Any question answered...

http://www.wiggle.co.uk/pro-plt-alloy-seat-post-ice-grey/

Not current production, but you might find NOS somewhere

Where can I purchase hi-viz pink DeFeet Armskins?

What are my options for low profile disc rotor bolts?
I'm planning on using a bold on cog and I want it too look neat and tidy.

Can you get a cog with countersinking?

Torx heads can be shallower for a given material and torque, and they're generally a good idea anyway.

Perhaps, if not I may be able to countersink my self. Will this still be strong enough though?
I'm aware this maybe a stupid question...

What's your level of expertise and equippedness in after-market machining?

I predict dodgy chain tension.

easy when the holes already drilled....

What are my options for low profile disc rotor bolts?

http://www.accuscrews.co.uk/95-torx-button-screws
H≤2.75mm

I may be able to countersink my self

The best way to avoid drilling yourself is to use a pillar drill with a solid machine vice. Adding countersinks to a sprocket should work, but you'll need to do it quite precisely to get a flush look, and as there's quite a bit of variation between head forms, you can only really get a lovely aesthetic result for screws from a specific maker, which you should buy and measure before you attack the sprocket with a countersink.

Sks chromoplasts, is there a good secure way to attach the rear to the frame at the brake bridge and bottom backet with no drillings or eyelets at either? I can use the QR mounts at the dropouts but theres no other eyelets on my talbot

theres no other eyelets on my talbot

should have gone custom

My only regret

You and every fucker on the forum.

Only person who actually have eyelets is @Dammit

Drill two little holes in the guards and thread a cable tie through and round the brake bridge / bb.

Sounds bodge, but lighter than bolts, so actually very pro.

Cable tie will die quickly with road shmutz being thrown up there all the time.
Get a short piece of alu strapping and accept the added weight of two bolts and two nuts.

Cable tie will die quickly

You must be using some crap zip-ties, all the ones I've ever tried to remove have put up a good fight. Conversely, aluminium strip will fatigue crack in very short order.

Installing an alloy bb in an alu frame. Grease the threads with any type or specific grease? Saw a lot of conflicting info.

Nope, all UV resistant industrial ties; my experience may be coloured by their exposure to salt, sand and sub-zero temps.
I've never had to remove any, they've left of their own accord.

i just bought an old 26" spin trispoke, but not 100% it will fit my 650c fork. it was only advertised as a 26" spin trispoke...guess now its just a matter of waiting to find out :/

salt, sand and sub-zero

That sounds less fun than sun, sea and sex. Of the three, my guess is that low temperature might be the killer for standard ties, they are made to live happily in hot wiring cabinets, and you can't have a very wide usable temperature range with nylon. I wonder if there is an Arctic grade?

I refer the honourable gentleman to my previous answer

Installing an alloy bb in an alu frame. Grease the threads with any type or specific grease?

Copaslip or similar. If you don't already have some, go to a motor factor and get a 500g tin, that will last a lifetime.

Best way to remove a grease smudge from matt carbon fibre wheels?

Cheapest place to pick up a decent 16 or 32gb CF card between old St and Bethnal green?

Mermaid's tears are the only thing that will do it properly.