Any question answered...

An instructor should be checking the state of your bike before starting the training. 2 working brakes are a requirement. Additionally having a brake will assist in your emergency stops and general control of the bike.

CTUK's policy is "A coaster/fixed gear bike without a front brake is not road legal so shouldn’t be used while training"

It's good friday tomorrow so no work. I had a quick look at the rides forum but couldn't see anything on tomorrow, is anyone riding?

It's supposed to be wet tomorrow. I'm holding out for Saturday.

Anything missing from this front caliper. Something doesn't look right to me around the barrel adjuster area

1 Attachment

You should have a ferrule there...

locknut? it that really the correct barrel adjuster?

@rallyman1978 brake cable ferrules?

Ferrule!! Yes of course

Many thanks 👍

google image search for "shimano 105 front brake" shows all of the barrel adjusters are black. Maybe why it looks odd.

From that camera angle I can't tell if there's a brake ferrule between the end of the cable outer and the barrel adjuster (the adjuster may have a built-in one).

Yeah, you need a ferrule and you might be able to get away with having a shorter housing so you can get a straight pull from the calliper. I think some brakes have some sort of washer between the adjuster and the main body too.

On another note... Orange spokes?

I recall seeing a brake/mudguard bracket that uses a wedge in the steerer under the fork crown. Am I imagining this or does it truly exist?

http://www.tredz.co.uk/.FSA-Orbit-IS-CX-Cyclocross-Headset-with-Canti-Cable-Hanger_46466.htm ?

Or something like the VO Fork Crown Daruma?

http://www.freshtripe.co.uk/freshtripe/Mudguards%20%26%20Racks.html

Or SKS Grand Dad?

http://www.rosebikes.co.uk/article/sks-mounting-kit-for-grand-dad-mudguard/aid:507662?gclid=CKrIkaTq18QCFernwgodOqUAag

http://katsuri.com/archives/6349

That't the chap.

Now how the hell do I buy one (and make it work with a 1 1/8" steerer)?

I should really just drill the fork crown but it's curved and ugh effort.

Chainring bolts for ultegra 6800? There are a few that look similar but i'd rather not have to order twice.

Doesn't look like the original adjuster for a BR-5600

Shimano brakes doesn't need ferrule but that doesn't look original.

Prime candidate for DIY.

I reckon I could sort something using a System EX quill adaptor and an L bracket, as long as the interior diameter of my steerer is standard for a 1 1/8" quill (it's threadless)

as long as the interior diameter of my steerer is standard for a 1 1/8" quill

Unlikely, as steerers made for quills are usually butted, the wall thickness needed to fit a quill stem is a bit on the thin side to be used at the crown.

A quill for a 1⅛" steerer (a rare beast, but they did exist) is 1", the quill for a 1" steerer is ⅞" (22.2mm) which is an ID you might actually find at the bottom of a fairly chunky steel 1⅛" steerer, but you could shim it if the ID is a more typical 24mm. The SystemEX thing will be ⅞" with a shim to bring it up to 1", so you'd be looking for a thinner shim. Seems like a lot of hard work for a worse outcome compared with drilling the crown.

1 1/8" quills seem reasonably common in the 90's mtb scene so I was hoping that the fork was designed with both applications in mind. Didn't think about butting though. I just need to stop faffing and get the callipers out, the issue is the whole lot needs to slide up there and be flush with the bottom of the crown so if it's not at least 25.4mm it's back to square one.

if it's not at least 25.4mm it's back to square one.

It only needs to be over 22.2mm ID to get a quill for a 1" steerer up there, anything over that can be shimmed.

But I haven't yet seen a quill adaptor that isn't at least 25.4 where the stem clamps

Ah, you're thinking of stuffing it right up there. I thought you might just cut the bottom off to use the ready made wedge and add an appropriate screw and washer to tighten it.

I want to avoid that because I don't own a vice and a hacksaw. But yes, that would be a lot neater.