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• #5302
At this time of year I'd be looking at clearance offers.
http://www.evanscycles.com/products/fuji/altamira-25-c-2013-road-bike-ec041888#features
If you come in at around £1k you could get a Stages PM, or a Powertap as well. Depending on where you want the powermeter.
Saying that. I sacked off plans to build a fast training bike. To fund a powermeter on the BMC. In terms of training benefit. I bet a proper wet weather road bike (as opposed to a steel fixie with clip on guards), would be loads better. Having a powermeter on the pampered bike is more fun though.
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• #5303
Is it solely a training bike? if so, using some of the money to upgrade the beaten Ribble would be a better choice IMHO and save the money for the fair weather bike.
Different wheelset (hand-build Hope laced to A319/Archetype etc.), upgrade shifter etc. full service can bring a tired Ribble into how it used to be when you first got it.
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• #5304
Sounds dull Ed.
Powermeter.
What cranks do you have on the bike you want the powermeter for Sainsburys?
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• #5305
second hand CAAD10 and powertap.
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• #5306
Depends.
If you want the option of being able to swap around wheels on the nice bike, and still have power. Then you want crank/pedal based metering.
If you want a powermeter you can swap between nice and training bike. The powertap seems the better option.
You can get a CAAD10 for £1k new. That leaves £500 for a powertap hub, a stages, or almost a power2max. Assuming the bits replaced by the powermeter are sold (ie crankset if buying P2M).
http://www.drakescycles.co.uk/m1b100s6p4131/CANNONDALE_SuperSix_Tiagra_Compact_2013/RS_GB/17315
http://www.drakescycles.co.uk/m1b100s6p4145/CANNONDALE_CAAD10_5_105_Compact_2013/RS_GB/17405
http://www.evanscycles.com/categories/training-energy/power-meters
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• #5307
It's just a hub. You can still very easily build a pair of sub 1500g wheels on a PT hub without spending much money at all.
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• #5308
It's just a hub. You can still very easily build a pair of sub 1500g wheels on a PT hub without spending much money at all.
My point is. That you may fancy having several wheelsets for the same bike, or you may fancy having several bikes that you can swap wheelsets between. This impacts where you want the powermeter.
I'd like a cheapish pair of training wheels for the BMC. But I still want power measurement when using my training wheels. So I went with crank based.
In terms of weight penalty. Pretty much all the powermeters work out the same as near as has any meaning (Stages is a lighter option). Most are very accurate, and reliable. It really is just a question of where you want the meter based, and budget.
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• #5309
long fast training rides?
Training rides = use shit bike if you care about good bike.
I'd be spending £1500 quid on a holiday and a service for the ribble once winter is up. It's either a shit bike or not. And if it's not then don't ride it in the salt and rain. If it's shit ride it in the salt and rain.
Simples. -
• #5310
Or build a winter bike that's got almost no ferrous parts.
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• #5311
Di2 belt drive hydraulic disc road bike?
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• #5312
Any opinions on the Cannondale Synapse Disc 5 105 2014? I had been considering cx bikes for all weather commuters but recently saw this
http://www.carytownbikes.com/blogs/carytown-bicycle-co/8243697-synapse-alloy-105-not-the-uncool-uncle-it-once-was -
• #5313
They're decent and the brakes are surprisingly good, not much tyres clearance despite that thought.
If they feel like crap - get the bike shop to sort out the brakes again.
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• #5314
classic lfgss - someone asks a simple question and everyone answers in their own image. Ed just asked what is a decent bike for £1,500!
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• #5315
Ed, buy a Canyon. They are ace.
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• #5316
That's the nature of any group, no?
I think Ed should service his Ribble and buy a powermeter for it- Rotor 3D+ P2M would be my choice for maximum flexibility in terms of moving it from frame to frame.
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• #5317
surely buy the ti colnago that's in classifieds :P
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• #5318
To put this in perspective, Ive had my ribble (its the most basic 7005 alu version) for 7 years and whilst I've used a fixie for commuting for most of that time its never had more than a clean down and regrease, its still got the same wheels chain cassette etc, the headset is is broken and is held in place by the stem which has fused to the steerer so can't be replaced, its tatty and doesn't fit very well.
My "race" bike is a trek equinox with 105 and twin hed 3s (I'm a slevless)
If I was to get a pwer meter it would probably be the garmin vector, as I can get it at US trade price through a friend. I'd want to be able to change bikes and wheels fairly easily so the pedal based-ness of the garmin appeals.
If its pissing with rain I usually go for a long run instead of riding, so it won't be used in the worst of weather, although if there are showers then it will be used. I've always viewed bikes as there to be ridden when it suits me, so I really wouldn't be precious, the reason I don't like riding in pissing rain is that I get cold and miserable on a bike whereas I just get miserable when running.
I have a bike fit which I need to book in the next couple of weeks to help me get a better idea of what size I actually need, and I fancy some ok-ish carbon for comfort rather than more harsh alu.
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• #5319
Contact points and tyres make more difference than frame material to comfort.
I've ridden some very harsh carbon and some very comfortable alu. My alu Canyon was one of the most comfortable bikes I've owned - handled the cobbles of Flanders last year almost as well as my s-works the year before. -
• #5320
canyons have comfy seatposts
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• #5321
Mine had a cheapo carbon Condor one
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• #5322
You may be able to pick up a bargain with Ui2 close to that price from the outlet store:
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• #5323
canyons have comfy seatposts
euph?
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• #5324
Oh and also if anyone wants a shit old ribble it'll be for sale on here for very cheap....
Ribble size 52, which I think is a 56 seat tube and 52 top tube.
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• #5325
I don't think that's the correct measurement, are you certain?
Ribble and power meter since we are in the winters.