Any question answered...

Or just never stand up to pedal and always keep it in granny gears so if it does slip it’s no biggie

MTB so there is a natural element of that!!! Will get a new one (hopefully)

Thanks that's really useful.

After something to give plenty of balance and stability.

Aren't those short teeth there by design for shifting?

Good point, and whilst they do have the short teet to assist shifting, like most rings, this coincided with a whack yesterday, bent chainring and then my noticing these 'different' teeth - also next to eachother. Maybe I'll have a look at a pic of a new one and see if I can deduce for sure

Ok ok, I'll get a new one!! About to put an ad on the wanted thread

What size & bcd do you need?

Hang fire @Emyr is onto something... looking at the below pic, those adjacent clipped teeth are meant to be there (3-4 away from the A of FSA); it just to happened that this was the exact area I whacked yesterday causing the chainring to bend out of true. Naturally I've added 2+2 together and got 5 I think. Adjustable spanner to ease chainring back to near true so I think I'm sorted.

Cheers

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Good, because nobody's gonna have a spare 3-bolt chainring!

A quick Google had me thinking as much!!!

Theylook quite worn anyway tbf

Edit -actually the teeth in the pic above don’t look too beefy to begin with :/

Yeah, will hang fire until I switch it over to 1X so hopefully will last out. Dropped you a PM re: Dorset

I'm at Southwark Bridge Road.

Will need to dig out the keys for the locks (lost the bunch last week...) and give them a quick once over.

Potentially pick-up on Monday?

I have one of these. 13 years and still going strong.

Does anyone on here by chance have access to PubMed or another of the research science health journal sites?

I’m wanting to read a paper called ‘Eye Movement Desensitization and Reprocessing (EMDR): A New Kind of Dreamwork?’

I do, PM!

Friendliest forum on the internet! Thanks 🙏🏻

It’s more than likely aluminium. So it’ll bend again.

Buy a new one. (And fit it).

Probably best to consider new chain and cassette as well, because your drive train will wear new components to a similar level of wear as the most worn components.

Yeah - hoping it's going to tide me over until an opportunity to go 1X arises.
Thanks for advice

They may well shorter to aid shifting but the whole thing looks fucked, set fire to the bike.

managed to ease back to something like true so no issue there

For all the chat about whether your teeth should be that shape, it's actually the bending it back into shape which is the real issue. Chainrings, like most aluminium alloy bicycle parts, are made from precipitation hardened alloys. The price you pay for high yield strength is very poor ductility. When you try to apply large cold deformations, you usually are not flowing the alloy as you might in a highly ductile metal, you're just moving the cracks around. Material which has suffered this kind of abuse is seriously weakened, and is likely to fail catastrophically under peak loading conditions, which is exactly the moment when it can do the most damage to the rider.
As a general rule, any component made from one of these alloys (which is basically all the ones used for bicycle parts) which has been bent far enough to stop functioning as designed should be binned immediately, because bending it back into shape just makes the crash you have when it breaks worse than the one you had to bend it.

In short: lose the teeth if you want to keep yours.

Argh, what has been read cannot be unread!! Many thanks; my move to 1x will be immediate!

Cheers

am prepping a frame to move my commuter bits from a Marin BV to a slightly larger Marin BV: I have Kurust. Does it need a long time to cure or can I give it a sloosh > wait an hour > build?

*cure/evaporate/whatever

These Coda mtb cranks will be 94bcd right?

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Useful tip, was looking for quill stem with 25.4mm clamp, thanks!