To all you sewing lot...

my question about which thread to buy was non-serious, by the way :)

i don't think my wife is the kind of person who lusts after new and better gear, so perhaps this whole idea isn't the greatest.

Have you considered getting her a gift certificate for a sewing class?

I'd have loved it if my partner had shelled out for my machine ha.
-If you do go for it, doing it via an IOU then she can pick one might be a better option? Most places do machines on 0% credit if that makes a difference.

Janome 725s is a popular machine, (it says beginner, but they mean it's easy to pick up and use). Needle threader, adjustable foot pressure, 1step button hole, droppable feed dogs.

http://sewingmachinebuffs.com/why-is-my-thread-wrapping-around-the-bobbin/

Has a quite good trouble shooting guide for problems with tension, and thread tangling if you happen to see the next time it tangles.

While I'm here, I also have been looking for a sturdy machine so I can start making my own stuff. I've been reading that vintage heavy duty machines tend to be a better investment than newer ones as they will contain all-metal parts, does anybody with more experience have any thoughts on this? Have for example been looking at this Janome/New Home one which looks like a pretty good option for the money. Any thoughts appreciated! Cheers https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Heavy-Duty-New-Home-535-Electric-Domestic-sewing-Machine/174544063871

I bought a Singer Heavy Duty 4411 recently that's been working well. Have a few friends using it as well, no complaints from anyone.

I agree that an old machine is a better bet, but make sure you buy it properly serviced. I've picked up two duds that were basically completely bunged up with dried up grease.

Thanks, yeah it's hard to know what's best at this early stage but good to hear that those HD Singers have been working well for people here.

If you are buying a serviced one, from someone with a decent history, go for it. That seller you linked has a brick and mortar shop, so probably reliable.

*Although they can fuck off with their "£2 Cottons" as thats £2 for 25cm.

I was just going to say the same to @fizzy.bleach - if a decent 2nd hand 'vintage' machine might be a better bet?
I've been trying to find an article I read in the spring about this with recommended models, what to look for etc, but I can't find it (apologies).
This person has a pretty comprehensive rundown of table-top machines;
https://vintagesewingmachinesblog.wordpress.com/2017/10/04/why-i-dont-keep-post-1975-machines/

She also has manuals, if you do encounter machines with problems - these machines were designed to be taken apart, serviced, and a spares are usually available. Thanks to YouTube vids and manual, I was able to take apart my 50 yr old Pfaff industrial over the summer (and put it back together). It was refreshing to to work on quality components, and relatively straight forward.

I use a 1950s Singer 201k, it’s all metal, basic forward and backwards with adjustable stitch length but makes perfect and consistent stitches and will go through thick leather and canvas no problem.

It’s like an old Swiss watch. Never wanted for any thing newer. The quality of build is outstanding

Which is all well and good for bags and the alike, but @fizzy.bleach 's wife is likely to need stretch stitches, buttonholes and any other stitch that a modern machine is capable of.

I had one from the late 40s and found it to be lacking when it came to really heavy stuff. I don't sew very often but usually require heavier thread and needles than those machines can run, a Juki DDL 8700H does the trick for me.

Which is also not appropriate for above since it just has forward and reverse.

I agree.

Besides, a lot of vintage machines can tolerate using heavier threads and thicker materials but they weren’t designed for it. I find the fashion of saying “semi industrial” on ebay listings quite annoying.

Very few machines are actually medium duty let alone heavy duty.

. Duplicate

First attempt at a prototype overshoe. Need to source some strong elastic for an undersling(?).

Brushed three layer softshell, with cordura forefoot on the bottom.

For the other foot going to try the nopinz method of overshoe on before the shoe to get rid of velcro.

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Got a lovely Janome/New Home in the end – just arrived, excited to get to grips with it. Thanks everyone for their machine advice. Can I ask if there are any particularly good places people are ordering their basic supplies (threads, zips, etc) from? Would be nice to go to an actual haberdashery at some point too if there are any in south London that people would recommend. Cheers

Charity shops nearly always have loads of zips and buttons.

https://www.adventurexpert.com/product/micro-sewable-d-ring/

Does anyone have experience with sewable plastic bits like this? Will my domestic sewing machine get through them? Any examples of them in use?

I'm trying to make a bag similar to the Carradice zipped roll but thinking of replacing the poppers with magnets. Any idea where I can get weak magnets (pref in a shape that can be somehow attached to fabric but willing to make do). I think neodymium magnets might be too strong to easily pop open one handed...?

Magnets are usually sewn in, like captured. Just find a robust but fairly thin material and make a pocket. I wouldn’t go too weak on the magnets.

Ok sounds like a good plan. I was going to use magnetic handbag clasps but they're really chunky!

I like the zipped roll but feel the two clasps are a little overkill since the zipper is the thing that keeps everything inside and the flap is just meant to keep the wind and rain out. I would maybe take the flap to a shallow point and just use one magnet set.

How about fidlock buckles?

Although functional, I find them quite ugly. The bigger problem though IMO is that they work best using two hands. A magnet is much less hassle.

The last bag I made used a fidlock snap buckle which just slides apart with two fingers. Just a plain square buckle

Is it essential to have the same type of thread on the spool and bobbin?

I have a thicker one on top, presumably the join will only be as strong as the weaker one underneath, but apart from that it should still work, right?