Functional bikes. Not Porn not Anti

But it is an ahead.

The only thing I am not keen on is metal mudguards. They are never really worth the weight not matter how much retro fetishists protest.

Steel mudguard is the best choice for a bulletproof set-up, they're not heavy as you make it out to be.

Mine have been dented, crashed, run over, and general wear and tear, but still maintain it shape brilliantly, also those mudguard are great for supporting a rack, also allowed the rain to drain off on both side to the end with it's little groove - a very useful feature to prevent it from dripping directly into the drivetrain, another factor is the dynamo lighting, a much more robust set-up than a plastic mudguard.

Frankly, metal mudguard are underrated, it's the alu one that are a nightmare to fit and adjust.

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I have road bb7's on my bike, worked like turnips against wheelrims when using sora drop levers.

Horrible combination, it's either too grabby or too spongy with the Sora.)

I wish I could have got it just a little bit "grabby", they just wouldnt bite at all. It was like someone put oil on the discs.

Spotter you big. fucking. reposter.

sorry ed

hangs head in shame

But +1 on the medal mudguards, they are a much better long term option that plastic ones, which always degrade after time and get snappy

Plastic ones always degrade after time and get snappy

That they do, everytime I approach mine, it kept trying to bite me.

doors this way ed

Just looked at the price of nice metal mudguards. Now tempted to make my own.

£40 isn't much compare to the SKS one at £35.

edit; just notice it's £60, my bad.

Actually it's £40;

http://www.sjscycles.co.uk/gilles-berthoud-gilles-berthoud-700c-stainless-steel-mudguards-short-prod18776/

A lot of money on something I could waste a weekend having fun making.

That Feather is awesome. More for porn than this thread tho.

Just one question:

Why route the brake cable like that? As in why not have the seatstay entry point on the outside side so the line of the cable could run in a more natural line .... sort of as a standard road calliper would.

A lot of money on something I could waste a weekend having fun making.

what price would you think be idea for a full mudguard set?

That Feather is awesome. More for porn than this thread tho.

Just one question:

Why route the brake cable like that? As in why not have the seatstay entry point on the outside side so the line of the cable could run in a more natural line .... sort of as a standard road calliper would.

Asthetics?

The cable is more hidden this way.

I'm pretty sure that those are aluminum, which, though I haven't weighed them, seem lighter than plastic. I have Honjos, Berthoud, SKS and Planet Bike fenders.

You're right, they are alu, but I'm not sure which they are, Honjos or Velo Orange.

what outer brake cable is that ?

what outer brake cable is that ?

Goodridge I believe.

I have some Berthounds' sitting in my room at the moment waiting to go onto my Raleigh. Just waiting for my new bars and some better bar ends than the brooks one to come before I can get started on it.

I have mountain BB7s with Cane Creek V-Brake levers on my touring bike, they work fine together.

what outer brake cable is that ?

I think they are velo orange available from Freshtripe

http://freshtripe.co.uk/Freshtripe/Brakes%20&%20Levers_files/VO%20Braided%20Cable-1.jpg

I have mountain BB7s with Cane Creek V-Brake levers on my touring bike, they work fine together.

Its was the combination of road levers & BB7's that was being disputed.

Yeah, I was just suggesting an alternative that does work....

I'm sure you can get long pull drop levers??? Or do they not do 'nice' ones, only seen low end ones

it's more to do with the Sora shifter performing terribly with the disc brake. mine, DFP, and other Sora equipped bike perform the same.

With decent levers, like Tiagra, SRAM, etc. it work pretty well, even better with Travel Agent.

In fact Sora's still spongy with Travel Agent.

What's the deal with readers wives in this thread?
This is my winter commuter: Ratty old touring frame, marathon plus atb tyres on 26" rims, with full full fenders (had to cut the front one, because there was no clearance, and there's going to be some kind of front rack soon), cantilever brakes, single chainring with 7 gears on the back (there's going to be a downtube shifter). Not finished properly yet, need to move the brake levers down and find a decent set of racks.
Although 26" wheels and drop bars is a strange combination, it rides really nicely. All for less than $200 too!

It's not Functional 'till it's finished!

;-)

Great fun though.

Is the frame designed for 26" and did you have any problems setting up the canti's for that size rim?