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  • Marc, if it's threaded you want, I have a chrome set in good nick that I'd be prepared to swap for brake or saddle...

  • Matt that sounds like a reeeeet good deal and you might just save me some teeth in doing so, the bend is now quite ridiculous.

    I'll swap for both, the brake is sweet, and I'll chuck in the white saddle ?

    Let me know mate

  • Any idea on the steerer / threaded area length ?

  • I'm after a crank and chain ring,the chainset i'm using at mo is a double which was on the bike when i got it,but is buggered now so need to swap........But it gets complicated cos the crank is 165mm and i get alot of toe overlap so want to go shorter and the chainring is 42t but does anyone know what crank/chainring combo i would need then to keep the gearing im using at the mo,oh the rear is 14t by the way. The bottom bracket is i think 110mm but is old style cup and axel that seems fine.
    any help/advice muchos appreciated....oh i don't want to spend alot

  • I'm after a crank and chain ring,the chainset i'm using at mo is a double which was on the bike when i got it,but is buggered now so need to swap........But it gets complicated cos the crank is 165mm and i get alot of toe overlap so want to go shorter and the chainring is 42t but does anyone know what crank/chainring combo i would need then to keep the gearing im using at the mo,oh the rear is 14t by the way. The bottom bracket is i think 110mm but is old style cup and axel that seems fine.
    any help/advice muchos appreciated....oh i don't want to spend alot

    For a start, that chainring/sprocket combo gives you one skid patch if I'm not very much mistaken, so that's the first thing I'd change. Also good luck finding cranks much shorter than 165. I don't think changing the crank length by 5mm or something is going to make much difference to the way the gearing feels. Sorry that's a bit negative.

    Marc, I'll measure steerer length tonight and let you know

  • [QUOTE=Hamatt;1016802]For a start, that chainring/sprocket combo gives you one skid patch if I'm not very much mistaken, so that's the first thing I'd change. Also good luck finding cranks much shorter than 165. I don't think changing the crank length by 5mm or something is going to make much difference to the way the gearing feels. Sorry that's a bit negative.QUOTE]

    What do you meanone skid patch?surely no matter what gearing you would wear the same part of the tyre down? or am i just being completely blonde 'ere. So what about a 38t/14t combo? bit easier on the legs uh

  • I'm after a crank and chain ring,the chainset i'm using at mo is a double which was on the bike when i got it,but is buggered now so need to swap........But it gets complicated cos the crank is 165mm and i get alot of toe overlap so want to go shorter and the chainring is 42t but does anyone know what crank/chainring combo i would need then to keep the gearing im using at the mo,oh the rear is 14t by the way. The bottom bracket is i think 110mm but is old style cup and axel that seems fine.
    any help/advice muchos appreciated....oh i don't want to spend alot

    with that gear ratio you're pushing 80 or so gear inches (a lot) with one skid patch as matt pointed out. if you want to reduce toe overlap a different pedal set up might help - clipless pedals like SPDs or egg beaters with the cleat on the shoe as far forward as possible helps but generally its pretty difficult to irradicate without changing the forks. to be honest you just get used to it and as long as pedal strike isn't bad you just learn to lean in rather than steer when cornering.

    what frame is it like?

  • [QUOTE=Hamatt;1016802]For a start, that chainring/sprocket combo gives you one skid patch if I'm not very much mistaken, so that's the first thing I'd change. Also good luck finding cranks much shorter than 165. I don't think changing the crank length by 5mm or something is going to make much difference to the way the gearing feels. Sorry that's a bit negative.

    What do you meanone skid patch?surely no matter what gearing you would wear the same part of the tyre down? or am i just being completely blonde 'ere. So what about a 38t/14t combo? bit easier on the legs uh[/QUOTE]

    the amount of skid patches you get completely depends on the gear ratio.
    you can check 2 ways either by using the simplification rule - you treat the ratio as a fraction eg 42/14 and simplify until you can't any more. so 42/14 becomes 3/1 meaning one skid patch, 46/20 becomes 23/10 = 10 skid patches and so on.

    or you can just use this thing which tells you your gear inches as well
    http://software.bareknucklebrigade.com/rabbit.applet.html

    38/14 gets you 7 skid patches and is about 71 gear inches which is a fair bit softer but by no means a spinny ratio.

  • the amount of skid patches you get completely depends on the gear ratio.
    you can check 2 ways either by using the simplification rule - you treat the ratio as a fraction eg 42/14 and simplify until you can't any more. so 42/14 becomes 3/1 meaning one skid patch, 46/20 becomes 23/10 = 10 skid patches and so on.

    or you can just use this thing which tells you your gear inches as well
    http://software.bareknucklebrigade.com/rabbit.applet.html

    38/14 gets you 7 skid patches and is about 71 gear inches which is a fair bit softer but by no means a spinny ratio.

    aha it's all becoming clear,well kinda. Just haven't a clue what gearing really,i don't want to change hub as that is new so the only thing i can change is the chain ring,i'm happy with the gearing i already have......just could do with shorter crank if i can.

