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I didn't see the paypal option when I put the deets in. I see one nefarious outfit here.

One for tester.. how many of this mob's claims are true/bogus? Lots of funky equipment, lots of graphs - how much difference will their magic chains, etc. make?

http://www.friction-facts.com/equipment

@ewanmac: do you have spoke key with you? to get you home just get roughly true side-to-side to stop it rubbing on the wheel, sort the finer details later.

imagine looking from the nipple end of the spokes towards the hub, turn clockwise to tighten, anti-clockwise to loosen. find the patch that rubs worst, loosen the spoke closest to that point, on the side it leans towards. tighten the closest spoke on the side it leans away from. don't go crazy, maybe do half turns to those, then quarter turns on the next ones further out. check repeat.

Awesome - thanks for that. In the end I completely released the front brake and rode home with a wobbly wheel. I think any attempt I may have made at truing may have made it worse :). On the way home I stopped by the lbs who straightened things out again but they said that the wheel was near-dead as they had already had to reshape it pretty vigorously after a crash. May be on the lookout for a new front wheel for the training bike soon.

Currently learning to drive and hope to take my theory test next month. What book/software is regarded as the best to use? Is it simply a case of going with the official DSA products? There's so much crap out there.

My parents' PC (2-3 years old, Vista) is crawling now and although I have gotten rid of a lot of bloatware, toolbars and the like and stripped back what opens at startup, it really could do with a fresh OS install. No idea where the Vista disk is but I'll be damned if I'm putting that on there again.

So the question is, I will most likely buy a full version of Windows 7 (rather than an upgrade version of 8 as I don't want to have to fanny around with putting on a lower OS again if I ever have to re-install in the future). I can get 7 for around £50, which I am happy with, however I don't know the ins and outs and differences between the 32 and 64 bit versions.

What are the benefits/pit falls/differences between the two?

Currently learning to drive and hope to take my theory test next month. What book/software is regarded as the best to use? Is it simply a case of going with the official DSA products? There's so much crap out there.

gf just used the normal books.

My parents' PC (2-3 years old, Vista) is crawling now and although I have gotten rid of a lot of bloatware, toolbars and the like and stripped back what opens at startup, it really could do with a fresh OS install. No idea where the Vista disk is but I'll be damned if I'm putting that on there again.

So the question is, I will most likely buy a full version of Windows 7 (rather than an upgrade version of 8 as I don't want to have to fanny around with putting on a lower OS again if I ever have to re-install in the future). I can get 7 for around £50, which I am happy with, however I don't know the ins and outs and differences between the 32 and 64 bit versions.

What are the benefits/pit falls/differences between the two?

For average Joe.. not much. 64-bit will allow machines to address more than 3gb of RAM.

http://www.zdnet.com/blog/hardware/clearing-up-the-3264-bit-memory-limit-confusion/3124

Is there a way to find out what my product key is for Microsoft Office once I have lost the little bit of card with it on that I bought with my laptop when it was new?

Is there a way to find out what my product key is for Microsoft Office once I have lost the little bit of card with it on that I bought with my laptop when it was new?

There is software that will find it for you but I can't recall its name. You should try this google thing..

https://www.google.co.uk/search?q=get+ms+windows+key&ie=utf-8&oe=utf-8&aq=t&rls=org.mozilla:en-US:official&client=firefox-a

For average Joe.. not much. 64-bit will allow machines to address more than 3gb of RAM.

Aha, brilliant, thanks. One of the other plans was to upgrade/increase their RAM so that's good to know.

So, if the choice is there for no difference in cost, which should I go for?

I put an upgrade version of 7 on my own PC and went for 32bit. I have not noticed any problems with that but I don't know if I am missing anything as never used 64. No idea if it prohibits the use of any programs or older hardware etc (which I vaguely recall being my completely guessed and most likely unnecessary reason for opting for 32bit on my own machine).

I have 4gb of RAM in all my machines so always go for 64-bit. I barely touch all that RAM though.
The only time I go close is at work running multiple Visual Studios, SQL server and lots of browsers and browser windows and this machine has 8gb or in it anyway.

