Handbuilt or Factory Wheels?

Posted on
Page
of 2
/ 2
Next
  • Hello internet,

    I like stiff wheels... but the handbuilt wheels i've had in the past pale in comparison to my limited experience of straight-pull stiff factory wheels.

    So, Is it possible to build a stiff wheel that compares, for example, to a mavic ellipse, but with the inherant ease of repair and service that handbuilt wheels afford? Is it simply a case of wheelbuilder skill, or is the only way to acheive exceptional performance to get some OTP hoops?

    Thanks in advance for any advice
    Will tickle balls for answers

  • yep, find a good wheel builder, they will build the wheel to suit you, your riding and weight

  • just keep tightening till the spokes start pinging and then add an extra turn ( 360 ) for luck
    that should get them nice and stiff

    thanks for the ticking balls offer but i think i'll pass cheers

  • do i get a free ball tickling?

  • I like stiff wheels...

    and I cannot lie

  • thanks for the ticking balls offer but i think i'll pass cheers

    You sure? I'm very dexterous

  • SURE YOU ARE but the offer is still declined thanks

  • yep, find a good wheel builder, they will build the wheel to suit you, your riding and weight

    Good point. I suppose what i'm asking is... will the j-bend spoke design be able to get the same performance/feel as a straight-pull roadie try-hard wheel?

    SURE YOU ARE but the offer is still declined thanks

    Your loss. My special finishing move is infamous

  • i doubt a traditional wheel would be as stiff as a wheel with straight pull bladed spokes. but do you get brake rub or rubbing on the stays with conventional wheels? an super stiff wheel isn't going to give you a nice ride.
    maybe tying and soldering on a trad wheel will help.

  • ^ Brake rub is not an issue i've experienced, but do feel flex even on a strong handbuilt wheel (CXP33/Track hub). I don't really notice too much loss of comfort either, between handbuilt and stiff racing wheels. The difference in performance is very clear though.

    That probably answers my own question of what i should go for, but I think I would still take a handbuilt wheel purely for ease of repair if it could be built up very stiff.

  • tying and soldering doesnot help at all according to jobst brandt
    Amazon.com: The Bicycle Wheel 3rd Edition (9780960723669): Jobst Brandt: Books

    i have the book in pdf if anyone wants it i can mail it

  • Can you repair a wheel yourself, or would you use your LBS for that?

  • cxp33 not exactly the worlds most strong or non flexy rim ;)

    i go up and down in tension with my own spokes, depends on lots of factors. would of thought a handbuilt 32 with brass nipples etc would be way stiffer than a factory 16 spoke with alloy nipples.

  • have you contacted someone like the wheelsmith? sure you could get a pair of gigantex rims laced stiff enough for your needs, perhaps not using traditional spoking though

  • Thanks for the advice all.

    @DB, fair point on the CXP33 - i wasn't overly impressed by them either to be honest. Could you recommend me some components for a really stiff wheel?

    have you contacted someone like the wheelsmith? sure you could get a pair of gigantex rims laced stiff enough for your needs, perhaps not using traditional spoking though

    I have had a look at the lower profile gigantex rims, but lack of alu braking surface turned me off them.

  • I would recommend Parker International for nice cheap handbuilt road wheels.

  • depends on what you want it for?? the stiffest wheel i've built is a radial deep section 650 rim like a deep v or h+, onto a high flange hub. but thats not practical

    i rate open pro's for all round use and lace them really tight as dicki suggested, till the nipples almost round off.

  • cxp33 not exactly the worlds most strong or non flexy rim ;)

    i go up and down in tension with my own spokes, depends on lots of factors. would of thought a handbuilt 32 with brass nipples etc would be way stiffer than a factory 16 spoke with alloy nipples.

    Damon Rinard article on wheel stiffness and types of construction

    http://www.sheldonbrown.com/rinard/wheel/index.htm

    I lol'd

    Aerospoke 5 spoke 0% These wheels are the most flexible wheels I've ever tested. There is no difference at or between spokes primarily because they are so flexible everywhere

  • lateral stiffness vs vertical stiffness...whole big argument there!

  • i think, as ever, you won't get any objectiveparticularly useful advice on here, so you may have to speak to a wheelbuilder and explore your concerns. harry rowland apparently built a great pair of cxp33s for a storck..

  • Lateral stiffness is a result of spoke pattern/number and rim strength. Vertical stiffness/strength is affected by tension, but definitely dependent on what/who the bike's for. Getting just enough tension for rider weight/application is what I'd recommend. Sometimes there's only 1-complete spoke turn between 'a bit too much give' and 'fucking uncomfortably bone-jarring'.

  • i think, as ever, you won't get any objectiveparticularly useful advice on here, so you may have to speak to a wheelbuilder and explore your concerns. harry rowland apparently built a great pair of cxp33s for a storck..

    Yes, but i'm a human :)

    Personally, I think the advice has been very helpful.

  • Last point from me:

    Factory-built wheel manufacturers tension their wheels for their heaviest/most bike-abusive imaginary customers. If they're not easy to adjust, you're stuck with this 'setting' even if you're using the wheels for general riding/training and you're not a 120kg rider.

    One way to moderate this situation, is to pick a wheelset based on certain inherent characteristics of the parts involved in the build.

    I own one factory set of wheels: Campag Neutrons. I'm ~65kg, and ride fairly light. Despite the high tension of the spokes, they do afford some comfort due to the shallower section rim. There's no way I'd pick a factory built wheelset with 30mm rim depth. It would rattle the shit out of me.

    And of course these were the wheels that ~90kg Backstedt rode to Paris-Roubaix victory - I'm sure comfort was high on his list of priorities for that one.

  • yes you're probably right, dose of unreason this morning, possibly linked to sense of forboding over the 'festive' season

    65kgs, sheesh, doubly grumpy now

  • Well, 63kg for race weight on the road, but I'm only 170cm tall*.

    *vain attempt to be all modern and metric and shit.

  • Post a reply
    • Bold
    • Italics
    • Link
    • Image
    • List
    • Quote
    • code
    • Preview
About

Handbuilt or Factory Wheels?

Posted by Avatar for braker @braker

Actions