Running a 1/8 chain on 3/32 sprocket & chainring?

it works, but after i changed my 1/8 to 3/32 as i ended up with 3/32 chainring and sprocket it felt like a new drivetrain.

its better to have everything matching (doesn't apply to denim)

I've never even thought of this problem before, let alone seen it discussed on the forum. Christ, what a can of worms! Well done for starting a thread on it.

Lol, cheers Olly

Lol, cheers Olly

Er, sarcasm radar fail.

Er, sarcasm radar fail.

Er, double sarcasm radar fail.

£1 fee

was thinking that using a 1/8 chain will give me slightly more play laterally?

Use 3/32" - They're meant to be used with a block/cassette and derailleur, therefore iIt's designed be able to take the load under lateral stresses.

**(ok so i'm putting my questions here as well) *

Ok, my dumb question now please.
I just got this ring not that cheap but i'm going for the HHSB look in classic chic, so beat me to it.

...and it is a 3/32. I really prefer to know before going on a 1/8 chain, if the market offers
good quality 3/32 SS/track chains.
So far I've found:

*Token Track Chain
*KMC Z610HX 3/32" BMX/Track Chain (Nickel) (112L)

*IZUMI BMX TRACK Chain 3/32"
*KMC 3/32" RUST PROOF

Would like to know who has experience with any/other models that might be useful.
My drivetrain:
wheels - ARAYA 430 laced to Dura Ace track LF
DA cog - DA cranks - DA ring (^^that one... 3/32^^)

As above, i know this can be done but will it cause any real problems? My reason is that the chainline is going to be slightly out on my new build and was thinking that using a 1/8 chain will give me slightly more play laterally?

I currently run a 1/8 chain on my beater with a 1/8 sprocket and 3/32 chainring with no problems but the chainline is pretty much bang on (shimano freehub with spacer kit).

Cheers.

No problem running a 1/8 chain on a 3/32 sprocket/chainring. I have mainly a 1/8 set-up but my uber small chainring/ huge sprocket combo, I use for fixed mountain climbing is 3/32. The set-up sees some serious torque but has never been a problem.

The real question is why you want to. I can see your thinking about chain line flexibility, but in fact 1/8 chains have considerbly less sideways flex than 3/32 chains. So a 3/32 would be the best bet anyway.

Hope that helps :)

Bear in mind that the 'flexibility' of 3/32 chains designed for derailleur geared bikes may be a curse - they only stay on the rear sprocket of a multi-speed set-up with the help of the rear mech. If the chainline is not good, they may simply climb off the rear sprocket. I would go for a 3/32 chain designed for ss/fixed use and highly recommend the KMC-Z610HX - as good as most track chains (in fact the same apart from size as the Z510HX which is a very good 1/8" chain). Personally I would only resort to 1/8" if either the front or rear are also 1/8" (or both of course!). Oh, and sort your chainline out - if nothing else it will make it much better to ride ;-)

Bear in mind that the 'flexibility' of 3/32 chains designed for derailleur geared bikes may be a curse - they only stay on the rear sprocket of a multi-speed set-up with the help of the rear mech. If the chainline is not good, they may simply climb off the rear sprocket. I would go for a 3/32 chain designed for ss/fixed use and highly recommend the KMC-Z610HX - as good as most track chains (in fact the same apart from size as the Z510HX which is a very good 1/8" chain). Personally I would only resort to 1/8" if either the front or rear are also 1/8" (or both of course!). Oh, and sort your chainline out - if nothing else it will make it much better to ride ;-)

I meant singlespeed 3/32 chain TBH.

+1 on the sort your chainline out though.
Hub spacers, different bb spindle, chainring bolt spacers etc. etc.

Cheers for the replies guys! I may have shot myself in the foot a bit when i bought my crankset - it's this;

http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/Models.aspx?ModelID=35736

which i got simply due to it being affordable and apparently worth a lot more if you believe the rrp listed! The issue i have found is that its ISIS drive and i ended up with a 113mm BB, which is 10mm larger that the original on the fuji track frame. Here's where my newbie knowledge of SS/fixie bikes came into play and i thought "5mm won't make all that much difference" but i didnt take into account the fact that the chainring will sit on the face of the crankdisc as opposed to offset towards the frame like it would be on a spider crank.

