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• #27
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• #28
^ Good point
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• #29
I had no idea I'd get this much interest. There is definitely something here if it's striking up a discussion to much more extent than I expected.
Your chopped bars are probably aluminum fillet brazing them will be a diffrent matter. I don't know if you'd use bass still as the filler metal, I suspect not.
They're steel, so shouldn't be a problem.
I actually think this is quite a good idea. It would do (for hand positions) exactly what road handlebars + hoods do, but without superfluous brake levers or those fucking shite dummy stumps suggested above.
I would however add that the CAD illustration given does not look like it has enough room for the fore finger underneath the horn when using the bullhorn/hoods position. I think it needs some careful thought to make it a useful, elegant idea.
No, that's a solution. Bike Destroyer is looking to try something new.
Cheers, I'm glad people can see where I'm coming from and that I'm trying to find something new/different/a solution to a problem I have found for myself.
i like it
im picking up a pair of drops tomorrow
so i might use my old ones (and my schools tech lab)
and try this out
i really like the ideaYou'll need two pairs of steel bars. The first pair you cut to get enough bar for the horns, but then you need the second pair because the first pair don't leave you with enough drop.
why not stick some oldschool mtb-bar ends on the end of the bullhorns pointing down?
like these perhaps?
That does sound like a quick easy way to try the method. Problem being that you're not likely to find a pair of mtb bar ends the right shape to work as drops.
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• #30
I have to share this one important fact, and don't take this the wrong way, cos i'd love this design of bars myself, how will you slide your brakes on ? i.e on the the flats of the bars ?
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• #31
wouldn't it be better if someone designed a proper hood kinda thing to clamp on to drop bars ?
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• #32
Not unless you want the drops facing sideways, or only being about 10" apart if you could even get them to the flat of the bullhorn.
^ Good point
To solve the drops being too close together, perhaps a straight bar, clip on drops and bar ends?
2 Attachments
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• #33
I have to share this one important fact, and don't take this the wrong way, cos i'd love this design of bars myself, how will you slide your brakes on ? i.e on the the flats of the bars ?
ooh, hasn't realise that, a serious limitation of brake levers (only the like of those clamp-on one).
this should've been quite obvious enough from the beginning of this topic though!
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• #34
All post should be started late at night. It's obviously where all the solutions are to be found.
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• #35
ooh, hasn't realise that, a serious limitation of brake levers (only the like of those clamp-on one).
this should've been quite obvious enough from the beginning of this topic though!
I'm sure if we are redesigning the 'bars...then in true knee bone connected fashion...the brakes are next...
if you prise open the bands on some campag lever ie 90's you can then put them back together in really tight places.
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• #36
This
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• #37
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• #38
I have to share this one important fact, and don't take this the wrong way, cos i'd love this design of bars myself, how will you slide your brakes on ? i.e on the the flats of the bars ?
er.
etc etc
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• #39
I have to share this one important fact, and don't take this the wrong way, cos i'd love this design of bars myself, how will you slide your brakes on ? i.e on the the flats of the bars ?
I run cross levers, but as it's been pointed out above, any of the bmx brake levers are hinged. If I wanted to run drop levers of bullhorn levers then why would I be considering putting a join and corner right where they would attach?!
wouldn't it be better if someone designed a proper hood kinda thing to clamp on to drop bars ?
I can see your point, Dylan. It would probably make more sense to just get some kind of plastic insert that you wrap your tape over - as smallfurry suggested, but something specifically designed. I was trying to design something new and push the boundaries without just using what is currently available or close to being available. Although, again, designing a set of 'nubbins' to go on the bars for comfort might actually be sale-able within the fixed market, but much, much cheaper to produce and more people would be willing to try them as they'd be removable.
To solve the drops being too close together, perhaps a straight bar, clip on drops and bar ends?
Not entirely sure you're on the same page as us here. If you wanted wider bars then you could just pick a pair of drops that are46cm wide or something, but you couldn't use bar ends as you's still only have horns then. If we're going to weld/braze sections on to the bars then I could just start with some straight bars and put 2 extra pieces on either side to get the size/shape I want.
All post should be started late at night. It's obviously where all the solutions are to be found.
I concur! Beer also often helps.
er.
Cheers Josh!
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• #40
Well if you think about how you sit your hands when you're on the hoods then that would be similar to how it'd be with the drop bit of the bar.
Going back to the 'nubbin' idea. You'd need quite an amount of material in order to get the shape that I'm currently comfortable. Look at the difference between drop and horn
Ideas?
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• #41
I like this idea. Love the bullhorns that I have as they are comfy, Use a goldfinger right hand brake for the front. It's a good set up. But it would be nice to have drops in instances like when going in to a headwind and needing to get low.
Have a feeling that normal drops with just a sort of fake rubber hood would work as described above. Or if you want to go more extreme, cutting a few inches of tubing and welding them onto the top of a set of drops at a slight angle to create the risers.
aesthetically your initial design is quite pleasing though.
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• #42
compact drops with hoods?
i think alot of non compact people are going for these cause they have smallish frames or want to use the drops more often or for longer. -
• #43
Both valid points. I guess what I'm trying to recreate here (without initially realising it!) is drops with hoods to sit in. The idea of welding on some fake horn/hood shapes could work but I think a clamp on fake hood would be far easier to produce, i.e. just take a set of brakes I like and take the lever section off.
I think the big problem with both of these options is that they look 'wrong' and possibly not the most attractive to a lot of people.
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• #44
I think the big problem with both of these options is that they look 'wrong' and possibly not the most attractive to a lot of people.
The biggest irony ever, people see low-pro with riser 'right' but drop bar with brake hoods 'wrong' if there's no brakes connected to it.
sod it and forget about what other people think, you'll be safe in the knowledge that the fixie skidder with his saddle set too high and handlebar too narrow scoffing when he skidded past you is nowhere near as comfortable as you are on your bike.
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• #45
you'll be safe in the knowledge that the fixie skidder with his saddle set too high and handlebar too narrow scoffing when he skidded past you is nowhere near as comfortable as you are on your bike.
Couldn't agree more!
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• #46
Cheers Ed. Oh, and when do you want your seat back?! Sorry I didn't stop the other day, was off to meet a friend.
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• #47
I'm not sure of the point though? If you're using bullhorns you could use drops. If you're using drop bars you could just hold the tops (nearside of levers) for the same effect.
the best solution is to just add some old brake hoods on a drop bar.
I actually think this is quite a good idea. It would do (for hand positions) exactly what road handlebars + hoods do, but without superfluous brake levers or those fucking shite dummy stumps suggested above.
Well, wouldn't it be just the ticket for some brakless fixie-biker who wanted the best of both worlds? ;)
Sadly, it would never be allowed on the track for those people who would rather be on the tops than on the drops, he, he.
Perhaps Bike Destroyer should now change his forum name to 'Bike Designer'? Although he might benefit from an apprenticeship with scraggie borsha first. :)
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• #48
Well thanks Oliver, glad to see someone is coming round to my way of thinking. Which Scott do you mean? The only Scott that I know is scott not scot and I thought he was mainly textiles based? Please do correct me if I'm wrong.
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• #49
Oh he's also that scraggy bloke.
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• #50
Oh right.
I don't get people having more than one profile on lfgss. I find it hard enough keeping up with one!
could work, and for the sake of the experiment be easier (and possibly safer).