Any question answered...

Haha, unfortunately i had it wrong as this a boring old 135mm RS 505 hub.

is about 54mm

Ouch i was hoping to pair it with some Rotor 1X cranks that are around 44mm, doesn't sound like a good match to me. Would a 5800 crankset with a NW ring on the outer position and maybe a few shims work better? Chainline is listed as 43.5mm but i'm assuming that's measured between inner and outer?

Would also need to think about securing it properly, pretty sure i have an old XT qr somewhere but maybe there's a steel bolt up skewer that isn't trash like the Halo etc?

Front disc hub will be cheap and work great, with chain line between 41-46mm ish depending on dishing and spacers used. Convert with new threaded axle and a selection of spacers.

135mm RS 505 hub

Then it's worse, about 56mm chain line from memory, though my great age means my memory is failing and I might be out by 2.5mm, most likely in your favour*

As suggested, converting a front hub is a better solution and not hard. I favour the 15×110 boost hubs as the 46.5mm chain line works well with the ~47mm chain line of the big ring on a road double. A 9×100 or 20×110 spaced 5mm to the right gives the same chain line and near dishless build, but with slightly less flange spacing (but still better than the DS of a rear hub)

*I was right about both the magnitude and sign of my memory failure. A 3mm thick 6-bolt sprocket on a 135mm rear hub gives a chain line of 54mm

Chainline is listed as 43.5mm but i'm assuming that's measured between inner and outer?

Yes, the actual rings are ~±4mm from that

Anywhere in London or East Anglia like https://thebristolbikeproject.org/get-involved/donate-a-bike/ ?

Got lots of old bits that could do with a second life.

https://www.papworthtrust.org.uk/owl-bikes/ in Cambridge?

Paging @Thrasher

Do you think this is the move, going coach and then train? Looking at how feasible it is to go to Rome on public transport at the moment the eurostar bumps up the cost, flixbus looks cheaper but overnight

This place looks great, thanks

Yeah exactly Eurostar outgoing is the big cost. We decided the coach was too risky (recent reviews pretty dismal and no choice in operators) so we've booked a super cheap daytime train to Newhaven, then a middle of the night ferry to Dieppe, early morning train to Paris. The connection at Rouen is a bit tight.

The timing of the ferry is shit for sleeping but looks more comfy than the bus and hopefully more reliable.

I have a weight on a length of threaded rod, that pivots around point P.

If I attach another weight at the top of the rod what affect would this have?

3 Attachments

I'm hoping it would oscillate/swing for longer. But I don't want to go to the effort of making more weights unnecessarily

Nothing about how long the pendulum will continue to swing
https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Pendulum
Must be proportional to the air redistance.
Make the weight in an aero shape rather than a circular cross section?

hoping it would oscillate/swing for longer

Yes, in the sense that mass and therefore force increases as the cube of dimension but drag only by the square.

By adding mass at the top, you're decreasing the effective length, which would shorten the period in the case of an ideal pendulum, but you're increasing the moment of inertia so the simple pendulum approximation doesn't apply and you need to do grown up maths.

TL;DR: Add mass at the bottom, it's simpler and will have less effect on the period

I put a weight on the top and it swang for less time.

Follow up question. For a fixed weight, by moving P nearer to the top of the rod will it swing for longer?

Great to see someone making a clock from scratch. What happens when you want to open the drawer?

Time it precisely

Time it precisely

*subscribes

Moving my di2 142-spaced bike onto Kickr for first time and shifting is way out. Cassette is 2mm out of alignment and there isn’t enough space on the Kickr freehub to allow me to use a cassette spacer and thread the lock ring on.

It requires -15 adjustment on the E-tube app to make it work.

Surely I don’t need to adjust the di2 every time I put the bike on, or do I? Madness if so.

Hi all, new to SRAM as I thought I might try it out on this bike build instead of di2 for a change

Issue I’m having is on my SRAM Rival Axs rear derailleur, every now and again it doesn’t shift and instead just does a beeping noise which slowly decreases in spacing between beeps. It is then potluck whether it will shift again straight after or do the same thing again, but maybe 10 seconds later or an opposite shift to what I want it will then work… until next time.

Is this normal for SRAM Axs? Or is it a dodgy one and how would I go about resolving it with sram?

Any help would be appreciated.

Is there a thread for cycle clothing?
Is there a forum approved cheap bib short for those with chunky legs who like a decent pad? Ordered some DHB and had to send them straight back as they're awful, tight and feel cheap as fuck (they were tbf).

I have a Loxone Miniserver Go that I don't need (and don't understand what it is or does). It appears to retail for £385 excl vat. Where should I go to sell it second hand? There are none on eBay which suggests not there...

I had this to a degree with the tacx neo. I solved by taking the "axle" part out and putting a few washers behind the freehub body. Dunno if that's possible with the kickr.

Thanks. I solved it by changing a part in the axle spacer stack. The Kickr instructions for the new spacer set are quite opaque but if you mix and match you get there in the end.

is this a bargain for someone?
https://www.bikester.ch/serious-gravix-grx-pro-M1160858.html?vgid=G1716257&_cid=21_1_-1_9_445_1716257__pla&campaign_detail=smart_shopping&utm_source=google&utm_medium=cpc&utm_campaign=adw_19793616707&gclid=CjwKCAjw8symBhAqEiwAaTA__BxBdxvuxNOr6Edvtqs4MeyvRvQp4DB0hPcKssc_rW5Aom3TmGqklhoCf50QAvD_BwE