I have a bit of string around the frame in my room atm to get an idea for the chainline and it looks way out. I'm thinking i may just have to put the project on hold and save up for a new crankset and BB...

oldskoolracer - glad you asked your original question, saves me asking it as i'm just dipping my toes into the singlespeed waters...it's now answered my question too....

**(ok so i'm putting my questions here as well) *
...and it is a 3/32. I really prefer to know before going on a 1/8 chain, if the market offers
good quality 3/32 SS/track chains.
So far I've found:

*Token Track Chain
*KMC Z610HX 3/32" BMX/Track Chain (Nickel) (112L)

*IZUMI BMX TRACK Chain 3/32"
*KMC 3/32" RUST PROOF

Would like to know who has experience with any/other models that might be useful.
My drivetrain:
wheels - ARAYA 430 laced to Dura Ace track LF
DA cog - DA cranks - DA ring (^^that one... 3/32^^)

Id check out these:
KMC K810SL, and the one I'm using on the track... can't remember what it's called, but it's a KMC something SL, and looks to be a little less heavy duty than the K810SL. :)

• they only stay on the rear sprocket of a multi-speed set-up with the help of the rear mech.
  
  

This is mostly because of the shape of the teeth on the cassette sprockets, not the chain....compare a fixed sprocket to one on a modern "block".

The smallest ISIS BB you will find is 108mm. This + 2.5mm of spacers on your hub would sort you out.
(Nice looking crankset BTW)
BB
http://www.allterraincycles.co.uk/product/118025.html
or
http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/Models.aspx?PartnerID=79&ModelID=2962

Sexy chainring (probs 1/8").
http://www.allterraincycles.co.uk/product/113084.html

Spacers (bottom of page).
http://www.velosolo.co.uk/shoptrack.html

Sorted :)

i haven;t read all this thread so apologies if it has been said, why do you need a new crankset to sort chainline? new bb £10, or chainring spacers or cog spacers.

sorry if i missed something.

edit: smallfurry got in.

Cheers for that small furry, i'm assuming i'd be using the spacer on one side of the rear hub to move the sprocket position outwards but then my rear wheel will need re-dishing yes?

Also are we assuming that i'm mounting the chainring on the inside of the crankarm?

Velo Libre - with reference to mounting my chainring on the inside of the crankarm is there any reason i cannot use spacers (i.e. washers) to move the chainring in even further? Providing i have sufficient clearance with my chainstays of course. This way i don't have to touch the rear wheel at all...

Cheers for that small furry, i'm assuming i'd be using the spacer on one side of the rear hub to move the sprocket position outwards but then my rear wheel will need re-dishing yes?

No. The spoke holes will not be moved relative the hubnuts (we are talking about a track hub?) so no need to re-dish.

Also are we assuming that i'm mounting the chainring on the inside of the crankarm?

I'm assuming you mount the chainring in the way it was intended by the crankset design.

Velo Libre - with reference to mounting my chainring on the inside of the crankarm is there any reason i cannot use spacers (i.e. washers) to move the chainring in even further? Providing i have sufficient clearance with my chainstays of course. This way i don't have to touch the rear wheel at all...

This is also an option, but in my opinion its ugly.
http://www.sjscycles.co.uk/product.asp?pf_id=5888&src=froogle

edit: smallfurry got in.

Win :)

Yep its a BLB track hub.

That will be on the outside face then.

Agreed.

Damn I hates admitting this....
but I have 2mm of those exact spacers on my Bob Jackson (fecking asymmetric BB, grrrr). Just wack on the 2.5mm spacer, then the sprocket, and then the lockring. Be sure you're happy with the amount you are able to screw on the lockring, as this will now be 2.5mm less than before. I can tell you that this is a safe set-up on an ambrosio hub (system-X etc.), but you'll have to suck it and see with yours.

...thus
Notice the lack of lockring space left after use of the spacer. Also these spacers are basically BB spacers, so if you have any lying around you can use them.

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Cheers buddy, muchos apreciated.

I'll get on the case and order a new BB then see what the crack is when my sprocket arrives... damn Royal Mail strike...

No worries. Enjoy the ride :)