Any question answered...

too much POWERRRR!!!!!!!!11111111111111

If they didn't tighten the Allen bolts correctly, just the compression bolt thingy?

(I take it you mean hollowtech 2, if hollowtech 1 then possible they misaligned the splines then torqued it up misaligned)

All I can find is expensive or really cheap (mystery brand) is there a particular model I should look for?

@Scilly.Suffolk I think you may be onto something but gf is not convinced... Having ridden hire bikes with grip shifts she is pretty convinced the within reach from her grips is ideal.

I remember having thumbies on a mtb as a kid and didn't think they were too awkward, they were indexed though...

Would old Shimano 6 speed thumbies work with the indexing on the right hand & campag rear mech, could just run friction for front of course... I don't understand all the different pull ratios etc or when they came about.

yeah HTII.

Interestingly the plastic compression cap was missing but AFAIK that's only for compression prior to tightening the bolts. In theory you could take it off once the bolts are tight.

waits to be told I'm completely wrong

Anyway, bit of a shitter because he had to walk to the nearest station and take it up with Halfords as to why his Ultegra cranks have been destroyed.

Hollowtech 2 are pretty solid, I would wager installation error especially given the timescales.

Incorrect torque on the pinch bolts is the only thing I can think it would be.

And shop involved.

I've got some 6 speed gripshifters, but the front is also indexed and for a triple.

They were hooked-up to a no-name RD, almost certainly Shimano spec, so I doubt they'd work with a Campag RD.

You'd have to check cable-pulls: the Shimergo thread on CTC seems to be the go-to resource on such things.

A Shimano RD is likely the least painful option, whatever shifters you use.

Anyone got any money off voucher codes for rosebikes?

Damn you Halfords!

In theory you could take it off once the bolts are tight.

Once the pinch bolts are tight it's pretty fricken' hard to get it off. Ever tried it?

IIRC even if you forget to torque the bolts (!) the safety catchy doobry prevents total destruction of crank. Maybe they lost that, too.

Normal sidi, specialized and mavic come to mind.

IIRC even if you forget to torque the bolts (!) the safety catchy doobry prevents total destruction of crank.

Nah, the "safety catch"(it's just called 'Plate' in the instructions) is just there to add friction to the clamp bolts, like a Nyloc, to reduce their tendency to loosen in service. If the clamp bolts have too little tension, the splined interface oscillates under load and since the axle is steel and the crank aluminium, the crank tends to get wrecked first.

Halfords fault, end of discussion.

It's hard to take off the compression cap once you tighten it and the bolt, it sound like the "technician" forget to put the plastic compression cap after putting the crank on, and since he forget that, i would very much wager this is not a workshop to be trusted with something you can learn from reading up the Shimano technical document online.

It's hard to take off the compression cap once you tighten it and the bolt

But it's relatively easy for it to fall out if the crank is rocking on the axle thanks to no clamp bolt tension :-)

In that case, "technician" didn't do the bolt up let alone torqued it.

Interesting - I thought the pin on the plate interfaces with the spindle, preventing - perhaps a bit optimistically - the arm rotating around the spindle over the splines, which is where I'd imagine the catastrophic damage to occur. Having it rocking around loose on the spindle isn't going to do the arm any favours, either, I know.

If you (or she) can deal with the cheap looks and cost, the SunRace stuff is fine.

Any idea what size bolt I need to fit a rack to a 90's claud butler mtb, it's reynolds 500. M5 slips in with ease but the m6 bolt I have won't engage the threads at all? is it a pitch thing?

Some old fashioned size?

7/32 or 5.5 ?

If it's old and steel I would say could well need re tapping/chasing... I had to do that with the Argos. You can get cheap tap/dye kits from some pound shops I think, had mine already though.

Or it may be they're already stripped? In which case, retapping to m6 should do it.

A workaround would be to use M5 with a nut on t'other side.

Semi-helpful

The pin's about 0.5mm ø - not going to stop anything given the forces on the crank spindle. I always thought it was more to let you know you've got the cranks in the right position since if you don't, the pin won't engage into the hole in the spindle and the plate will be in the way when you try and insert the clamp bolts.
I'm surprised the plate serves any purpose other than to stop you fitting the cranks in the wrong position.

Hi

Just been in the other thread and was directed here. Had an accident and 1 or maybe 2 of my front wheel spoke is untrue, took it to bike shop near the incident and they said I need a new wheel.. Been advised by a member here to get a second opinion.. I live in N1 (old street) and wondered if there are any good bike repair shops? I thought of Look mum no hands.. Is that any good? Or others? Thanks in advance.