Any question answered...

Has anyone used Chromecast?

Sorry to be cheeky, I though reposting the query below in a new page would help getting answers... (I deleted my posts on the previous page)

I have a wheelset with campag track hubs (vintage, high flange). They have been modified / converted to road use with hollow axles and spacers for quick release skewers and to receive a block (there is space for a 5 or 6 speed block there). I'm pretty sure they are track hubs and not road as there is the two distinct threads section, for the cog and the lock ring:

• If I want to convert them back to track, can I use any standard track axles in there, as specific campag threaded track one probably cost an arm? Will standard cones work nicely against the campag cups of the hubs?
  
• The spokes are soldered. Does this mean it is impossible to re-dish the rear wheel (if I was to run it with a track cog), or will there be a bit of tolerance? Pretty sure the answer is no, but I just wanted to ask...
  
• Are campag lockrings specific to them (thread I mean)
  Thanks
  

Thank you everyone for the suit suggestions!
My mate and I went into Suit Supply on Lime St and before I know it he's having his alterations done! He had a budget of £500 and it came well below that. I didn't really have a budget in mind, and ended up spending more than I should have. When I said that I'd 'think about it' my mate looked like I'd just killed his pet kitten, so I had to take the plunge and buy with him :s
F-ing nice suit though, and great service.

Sorry to be cheeky, I though reposting the query below in a new page would help getting answers... (I deleted my posts on the previous page)

I have a wheelset with campag track hubs (vintage, high flange). They have been modified / converted to road use with hollow axles and spacers for quick release skewers and to receive a block (there is space for a 5 or 6 speed block there). I'm pretty sure they are track hubs and not road as there is the two distinct threads section, for the cog and the lock ring:

[]If I want to convert them back to track, can I use any standard track axles in there, as specific campag threaded track one probably cost an arm? Will standard cones work nicely against the campag cups of the hubs?
[]The spokes are soldered. Does this mean it is impossible to re-dish the rear wheel (if I was to run it with a track cog), or will there be a bit of tolerance? Pretty sure the answer is no, but I just wanted to ask...
[*]Are campag lockrings specific to them (thread I mean)
Thanks

You can probably use a standard track axel on them, campag lockrings are different but AFAIK there's at least one other company that uses them (Maybe Miche or mavic)

You can probably use a standard track axel on them, campag lockrings are different but AFAIK there's at least one other company that uses them (Maybe Miche or mavic)

So much fail.

You can't use a non-Campag axle because Campag axle thread pitch is 26tpi, not the 1.0mm used by most other people.

Campag lockrings are 1.32"×24tpi; Miche would fit but nobody in their right mind would use one. Mavic certainly won't. Phil Wood will fit Campag.

Genuine Campag Pista axles are £25 from http://www.campyoldy.co.uk/stocklist.htm, track nuts are a further £25 for a pair.

Use a soldering iron to melt out the old solder and take off the tieing wire, it's not doing any good and it will stop you from successfully re-dishing the wheel

I'm on a winning streak this week.

"So far I haven't crashed this week, and not broken anything worth mentioning."

Fingers crossed...

I'm currently riding SPD. I find the play uncomfortable and wish to upgrade to SPD-SL. Is there a chance of unclipping with the SL when skidding? I don't have any experience with that.

upgrade to Time ATACs

Keep your shoes.

the ATAC is also a MTB pedal. Since I mostly do longer rides and not coffeeshop runs, I thought the SL would also transfer more power to the pedals. I also ride a road bike but currently with the normal SPD's. Nice for walking but perhaps not the best thing for riding (I find the play annoying)? That's why I wanted to know if the SL's can dismount when skidding.

With SPD-SL pedals set to maximum tension you're clipped in, particularly with "no flow" cleats. Never say never, but I can't possibly imagine you would unclip during skidding, it certainly hasn't happened to me. In short, with SPD-SL you're clipped in.

