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• #1852
It’s a cable with a fairly thick outer (ca. 5mm x 3mm) with two 1mm sheathed wires inside. I stripped off the outer to route it internally.
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• #1853
Cheers, looks the job. Now need to get a dynamo hub wheel with 12mm thru and disc.
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• #1854
Perfect, thanks!
Sounds like I might have to try stripping the wire too.
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• #1855
SON do a 28 in 12mm centrelock, got them at sjscycles.co.uk!
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• #1856
So do SP. There's is 15mm but I just use a sleeve to run it on my 12mm axle.
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• #1857
Thanks for the info. What's the thoughts on the Hunt dynamo wheels for value and build? Just thinking a more convenient route that sourcing parts and finding someone to put it all together for me.
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• #1858
Extremely good value for SON
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• #1859
Good value, otherwise, buy a SON hub and wheel Build from sjs? All custom built in house!
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• #1860
My SP got very notchy after about a year. No such troubles with my Son. Difference in hub quality is night and day, so yeah, those Hunt’s are exceedingly good value.
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• #1861
Now down to $12
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• #1862
Ordered, let's see how it goes
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• #1863
Does anyone make anything that will fit to an old-skool fork leg lamp boss and take a dynamo light? With centre pulls, guards, cable hangers at the fork crown there's no space there.
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• #1864
What's the go to rear light for seat post/seatstay mounting? (Paired with a B&M Luxos U IQ2 and an SP hub). B&M Secula plus?
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• #1865
Yep
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• #1866
How about using something like a long bolt > thru lamp (they have a horizontal bore through which the supplied brackets are bolted) > spacer> lamp bracket boss. Lamp bosses are threaded, so it’s just a matter of fitting your lamp onto a bolt. Problem is the oldschool bolt will be thicker than the m5 or whatever the lamps normally use, so some judicious drilling of the lamp.
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• #1867
Yeah, lamp bosses use a weird imperial BNC thread, so getting them to go through a lamp might be a stretch; at present I'm thinking of fitting the old-skool ever-ready bracket and using the hole in that to mount the normal lamp bracket as if through the fork crown. My only worry would be it might be a bit flexy, but with everything tightened up I reckon it should be ok. Of course I need to buy a dynowheel and lamps first...
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• #1868
The imperial threading is immaterial, the lamps are bored but not threaded (so that they can be tilted to get the beam at the right level). What might be a consideration is some lamps may not have enough material around the hole to be able to increase the bore size.
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• #1869
I think the next option is to just find a 90degree twisted bit of thickish plate with holes at each end. Use the lamp boss bolt into bit of plate, and attach the lamp to the other end.
IME having lamps bouncing around on projecting things attached to other projecting things is that something will fail pretty fast.
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• #1870
oops forgot to ‘reply to’ on those^
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• #1871
Does anyone know if handlebar end rear lights are available / can be made to work with a dynamo?
I quite like bar end lights and this could prevent me needing wires all over the bike (they could stay all around the fork meaning internal wiring is easier).
Might be a daft idea but I can't see why...
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• #1872
IMO they have no benefit over normal lights. Nor do I think having bar end lights are good substitutes for a good rear light. If that is what you’re saying? Your body will at times obscure them and a good bright rear light will illuminate the road behind you. Bar end lights will not do this. Bar ends are an addition rather than a replacement IMO.
Apologies if I’ve misunderstood something there.
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• #1873
All good points - I was thinking they might be a substitute. Haven't tried them but my thinking was that it was unlikely both would be blocked at any one time, but I guess it may be possible and not really worth the risk of it happening.
Just liked the idea of a solution with minimal wiring through or around the frame to the back, and I've had issues finding space for a rear light on bikepacking trips where the seatpost is completely covered
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• #1874
Sorry.
Is the yellowed part touching the frame while steering?Did you send a draw to FBF or they suggested u something?
I have the same
Issue
1 Attachment
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• #1875
It’s difficult to give a recommendation without knowing what kind of frame you have. But yes, I have perma-mudguards so my light is mounted on there.
Do you have mudguard/rack mounts? If so, something could definitely be mounted on there. If not, mounts can be fashioned quite easily. There’ll be a way - it just depends if you care about having a cable run to the back of the frame. Even though I’m a big believer in dynamo lighting, rear lights aren’t really that necessary if it’s a pain in the arse. The very basic Cateye Omni 3 is surprisingly bright, costs under £10 and can easily be mounted to a chainstay/anywhere you like. I did the Bryan chapman a couple of years ago with one attached to each chain stay - it worked a treat. They use two triple AA batteries, which you can just keep in your frame bag or saddle pack and they last for up to 120 hours. Suffice to say, you’ll need to be travelling pretty far to deplete the batteries in a set.
With that said, if you can find somewhere to mount a dynamo light - go for it - never having to think about lighting is fantastic. B+M have the Secula which is available with a seat post, mudguard or chainstay mount. Son have one that is seat post or mudguard mounted. Not sure about Supernova.
Sorry, my spelling was way off.
https://www.instagram.com/fairbairnfabrications/