    But thanks v much for advice guys appreciate it...

  • aha it's all becoming clear,well kinda. Just haven't a clue what gearing really,i don't want to change hub as that is new so the only thing i can change is the chain ring,i'm happy with the gearing i already have......just could do with shorter crank if i can.

    But thanks v much for advice guys appreciate it...

    why can't you change the sprocket?

  • why can't you change the sprocket?

    I could but thats new as well,and the chainring is FUBAR'ed so don't want to spend money on that "IF" i don't need to.....but i do accept that is an option though,if you know what i mean....money a bit tight at the mo

  • Any idea on the steerer / threaded area length ?

    Ok, so the bare steerer is 100mm with 105mm of thread on top of that

  • That is PERFECT Matt ! What you upto tomorrow ??

  • Matt, forks are wicked. Loving the look, cheers !

    Also, Billy is selling this, it's super nice, and the parts on it are all very good. Anyone looking for a full bike could do a lot worse...

    http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=300363216057&ssPageName=STRK:MESELX:IT#ht_500wt_1182

  • Marc, saw them on your bike outside the Cluny on Saturday night - fast worker. At the bottom of the pile so couldn't judge the aesthetic. Glad they're alright though. Got my polo bike fixed up within an hour of getting home too. Lever clamp too small so share and share alike - if anyone needs a brake lever for a small (inch?) bar size, I have it (only needed the caliper anyway). Or if you want it back Marc...

  • Matt, forks are wicked. Loving the look, cheers !

    Also, Billy is selling this, it's super nice, and the parts on it are all very good. Anyone looking for a full bike could do a lot worse...

    http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=300363216057&ssPageName=STRK:MESELX:IT#ht_500wt_1182

    Pretty sure my mate will buy that bike.
    He's looking for his first fixed and he needs a large frame.
    We're in Newcastle so it'd save on postage.

    Also, anyone have a crankset I could buy? Square tapered. Anywhere between 38-46t really.
    I'm currently running a 50t TA on stronglight cranks but I'm missing a couple of bolts and it's doing my head in! Along with the mega high gear lol >90gi

    Posted in Wanted: http://www.londonfgss.com/thread32516.html

  • Also, anyone have a crankset I could buy? Square tapered. Anywhere between 38-46t really.
    I'm currently running a 50t TA on stronglight cranks but I'm missing a couple of bolts and it's doing my head in! Along with the mega high gear lol >90gi

    You know you don't need to shell out for a whole new crankset right? Chainring bolts = £5.

    Having said that, On One are doing 1/8" Stronglight cranksets for about £40 at the mo so maybe check out their website.

  • i saw his cranks and they have a weird non standard thread for crank remover, id go for new cranks.

  • I think I might get some of those Stronglight ones. Still need a new 1/8" chainring and ruling out Alan's BMX because they're the wrong pcd, have found f all under about £30. Might as well spend the extra tenner and have a spare...

  • i saw his cranks and they have a weird non standard thread for crank remover, id go for new cranks.

    Yea, non standard thread for crank remover AND non standard sized chainring bolts!
    A lose lose situation!

  • Right some parts for sale or swap for below don't mind, see pic, will have some better 105 stuff later on to shift too.

    Red Selle Italia Titanium railled saddle, fairly worn but life in it yet, £8
    Black Selle Italia ISCA saddle, good condition, £4
    Solida light Crankset 52T square tapered, slightly untrue I think or my BB, £6
    ITM Quill Stem, £3
    Top mount lever, £1
    x2 Bottle cages, £1
    U Pedals, £2
    ITM Alloy drops, some marks will be fine wrapped, £3
    Other drops, Free to a good home
    25.8mm seat post and clamp, £2
    Small flange front hub, Sturmey archer, great cond, I have the rear still on a wheel, rear is thread on, £8 pair will seperate.
    Large flange Front U hub, I have the rear thread on also at 120mm spacing but still on a wheel, £4 pair, need regrease.

    Ok I need for my girlfriends bike to following to swap etc

    Grips for MTB style bars, pref black / red
    Cross top levers 26mm, or other type pair of levers
    1" headset dont need top bottom cups
    Lightweight if poss and good cond cottered crank set 42t - 48t with cotter pins
    Cnc spacers kit for a shimano freehub for singlespeed, and a cog betwwen 17-19 depending on the cottered crank teeth, currently running 48 so 19 would be ideal.

    Get in touch, collection jesmond, or could meet you etc, jonny


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  • Jonny, I'll take those bottle cages if you've still got. Unfortunatley my offerings are not great but I have a single bmx-style brake lever which I think will work at 26mm. I also have a 46t cotter crank set. Have unfortunately lost the pins. I'm in Jesmond too. Matt

  • Oh yeah, and does anyone have a front wheel that needs a new home? Going on the polo bike so doesn't have to be mint

  • i'll take that stem.

  • Oh yeah, and does anyone have a front wheel that needs a new home? Going on the polo bike so doesn't have to be mint

    I have a 26" MTB front wheel if that's any good?

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Newcastle Classifieds

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