Any question answered...

Thanks all who recommended glues for broken headphones. Landed up using a lot of JB Weld and gorilla tape and so far so good

Pics or it didn’t happen 😀

This?

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Nifty idea, thanks. Does the camera remain powered when in parked mode to allow you to use the live view via an app or is it just for the impact "parking guard" feature? If it's the latter it says it won't work on mine without a constant power cable accessory. I'm assuming it draws less power when in parked mode? There's a live 12V to the stereo i could use but i prefer your plug in solution i'm just worried how much i'll need to be charging it.

Does the camera remain powered when in parked mode to allow you to use the live view via an app or is it just for the impact "parking guard" feature?

Because it's permanently powered from the power bank, the dashcam knows nothing of the ignition status so it runs constantly in driving mode even when the engine is off.
I take the power bank out when I'm at home, it needs charging about every third or fourth night based on being out and about 7-8hrs a day. If you wanted to record all the time (e.g. you park over night on the street), you'd probably want two powerbanks and would swap them out daily.

1/2 Which of these 2 options

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2/2 equates to this please?

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3/2 and although it says 5v, it takes 4x1.5v AA's so 6v on the adapter won't fry it, right?

Might. Depends on what the transformer gives out. For example lots of 12v stuff can be up to 14.4v.

The battery powered bit and the mains bit may have different correction to required volts and amps

I'll try source a proper psu. Or find an old Nokia charger maybe.

Thanks btw.

What are you trying to power from a universal supply. It may be ok. Stuff I have dealt with, if not sensitive has been fine.

Am wary of things that are either expensive or hard to replace either releasing the trapped smoke or being a fire hazard a danger.

As I get older and electronics get more sensitive. I'd open it up and see if there was an easily replaced glass fuse. Im overtly cautious after breaking stuff in the past. Maybe causing the odd fire.

The 2nd one, probably, with the positive at the tip and the negative at the sleeve.

It's a portable 4-track recorder. I'll not chance it and seek a proper PSU for it, google on audio forums is my friend for this I guess

Going to take no chances with it!

See what others have done, and learn from their mistakes.

Not dealt with a 4 track recorder but with record decks it can be hit and miss. But even then the issue is the wrong speed.

Audio is a whole load of magic, apart from amps as they aren't that fussy. Sorry if I'm coming across as a niegh sayer. But with audio stuff there is lots of smoke to release ;)

Alkaline AA batteries quickly drop below 1.5V so stick some in that have already been used a bit and you'll be much closer to 5V.

https://www.researchgate.net/figure/Discharge-curve-of-a-Duracell-alkaline-AA-cell-50-mA-constant-current-from_fig1_258645674

The obvious if it might be a bit delicate is to get a multimeter and test it.

Sorry if I'm coming across as a niegh sayer

You're certainly sounding a little horse, but that's not to naysay your advice to be cautious with old gear, which tends to be more fussy about input voltage than modern stuff.

I'm a beautiful farabella.

Edit - it is falabella, I thought it was farabella since I first met one. Today I have learnt something.

May be with pigmy traits.

farabella

Your spelling has gone awry, it must be pasta your bed time

guys, ever had the keys from a D lock (kryptonite) become worn (keys are super loose in there) ? i have massive trouble to open and close the lock.... even with new lubricant in there.... new lock time? or kryptonite can send you new keys? or its just dead?
thx

Kryptonite can make new keys, can't remember if you need a code from when you bought the look though

thx! there is a form online on their site to do this! ...it takes 2 to 3 months time to reply.... will have to get another lock i guess, thx for the reply!