There's always straps if you're worried

the ATAC is also a MTB pedal. Since I mostly do longer rides and not coffeeshop runs, I thought the SL would also transfer more power to the pedals. I also ride a road bike but currently with the normal SPD's. Nice for walking but perhaps not the best thing for riding (I find the play annoying)? That's why I wanted to know if the SL's can dismount when skidding.

Time ATAC man, SPD-SL can unclip and has for a couple of people I've known, longer rides are fine in time ATACs. If you're going for road pedals imo keos are far nicer than SPD-SL.

With SPD-SL pedals set to maximum tension you're clipped in, particularly with "no flow" cleats. Never say never, but I can't possibly imagine you would unclip during skidding, it certainly hasn't happened to me. In short, with SPD-SL you're clipped in.

Can't recommend the no float for skidding myself, I used the 5 degree and they were ok but at the end of the day I'm much happier with my keos.

And Keo users now have a hard-core option:

1 Attachment

Is that the new aero model?

Mother of god, I must resist.

I know I'll snap the blade, if not by skidding by standing on it or something.

Is that the new aero model?

It's the new Blade 2, now in 3 flavours (12Nm, 16Nm, 20Nm). Look claims it's more aero than the old Blade. Playing "guess the flow field" is a mugs game, but I'm still going to guess that it would take very good instrumentation to separate the Blade 2 from my Blade Aero.

Keo's, I've actually never heard of those before. Never seen them before either. I'll look into that. Thank you all for the tips. I appreciate it.

"No consensus then, leaving me a square 'fucking' one. Thanks for nothing guys."

Glad we could be of assistance ;)

So much fail.

You can't use a non-Campag axle because Campag axle thread pitch is 26tpi, not the 1.0mm used by most other people.

Campag lockrings are 1.32"×24tpi; Miche would fit but nobody in their right mind would use one. Mavic certainly won't. Phil Wood will fit Campag.

Genuine Campag Pista axles are £25 from http://www.campyoldy.co.uk/stocklist.htm, track nuts are a further £25 for a pair.

Use a soldering iron to melt out the old solder and take off the tieing wire, it's not doing any good and it will stop you from successfully re-dishing the wheel

Thanks for this.

what if I use non-campag axle and cones to avoid thread compatibility problems... I appreciate this would be a bit of a shame though...

I was also wondering, if I use the wheels as they are (road mode), can I potentially damage the hub thread; being a track hub there is less thread for the block to sit on, I have a bad feeling about this...

I was also wondering, if I use the wheels as they are (road mode), can I potentially damage the hub thread; being a track hub there is less thread for the block to sit on, I have a bad feeling about this...

I suppose you could, because with a multiple freewheel you'll often be applying a big bending moment in addition to the drive torque, due to most of the sprockets being outboard of the support.

Using non-Campag cones might work if they are designed for the same number and size of balls as the Campag ones, but aside from being a shame and a risk it also means much research finding the right match, and then the cone and locknut depth will probably be wrong so you'll need to find spacers to get the OLN right.

It all seems like ten times as much hassle as you need

finally my landlady has had enough of my rotten door, so she is gonna buy me a new one. The deal with her has always been I get things like these sorted and claim money back from her etc. so anyone knows any good contacts in South London, or anyone will do a job in South London. Cheers

Any problems using non-lezyne branded 18650s in their lights?

Any problems using non-lezyne branded 18650s in their lights?

Considering Lezyne don't actually produce Li-ion cells, if they're really dead you could peel off the plastic covers and see if there is OEM branding on the cells...

Calling all Scobles! I need mudguard advice.

What's my best option on a hardtail 29" MTB (Hary Mary SS) for commuting? I have one of those seat post mounted SKS Crossblade style ones. Would a downtube style clip on one provide any real protection or do I need something more like a traditional front road/touring guard?

Is there an accepted best solution? Will be running 2" Swalbe winter spikes through snow, so likely to need decent clearance.