Handbuilt or Factory Wheels?

Posted on
Page
of 2
Prev
/ 2
  • You can build your own straight pull spoked wheels if you like. I cant see how that would make them stiffer though. I agree with the crowd (safest bet), build a set based on your needs and then crank up the tension some.

    I would'nt use thin spokes for this thougth as wind-up can be a real PITA. I'd recomend a profiled spoke, something like a sapim CX-ray. Purely because you can see the bastard twisting on you.

    I've attached catalogues for novatec and joytec, who do striaght pull hubs. Sourcing them is another matter.


    2 Attachments

  • waiting till 15th December for 274mm silver CX-Rays to come back into stock - sigh

  • having got 1/4 of the way through 40 factory built wheels de-stressing and truing them before we can safely release them onto the track, my vote is for decent hand built!

    some factory wheels are build very badly and fall to bits cos they never got de-stressed properly. Most people who buy a factory wheelset don't expect to have to do this!

  • For stiff wheels you must select the right parts…

    1. Rims with double eyelets take a lot of tension, for example Mavic Open Pro
    2. Double buttedspokes can be better tensioned, DT Swiss Competition** **
    3. High flange hubs make a stiffer wheel, example Miche Track Hub High Flange

    Put them all together and tight them properly and you will get what you want.

    1. Rims with double eyelets take a lot of tension, for example Mavic Open Pro.

    Good point.

    Most people stiff = deep profile.
    But a lot of deep profile rims dont have eyelets.

  • he's right.
    with non-eyeletted rims the nipples bite into the soft alloy before the spoke tension gets really high.

  • I'm fairly sure Mavic wheelsets are still hand rather than machine built. I've got some mavic eliipses which i've run on the road for about 9 months and had no problems.

  • But you don't need eyelets in deep/strong rims, as tensions don't need to be so high. It's horses for clichés.

  • FFS

    its friday afternoon

    you lot should be taking the piss, being rude etc

    being helpful, insightful and useful is all well and good but give me some popcorn

    this has been a genuinely constructive thread, so I will remove myself before I fuck it up

  • Off you fuck, cunt.

  • he's right.
    with non-eyeletted rims the nipples bite into the soft alloy before the spoke tension gets really high.

    I had a nipple fully bind with the drilling while building with revolution spokes, in a non-eyeleted rim. Being the tit that I am, I was truing away, and not noticing that it was the same spoke causing the wheel to be out. Must had twisted the feck out of that spoke. Because when it decided enough was enough, it gave a massive bang as it unwound itself and quickly discovered it was a couple mm's too short for its position in the world. Scared the poo out of me.

    We lives, we learns ;)

    (wheel now rebuilt with supercomps disc side)

  • Shimano factory wheels are all laced and trued by hand still; gallery here

    http://www.cyclingnews.com/features/photos/a-look-inside-shimanos-shrouded-wheel-factory

    Dura Fucking Ace gets it's own clean room

  • But you don't need eyelets in deep/strong rims, as tensions don't need to be so high. It's horses for clichés.

    True enough, but would a medium tensioned deep rim feel as stiff/responsive as a highly tensioned shallow one (probably with more spokes)?*

    *genuine question.

    I'd hazzard a guess at shallow.

  • Shimano factory wheels are all laced and trued by hand still; gallery here

    As are Easton.

    But by a load of strangers. Not somebody whos name you can qoute when referring to your wheels.

    So these dont count ;)

  • ^ Just thought I'd highlight the difference between factory handmade and factory machine made.

    There is a youtube video of an automatic wheelbuilding machine in action and it takes about 30 seconds to tension/true a wheel. Wouldn't want to ride one of them.

  • True enough, but would a medium tensioned deep rim feel as stiff/responsive as a highly tensioned shallow one (probably with more spokes)?*

    *genuine question.

    I'd hazzard a guess at shallow.

    I'm going to go for medium tensioned deep rim (probably with more spokes) :p

  • Off you fuck, cunt.

    +1

    hand built all the way...

    cant recommend Mornay (might have spelt his name wrong)
    but works in cycle surgery on holloway road.

  • I build all my wheels in a hand build factory. You don't get better than that. It's all about purity.

  • factory or handbuilt? i like my purity from the ground.

  • all hand built, even the hands them self.

  • these hope hoops are built for a more substantial rider and offer many of the characteristics desired

  • I#m a huge fan of anything by hope. I like the look of that front as well.

  • Post a reply
    • Bold
    • Italics
    • Link
    • Image
    • List
    • Quote
    • code
    • Preview
About

Handbuilt or Factory Wheels?

Posted by Avatar for braker @braker

Actions