I don't play games or edit video or large images. More RAM plays bigger part here.

ive upgraded my 5 year old laptops ram to 4gig and the damn thing is still slow.

i have installed commodo everything and trying to track down the hidden easteregg thats causing the issue.

other than installing linex, what can i do to speed my cold lizzard of a pc? how do i streamline the process?

Is there a way to find out what my product key is for Microsoft Office once I have lost the little bit of card with it on that I bought with my laptop when it was new?

http://www.magicaljellybean.com/downloads/KeyFinderInstaller.exe

ive upgraded my 5 year old laptops ram to 4gig and the damn thing is still slow.
i have installed commodo everything and trying to track down the hidden easteregg thats causing the issue.
other than installing linex, what can i do to speed my cold lizzard of a pc? how do i streamline the process?

What is it running? Windows?
If you've got max ram and have reinstalled the OS then the next step would typically be an SSD unless your CPU is shite but most people don't push their kit. What about it exactly is 'slow'?

Windows 64 XP (it refuses to allow me to upgrade to 7 even though i have bought the damn software).

Its running max ram (infact its about .2 over the max)

Watching movies is jumpy when i do anything other than watch the movie. Response time is archaicly slow.

prefer not to do the below but...
Is it time to Linex it? Or just buy a new pc?

Do you have a full installer of Win7 as opposed to just an upgrade?
If so I would backup, format, clean install Win7. If not, you might be able to upgrade to Vista and then upgrade to Win7, assuming you can find a Vista install (I had one somewhere).

It sounds to me like you have something messing with your video drivers. Have you got the latest drivers installed for your video card?
Are there any hardware conflicts being repoerted in Device Manager?

What are these 'other things' you're doing when watching movies? (No this isn't a reference to wanking over porn, that bit's assumed)

i think its only the upgrade. Its one of those 'buy online from windows' jobbies. The issue is i never got my 1st instal cd and had to 'borrow' an ex-colleagues. For some reason, that expired and so i went more legit and bought the upgrade which refused to work.

I like to surf the WWW basically. Mulitasking through the makeout scenes and the boring Cinema Nueve crap.

There is software that will find it for you but I can't recall its name. You should try this google thing..

https://www.google.co.uk/search?q=get+ms+windows+key&ie=utf-8&oe=utf-8&aq=t&rls=org.mozilla:en-US:official&client=firefox-a

Thanks for googling that for me!

You can do a full install with the upgrade version of Windows 7, you will just have to supply your old OS Key when prompted (after you have entered your upgrade key).

well, as stated, thats not really possible..

You can do a full install with the upgrade version of Windows 7, you will just have to supply your old OS Key when prompted (after you have entered your upgrade key).

I've only ever used full version. MSDN lic.

http://winsupersite.com/article/windows-7/clean-install-windows-7-with-upgrade-media-128512

well, as stated, thats not really possible..

But surely you have the upgrade key?
Just use someone elses disc or get a cough version to install with?

One for tester.. how many of this mob's claims are true/bogus? Lots of funky equipment, lots of graphs - how much difference will their magic chains, etc. make?

http://www.friction-facts.com/equipment

It's tl;dr while I'm on the phone, but a back of a fag packet calcultion gives 6W total drivetrain loss for a clean, new, oiled roller chain based on 98% efficiency and 300W at the crank. It's really hard to halve the losses in a roller chain, so any claim to save you more than 3W can immediately be dismissed as marketing BS. I've already listed 3 of the 4 known methods of optimization, the last one is increasing the radius of curvature where the chain bends. For fixengers, that means about 1W saved by going from 44/11 to 64/16 (I did this calculation many years ago using software called Xchain or something similar, again I'm not at my desk), for derailleur users there is a small gain to be had from larger pulleys, but again no more than 1W. Ordinary nickel plated steel chain plus ordinary oil is already very good, exotic coatings and lubricants can barely improve on it when new, although some of them can make the "new condition" properties last longer they tend to do so at such a cost that in simple materials purchase terms you're better off replacing cheap chains frequently (see Dr Hutch)

But surely you have the upgrade key?
Just use someone elses disc or get a cough version to install with?

Fine if it were my machine (this is how mine is working currently) bit my folks are in another country and I'm only there a couple of times a year so would rather it was all clean and didn't require any farting about afterwards (WGA pop ups and what have you)

Is there any point to instagram beyond being "Photograph sharing for dummies"?