Dynamo Lights

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  • E3 triple

    isnt this light for MTB?

  • Nice match but with delux you have to be absolutely flying to charge anything, it’s definitely not reliable enough.

    The 28 is hardly heavy and when actually rising there is next to no resistance; i would always buy one of these.

    Son have a good write up on the differences on their site

  • Kinda, its twice as bright as the E3 pro 2, which is the German road legal one....

    I was planning to angle it down somewhat. Anyone have real world experience between the two?

  • ^^ thanks i'll have a look

  • i use E3 triple on road mounted on handlebar; its fucking bright but the beam is wide not long (if that makes sense).

    I havent ridden it yet on unlit lanes. I bought it mainly because it was cheap and in horrid green colour that I liked.

  • Be good to hear once you've used it.
    I'd probably take either if one came up second hand. It's an expensive swap over!

  • Did some stealth wiring for the rear light today. My old mudguards had a build in channel for the wire but the new ones are metal so I hid the wire in the rolled edge and squeezed it in a few places.


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  • I've got an E3 triple on my ultracycling bike. I find it excellent for road use.

  • Don’t suppose you have used or own a Exposure Diablo? That’s what I currently run. They seem similar to my limited understanding.

  • Mounting dyno light b+m to a front rack vertical leg, love these pannier mounting stays for solid ness. But requires the tube its going over to be accessible, isn't because welded at both ends. Remember older surly racks used to have a similar type of clamp but was open ended (like a crows foot wrench) so that it could go on tubes like this.
    Trying to avoid p clip as slip too easily


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  • Don’t suppose you have used or own a Exposure Diablo?

    I don't, no. I've got a couple of Exposure Strada SLs, but not a Diablo.

  • Solution found. Part of a mangled canti brake, cut a slot where the brake pad post used to go, clamped from the outside, then a small very thin stainless extension to clear the rack, give some vibration resistance for the clamp to avoid it shaking the cut up canti part from coming loose.
    Dropping bike from 2' doesn't make it come off so probably alright.


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  • B+M Cyo N+ (not sensing) front light, shimano XT 6w3w hub, Supernova E3 rear light.

    Rear light doesn't have its own capacitor for stand light cabability, but front light does have one for the front light, but not for the rear light? Do B+M rear lights have their own cap, or can I rewire the B+M Cyo internally to give stand light to the rear as well. Or is there some plug and play 'add a capacitor' solution thats really obvious that I'm not thinking about?

  • I think Supernova lights only work with other Supernova lights; unlike most other dyno lights, their front lights also have the driver circuit (incl. standlight) for the rear. The easiest option is probably just to get a B+M rear light; their toplight line small is minimalist and bright with a standlight, and is available pretty cheaply, though if you're not rack-mounting it, you may need an support bracket.

  • A caveat to 'Supernova lights only work with other Supernova lights' is that you can use any 6V e-bike rear lights with a Supernova front light. I also run a B&M toplight line small with an E3 front light and it works fine, so most normal rear dynamo lights will work with Supernova front, just not that efficiently.

  • Annoying! Have a B+M line small rear light already but didn't use it as the rear rack I've got just won't really fit very well. Trying to get F+R lights mounted as stealthy as possible 1) better protection against knocks and assholes who smashed their bike into it at stands 2) thieves who rob lights, decide to smash them up if they can't rob them.

    Will email Supernova, maybe they make a plug in super capacitor pack thing. Loathed to spend any more than already have on commuter

  • The output from your B&M front is either AC or rectified AC (I think). You should be able check this by reversing the polarity of the wires to the rear light. If it works both ways, it's AC. If it works one way, it's rectified.
    Good news if it's rectified, you can solder a capacitor across the two terminals into the rear light (polarity very important here) and it should be a rudimentary standlight in theory.

    If it's not rectified, it will be more work than it's worth to add a standlight to the rear light

  • I'd just use a b&m fwiw. Their "plus" rear light models have standlights.

  • Bugger it, ordered an E3 'pure' (the slightly less fancy one). Will bump this Cyo light onto another bike instead.
    Light pattern from the Cyo is pretty poor vs the depth of the holes in local streets, am sure I just saw magma in the last one I passed

  • Anyone got an Exposure Revo mounted on fork crown or seen it done?

  • I never got round to it, but I’d planned to have someone 3D print a bracket similar to the Isen Workshop (IIRC) one that would come round under the fork crown from the drilling at the back. Plan was to just use a bolt and a v-brake pad spacer (angle adjust) in place of the cleat

  • I’ve just been using an exposure stem plate bracket to hold the lamp upside down for the lowest possible position, which is fine when I don’t have a bar bag. I have the cables routed through a daisy chain loop on my stem bag which is actually kind of neat, and then when I want my usb charger to work properly I just pull the input cable out of the Revo and it stays conveniently nearby

  • Would you mind sharing a photo?

    I've just found this setup online, can't work out what the two mounts are though.


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  • supernova and a exposure go pro

  • Easier to just attach it straight to Supernova or similar. I can send photo in the morning.

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Dynamo Lights

Posted by Avatar for hugo7 @hugo7

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