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• #27
Not quite a headset issue, but close:
- Bike is a Boardman CX Team
- Carbon Steerer
- Metal expanding stem bung
- Alloy spacers
- Alloy stem
Made a cracking and creaking noise (similar to a Tea Clipper putting on all sail) whenever you got out of the saddle to climb.
I took everything apart, cleaned, applied carbon assembly paste, and then reassembled (moving one spacer to on top of the stem) and used my torque wrench to get everything done up exactly as it should be.
It still fucking creaks.
A lot more quietly, but it still does it- ideas anyone?
- Bike is a Boardman CX Team
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• #28
check cable ends in the stops
they can get dry and give you an echoey creak when you twist the bars
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• #29
If a headset cup is loose Id use some paint to add the .2mm that may be needed, just rub some on the inside of the headtube. Ive used paint for the forks crown race when it was slightly below 26.4.
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• #30
Thought I'd resurrect rather than start a new thread.
Bottom headset cup on second hand frame is loose - Doesn't drop out on it's own, but can pull it out by hand. think it might be a JIS/ISO missmatch 30.2 mm vs 30.0 Any options - Heard mention of loctite/glueing it. Really don't want to have to shell out for new headset and fitting etc.
In the end i shimmed it with a bit of strongbow can and pressed it in with a DIY headset press. Seems solid enough. Will check it occasionaly to see how it fares
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• #31
Not quite a headset issue, but close:
- Bike is a Boardman CX Team
- Carbon Steerer
- Metal expanding stem bung
- Alloy spacers
- Alloy stem
Made a cracking and creaking noise (similar to a Tea Clipper putting on all sail) whenever you got out of the saddle to climb.
I took everything apart, cleaned, applied carbon assembly paste, and then reassembled (moving one spacer to on top of the stem) and used my torque wrench to get everything done up exactly as it should be.
It still fucking creaks.
A lot more quietly, but it still does it- ideas anyone?
integrated headset on the boardman?
I would strip the headset bearings out and lube (regular grease) under the bearings in the frame- it might be the source of the creaks? integrated headsets are basically a horrible design- it's only a question of when they make a noise, not if....
- Bike is a Boardman CX Team
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• #32
Right, another ressurection on a tired subject, and one likely to outline me as a moron, but...
Im putting a beater together, falcon black diamond frame (lulz) and the headset I've got is made up of different bits, the cups fit the frame nicely, but when I try and thread on the top race, it goes on a few cm really easily, then suddenly wont budge... inspection showed a slight squashing of threads at one point, so I filed them out (with an old engineer neighbour) but to no use... tried forcing the threads past the burr, but it seems to be squashing the threads on the steerer past that point... almost as if the race size was wrong, but only aster a couple of cm...
is this me needing a 1 1/8 headset? I dont know the date of the frame, presume its 70s/80s, which would imply 1" steerer, so im confused. are there any sizes below 1" that the upper race could be, that I've unwittingly picked up?
help?
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• #33
I had this same problem recently when fitting a new headset - the top cup wouldn't screw on but the locking nut would. most likely the problem is in the thread pitch. does your new headset give any indication that it is italian threaded? english threads have a 60 degree angle whereas italian have 55 degree.
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• #34
cant see any numbers, and dont have it on me, but i remember trying two and same problem with both... gah!
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• #35
Resurrecting an old thread, I see someone has given a Park tool ref to ream the head tube, however this page gives all the dimensions- those enthusiastic about standardisation, read and weep:
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• #36
I had to get my head around external cup headsets to install my tapered steerer mtb fork.
and then the difficulty in actually buying such a cup...
fuuuuu
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• #37
help!
my headset on my bike is completely fucked, the bike rocks when i put the front brake on and push forward. Have tried tightening. Also since going on a particularly muddy 35 mile ride the bike feels verrrry odd steering. Like it doesnt want to steer then all of a sudden does. Steering quickly feels dangerous..
Is there anything I can do to clean etc before I buy a new headset/ get it fitted it is threadless btw which I am not used to.
cheers
ps - also re greased an old threaded quill type headset and it ran smoothly but still rocked, this a problem with headset or forks?
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• #38
It is clearly loose and probably rusty. To be honest if I were you I would take it to someone who knows how to service it rather than try and do it yourself, and perhaps get them to teach you how it works so you can maintain it in the future.
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• #39
sounds like you could just be tightening it in the wrong order.
Try loosening the bolts on the stem first, then tighten the allen bolt on the top cap, this should tension the headset, check the stem is straight and tighten up the bolts on the stem again.
^top cap
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• #40
If you've been riding it around with a really loose headset and it's not a sealed bearing type, you could be missing some of the balls / rollers that make up the bearing - this might explain the weird steering symptoms you describe. If you decide to check this, take the top cap off completely and remove the stem. You should then be able to slide the fork out a little and see what's going on inside. If everything looks like it's there and covered in grease (not mud), reassemble and do the whole thing up like Malaysian said. If it looks like any balls / rollers are missing or it's full of mud, then you need to google "headset servicing".
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• #41
it wasnt loose enough for ballbearings to fall out thats for sure! I took off the top cap and stem but the forks didnt budge, didnt want to go at it with a mallet.. ?
anyway, ive given it to my lbs to either clean or replace if needed. Unfortunately the mechanic had gone by half 5 and so she couldnt do it there and then and show me how it was done.
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• #42
ive given it to my lbs
Good idea.
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• #43
got it back, they had over tightened it so steering was really stiff but have adjusted it and seems to be ok now!
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• #44
All's well that ends well I guess. It's a bit worrying that pro mechanics are over tightening headsets, especially to the point that steering is affected!
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• #45
ok so this is really bugging me-
Steering is too stiff and the forks dont even move when lifting front wheel when I tighten the headset so that there is no play/rocking - like how my lbs gave it back to me. For the forks to move freely the headset is loose enough for there to be rocking when you push forward with the brakes on. It shouldnt be like this..
what am I doing wrong?
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• #46
Missing balls or rollers / missing spacer or washer / headset cups on a serious wonk. Which bike shop are you using? Might be time for a rethink - this shouldn't be a difficult one to solve.
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• #47
just using a small local bike shop, havnt been before as it is one at uni. ffs, thought id spend the money and get someone who knew what they were doing to do it - seems like I could have done it just as well
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• #48
Where is uni / home? Maybe we could suggest somewhere / someone to take a look at it for you. Then again, if you have paid them to sort it you are well within your rights to expect them to sort it!
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• #49
loughborough uni/ near cambridge home. LBS at uni is at the bottom of my road so took it there just now and they are going to have a look at it tomorrow as the mechanic isnt in, pain in the ass!
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• #50
If the ball bearings came in a cartridge, could be that the cartridge has fallen apart and is leaving so much debris in the races that at the correct tightness it's all jammed. Usually happens on the bottom race. I'm replacing a headset for a pal this weekend that's suffering from this.
It's important to get it fixed quickly otherwise there's too much stress on the headtube, sometimes even causing some ovalising on the tubing.
DoctorBike
As an alternative to loctite.
Use a centre punch and a small hammer to make an even series of punch marks around the internal periphery of the frame where the cup sits.
This will have the effect of decreasing the diameter slightly, when the cup is pressed in it will deform the punch marks to make a tight fit.