Any question answered...

Max: if it's for work, I'd use risers. I never really liked working on drops. Ended up on the flats the entire time, and no where near brakes. Which is fine for the most part, but what's the point of having drops if you're not using them. With a nice set of risers you can get a comfortable upright position, nice wide bars, brakes right there. Seems to make sense to me.

But, as people have said, your personal preference.

Nice comment Mark. Thanks. I worked on risers last winter and as far as I remember the position was really nice. It was a completely different kind of bike though, a brakeless fixed Steamroller.

I think I'm just afraid of getting the stem length wrong if I go for risers. I know my sizing with road bars and last time I used risers I just fluked it with spare parts.

Definitely food for thought.

It's very easy to calculate stem length using a tape measure.

FTF - Flange to flange

hot

It's very easy to calculate stem length using a tape measure.

Yeah, is it? I'll have to take into account saddle to bar drop, TT length, stem angle, the shape/width of the bars...

Or just ask Ed.

Yeah, is it? I'll have to take into account saddle to bar drop, TT length, stem angle, the shape/width of the bars...

Bit of trigonometry never hurt anyone.

Tape/bit of string from post saddle interface to hand position on current bars = 80cm or whatever.

You know the spec of the new bars/frame - rake rise etc, you know what stem you need to get the hand position in the same place, near as dammit. If you have the new bars already, and a friend to hold them for you while you offer them up to the tape, it's even easier.

Does it matter that much with risers? You're not nearly as stretched out, there's not nearly as much weight on your hands?

(This is a question, not a criticism masked as a question mased as an owl perching device).

I'm surprised there's been no moustache bar suggestions yet.

Preist bars are the way to go. And get a front rack. You can put all your parcels on/in it. Who cares if it fucks up handling. It looks the shit.

I'd rock the ergo stem + risers look, to be honest.

I want a 1/8" ergo. Anyone got one?

Job's a good'un.

tha Max, now can I calculate the chainline just with that?

are this Joytech hubs similar to the Planet X, on-one, ambrosio???

pretty sure Joytech is just identical to ambrosio,etc.

given that i currently have

and can presume that we are paying for 10Mb/s, can i assume that when this slows to 1.4Mb/s (seemingly randomly), the problem is not with the wires in my house?

It's not your wires, it's a thing called contention. You might be able to get 10MB to the exchange, but there are 100* other people sharing a 100MB* connection to the backbone. If everybody uses it at once, your speed drops by 90%

*Actual numbers will vary according to your ISP and service plan, these are just for illustration.

I'd rock the ergo stem + risers look, to be honest.

I want a 1/8" ergo. Anyone got one?

Ha, did you ever see my low pro? It had a Look ergostem and risers. Funny as fuck.

PCD - [s]Flange[s] pitch circle diameter??

The imaginary circle on which the centres of the spoke holes lie. Half PCD is the radial distance between centres of the axle and a spoke hole.

I want to buy a crank set that use ISIS BB.
I dont know how the chainline will be, there are different lenght BB I could use or it just one?
thinking like in squared taper you have 107mm, 109mm, 111mmm, 113mm
can you get such a thing with ISIS?
if not, could you use space between the frame and the BB to move a bit out the BB shell?

I've just finished building a wheel. I used a few differing lengths of spokes, as a had a few lying around. However, I've noticed that different parts of the wheel now accelerate at different rates. Can I overcome this problem using differential cranks, or a differential chain (it's rear wheel obviously)?

I've just finished building a wheel. I used a few differing lengths of spokes, as a had a few lying around. However, I've noticed that different parts of the wheel now accelerate at different rates. Can I overcome this problem using differential cranks, or a differential chain (it's rear wheel obviously)?

Assuming the wheel is circular but eccentric, you just need to use an eccentric sprocket with the same degree and axis of eccentricity as the wheel. If the wheel is elliptical, you need an elliptical sprocket, again with the axes aligned and the same major:minor axis ratio as the wheel. In short, the sprocket needs to be a precise facsimile in miniature of the wheel. If you do this, the effective gear inches will be constant throughout the whole revolution.

I want to buy a crank set that use ISIS BB.
I dont know how the chainline will be, there are different lenght BB I could use or it just one?

One of the selling points of ISIS was that there was a standard BB length, with chainline handles by the crank design. There are 4 lengths, according to the purpose of the chainset:

108mm
Narrow Mountain, Double Road

113mm
Standard Mountain

118mm
Wide Mountain, Triple Road

128mm
Downhill Specific

All the spindles are symmetric, so for any given crank the chainline will move 2.5mm for each step up the spindle size ladder.
http://www.isisdrive.com/isisdrive/ISIS_Drive_Standard_Document_revD.pdf

If you use a BB designed for a 73mm shell in a 68mm shell, you'll have scope to move it +/- 2.5mm from the centre by shimming under the cups, so in theory you should be able to get your chainline dialled in precisely as long as it falls within the upper and lower limits set by the shortest and longest spindles.

Sports massage?

http://kineticphysio.org/default.aspx

For the price you may as well go to a Nuffield though.....

I see...

OK, how the same question will apply to Octalink cranks - BB.

how can I adjust the chainline?

Octalink is a nightmare, there are various spindle lengths but there are also 2 versions of the spline, after the first lot started breaking they increased the length of the interface so earlier cranks end up with a narrow chainline on later spindles, IIRC

Chain Reaction have pretty much all the lengths of version 2 in Deore grade BB-ES51
http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/Models.aspx?ModelID=908

but the road cranks all use version 1 with the short splines, and there are only two lengths, double 109mm and triple 118mm. There are no 73mm BB versions of road BBs, so you don't have the option of shimming a 73mm BB in a 68mm shell. I'd avoid like the plague as it's defunct proprietary system, so your chances of getting replacement BBs in the long term tends toward zero.

Work.
Rep given, funniest joke of 2010

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