes sloping the other way these days.
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i have posted this in another thread, but maybe someone on this thread can help......just picked these freecycle forks from Jono Marshall, very nice guy.
anyone know if its 650c or 24" fork? can anyone tell me what would the length of the fork blades be for 650c? it measures 29.5cm from the top of fork blade to top of the drop-out. any clues? i have searched in vain.
the lo-pro for what i hope to find the correct forks for.....
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it measures 29.5cm from the top of fork blade to top of the drop-out.
You won't get a 650c in there, the ETRTO size is 571, so adding a 650x23c tyre makes a rolling radius of about 310mm, you need something like 330-350mm axle to crown, depending on the crown depth. The fork you have is probably for 600c/24"
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thanks, tester......this frame is taking it's time to get built..... one step forward, one step back.
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You could try some Nitto RB010s? They have only a very slight drop, should provide a better position for bulls.
The risers are Nitto RB026AA , real nice shape and good width. I like risers for cruising about, but will be getting some of those nitto bulls at some point to alternate between.
Can't brake, won't brake....
O'Shane
ArbenZ
Natal
B0N0R
Ordinata
Tychom
user19245
BugBrave
gbj_tester
ObiWomKenobi
Vesalius
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Lo Pros, Represent
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@jambon
spinny gear>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>