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• #2952
minoura gamoh king jr
Looks like you could slot a hangar into the bolts where the platform meets the rack.
I'd avoid the mid fork eyelets as it won't work your axle mounted rack legs
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• #2953
What he said^
You can just use a longer bolt on the front driveside and it puts the light in perfect place.
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• #2954
Ive had the non-basket version of that rack and what I did was use a longer bolt where the legs meet the platform. I then enlarged a hole in a disc brake adapter and mounted that to the longer bolt and then the light to the adapter.
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• #2955
ah man that sucks!
how do you find the aero setup?
pic of full bike would be lovely!
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• #2956
B&M brake line rear lights. Any good? I'm just about to order a load of stuff from Spa, the brake line light is a fiver more than the non brake line one.
I thought it might be useful riding with my kids, for those rare occasions I am at the front
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• #2957
Are those the ones with an accelerometer in them? If so yes they are good and wouldn’t be without one now.
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• #2958
yep, that's them.
thanks, that's good enough for me
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• #2959
With the £5 for sure
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• #2960
I'm using toplight for over an year now. Pleased with it. They seem to be bright and I know the light does get brighter when braking. Have no clue though, in real terms, how effective it is.
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• #2961
post the whole bike!
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• #2962
The first pieces of the puzzle arrived today. Very fancy.
I'm guessing that the notchy front hub is normal for a dynamo?
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• #2963
Ooo shiny, yes notchy is normal
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• #2964
Yeah, just the magnets moving over each other, barely noticeable when you build and spin the wheel.
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• #2965
I have a dynamo hub for sale in this thread
https://www.lfgss.com/conversations/349790/
It’s a DH-3N72 built onto a 700c rim
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• #2966
Trying to find an m3 sex bolt to do this but with metal :•)
Turns out it's hard. Feels stupid to order one bolt from China.
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• #2967
sex bolt
subbed
Edit: seriously did not realise this was a thing, sounds like a cock-rock band. Conveniently this may be exactly what I need for my bike trailer bodge
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• #2968
That would be a nicer option!
I found these at home, unfortunately they're half a millimeter too big…
I'm afraid pushing it through the rack eyelet would destroy the threads.
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• #2969
Wow, so close! I would sacrifice my threads :•)
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• #2970
Is this the one you have?
https://www.sjscycles.co.uk/lighting-spares/25mm-additive-spacer-two-light-holder/
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• #2971
I'm trying to piece together a light setup for my partner's bike that is as cheap as possible and very easy to install. Currently have my eyes on an Axa 8201 dynamo.
For the backlight I plan on getting this AXA rearlight and this wire to connect that, might be a bit long but I can just loop the excess back and forth and then not have to solder?
For the headlight I was thinking this Busch + Müller Lumoteq which should come with an unspecified wire, what can I expect there? Will I need to crimp on spade connectors to that?
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• #2972
I think the B&M lights come with bare wire ends, which you can just wrap round the dynamo terminals. It's possibly marginally less reliable than soldering spades and heat shrink, but it requires little fettling, and if it ever goes you just strip a bit of the wiring back and reconnect it.
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• #2973
Does the bike have a bottle dynamo mount bracket already?
If you’re mounting it on the rear wheel you’d normally have separate wires from the dynamo to the front and back.
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• #2974
For not too much more why not get a hub dynamo??
https://www.decathlon.co.uk/wheel-28-front-dynamo-hybrid--id_8133890.html
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• #2975
Ah right, that should be fine then. Cheers!
@grams Yeah it has a mount on the fork.
@freezing77 It's a 26" bike, and that wheel is about as expensive as the bike was. It's not used for much more than a ride to the station or the city center, even a cheap dynamo setup might be overkill.
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minoura gamoh king jr