Any question answered...

I'm actually thinking about a 1x10 drivetrain, but from my understanding, isn't the difference in chainline even bigger for fixed-outer double than cassette-outer double?

@mdcc_tester is that on a scale of 1 to 10?

Depends what gear you’re in innit. I’ve been running 1x10 on road cranks, NW chainring in the big ring position (like everyone else). It’s just like only riding in the big ring - so no more or less wear than normal. Maybe a tiny bit more cross chaining but negligible I’d say.

Yeah you're right I guess, I'm just overthinking it. Will give it a go, cheers.

tester is that on a scale of 1 to 10?

It's in mm for common fixed hubs.

Ah that makes more sense, cheers! I'll just try it (plan on running 1x10) and if it doesn't work well enough I'll go square taper.

I'm quite baffled by the concept of chainline on 1xn setups. Wherever you put your chainring on the crank the chain will be "bent" for all but one gear. Ideally I guess you should align the chainring with the centre of the cassette, but if you only use the highest gears once in a blue moon, why not put it further inboard and just deal with the horrible cross-chaining on those rare occasions.

On the bike that I'm currently building (1x6) I've put the chainring off-centre, relative to the cassette, because I need to compensate for the ridiculously large q-factor of the cranks.

I think I'd ideally have the chainring slightly outside of the middle, maybe it'll be too much with the rival cranks, I'll see. Can't put it on the inside though due to lack of clearance.

Yeah, clearance can be a real issue. I think the proper solution is to find a a chainring and cassette combination that allows you to use all the cogs (i.e., having the right gear ratios for the type of riding you do) while having the chainring properly centred relative to the cassette. quite often though there's a degree of compromise, especially if you're trying a new component while keeping other bits the same.

But isn't the horrible chainline one of the main problems with 1x?

isn't the horrible chainline one of the main problems with 1x?

Meh. We used to use 1x6 (only about 3mm per side less offset than current 11-speed) with bushed chain before Sedis won the dérailleur chain market with their fancy new bushingless chain in the late 70s.

I need to make certified copies of my passport and council tax bill. The approved list includes banker and post master. Can I just go into a high street branch of my bank and ask for this? Or a normal post office? How much is it likely to cost and do I bring the original and a copy, or do they make the copy? There is a required wording "This is a true copy of the original (document) I have seen" - do I make the copy and add this wording, so the certifier just adds their signature, stamp and details, or do they need to write that bit as well?

I needed certified copies of some bank statements and tenancy agreements last year so I went to my local Barclays branch. The cashier used the branch's "details" rubber stamp and signed it with name, position, date... The letter asking me for said documents specified a required declaration and what details the employee needed to provide.

Ah great, that's what I needed to hear, I can go to Barclays.
Did you write out the declaration on the copy or did they? Did you have to pay for it?

No charge, the employee copied it from the letter.

Work out when's a quiet time, since they have to make the copies themselves etc etc.

Thanks

This. I’ve done it twice with Barclays, once in Holborn and I had to come back at a quiet time (basically as soon as they opened). You will need to be a barclays customer.

Lloyds wouldn’t do it for my sister a while back though.

Does anyone know how to adjust the position of the whole lever relative to the bar on Shimano RS-505 hydro? They're slightly flared on my new bike but can't find any info about where the clamp is in the owners manual.
Also, how easy is it to shorten a hydraulic brake line on said 505's? Is it just a matter of emptying the line, cutting it to size then re-filling/bleeding as per instructions or am I better off taking it to a shop?

Even easier if you just trim it, stick a new olive and barb on and reattach without spilling any fluid. You might want to burp any air bubbles out afterwards, which is made easier with shimano's bleedy cup attachment jobbie and pumping the lever a lot.

Done (at Barclays). Took a while because council tax bill isn't on their list of normal things they certify, so they tried to phone Lewisham to verify it was legit... 15min later of being on hold and hung up on they gave up and just stamped the thing.

What options are there for a silver, 11 speed, 135oln, QR, 6 bolt disc, rear hub - that isn't expensive?

I've bought the Deore one which is cheap and I'm sure would last forever, but it isn't silver, it's grey.

Ideally I'd have something to match my SP Dynamo front, which is super shiney polished silver, but I'm not paying Hope prices to achieve that..

I've bought the Deore one which is cheap and I'm sure would last forever, but it isn't silver, it's grey. Ideally I'd have something to match my SP Dynamo front, which is super shiney polished silver

Polish the Deore one.

Novatec do one if you can find it for sale. Not sure what your definition of cheap is but I bought them and everyone whinges at me for being a cheapskate all the time so maybe they'll be right for you too.

Something like:

here's a pair for £50 - buyer beware, I only spent about 2 seconds on eBay, you might be able to find cheaper/better ones if you hunt about

I don't think I have the patience or skill for that. Novatec is a good shout, I'd looked on their website and couldn't find any silver ones tho

More patience than skill required for something that will be at least a metre from anyone's eyes most of the time.

I’ve just replaced all the bearings on a rear Halo Vapour wheel. Used the old bearings to tap the new ones all the way home. But when I rebuild the wheel the freewheel has a lot of friction. You can turn it by hand but on the bike it won’t freewheel - the cranks just spin.

Any ideas what I’m doing wrong?