Any question answered...

Philips 'True Temper Steel' frame, mid 1950s, black. What kind of paint is it ? It has the feel of some kind of plastic coating, but surely it can't be ?

More specifically, what should I use to touch in the small areas where 'patina' has deteriorated into 'too damaged to live with' ? I want to avoid compatibility issues...

mdcc_tester thanks I've sent him a PM

I don't have a hole for a rear brake on my track bike and I don't want to damage my frame. I do need a rear brake for my holiday. Is there a way to mount a brake without damaging my frame?

Where is best in Central/City for a service on a pair of Mavic Krysiums? Needs to be this week, so I'm assuming most LBS won't have the parts...

My next road build will be have disc brakes so that I can have crabon clinchers, and corner mountains descents at a decent speed for once.

Do disc brakes come with a big set of balls too?

I've not tried using my balls to brake yet - How effective are they on damp carbon rims with taped on tubs?

You'll have to ask one of the buyers. I prefer to corner fast using ye olde worlde clinchers and cable rim brakes.

Philips 'True Temper Steel' frame, mid 1950s, black. What kind of paint is it ? It has the feel of some kind of plastic coating, but surely it can't be ?

More specifically, what should I use to touch in the small areas where 'patina' has deteriorated into 'too damaged to live with' ? I want to avoid compatibility issues...

I would imagine it is almost certainly Stove Enamel. If you can get some Humbrol or similar paint from a modelling shop you should be able to brush that or airbrush, if you have one. Stove enamel is pretty impervious to most things so straight forward spray cans should be fine as they don't use the harsher solvents of old. Try under the bottom bracket first to see if there is a problem with whatever you end up using. In a previous life I worked for ICI Paints but there again you shouldn't trust the old bill and I am an utter c.......

By stove enamel do you mean an enamel paint that is cured at 'high' temperature or something more like engine enamel which is intended for use on things (such as engines!) which will get hot ? Or is it all the same?

Humbrol paints are something I have and will try once cleaning is complete...

As an aside, did your previous life have anything to do with apparent changes to paint solvents / concerns over VOC ?

Is there a way of working out how long it takes freshly boiled water to cool to 80 degrees?

Or does anyone who makes green tea just already know the answer?

I'm sure there is a way to calculate it, but there will be a lot of variables to consider.
I'd suggest that the easiest way to do it is to set up a cup of boiled water (using your usual cup in your typical tea making environment) and measure the time taken for it to drop to 80 degrees C. Use this time for future reference.
Or just guess.

Is there a way of working out how long it takes freshly boiled water to cool to 80 degrees?

Or does anyone who makes green tea just already know the answer?

Some things I do know...

It will depend on, amongst other things:

• mass of water
  
• thermal conductivity of container
  
• contact surface area of container
  
• exposed liquid surface area
  

• ambient (air) temperature
  The bottom line is that any calculation is likely to be less accurate than a test run with a thermometer and a stopwatch.

  • and Landslide is quicker than I am.
    

By stove enamel do you mean an enamel paint that is cured at 'high' temperature or something more like engine enamel which is intended for use on things (such as engines!) which will get hot ? Or is it all the same?

Humbrol paints are something I have and will try once cleaning is complete...

As an aside, did your previous life have anything to do with apparent changes to paint solvents / concerns over VOC ?

Yes paint cured at high temp, baked on.
I worked in raw materials and then pigment studies. I cannot be held responsible for the reduction volatile solvents though my lab would have done the work, probably. They were using lots of really bad stuff in the late 70s/early 80s. You were lucky to live long enough to retire.

Is there a way of working out how long it takes freshly boiled water to cool to 80 degrees?

Or does anyone who makes green tea just already know the answer?

Green tea is fucking disgusting. Don't do it.

Ha!

I'm enjoying my Dragon Well right now.

Thanks, all pretty much what I expected. Oh well I guess I just have to buy a thermometer.

Yes paint cured at high temp, baked on.
I worked in raw materials and then pigment studies. I cannot be held responsible for the reduction volatile solvents though my lab would have done the work, probably. They were using lots of really bad stuff in the late 70s/early 80s. You were lucky to live long enough to retire.

Thanks for the replies - it must have been difficult to balance workforce mortality against 'better' paint!
I have hazy recollections regarding chlorinated solvents and using Finnegans' No.1 and / or Hammerite when refurbishing lab equipment in the early 80s - cause and effect? Most of the headaches blurry vision etc. were blamed on local beer and the Prime Minister of the time...

Stumbled at the first hurdle starting to build this...

I don't have the correct size allen key for the seat tube clamp bolt, seems to be in between 5mm and 6mm? My imperial set don't fit either. Is it most likely to be a 5.5mm?

... and can anyone direct me to a set that includes a 5.5mm and a 7mm?

Have an odd size bolt on a Cinelli stem as well, which I think may be 7.

5.5mm here:

Icetoolz 5.5mm Hex Spoke Wrench and 5mm Hex Key: Amazon.co.uk: Sports & Outdoors

"Tea, Green tea in particular, is fucking disgusting. Don't do it."

This!

fuck it ordered a 5.5 and a 7 hopefully get lucky... no Mercian till they arrive though ):

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/30PC-HEX-KEY-SET-HEX-ALLEN-ALAN-ALLAN-KEY-SET-IN-STORAGE-CASE-AF-METRIC-/300924429533?pt=UK_Hand_Tools_Equipment&hash=item46107e64dd

Damn Apollo, that is perfect, annoyingly just ordered some others but may have to get that as well in case, may come in handy occasionally...

Could just be a worn out 5mm. Does it look like someone's chewed it?

Stumbled at the first hurdle starting to build this...

I don't have the correct size allen key for the seat tube clamp bolt, seems to be in between 5mm and 6mm? My imperial set don't fit either. Is it most likely to be a 5.5mm?
All Mercian seat pin bolts use a 7/32" Allen key

Has anyone ever used an HMRC Enquiry Centre? Do they have any power? I suspect not. I need to get a P60 to HMRC (I don't understand why they don't have the electronic version), but there's a 4-5 week "answering period" for mail. It'd be nice if I could just walk up and show them the fucker so they could give me my money with all due haste.