What feels like the cranks skipping a beat

I'm running 44 - 15 at the moment but I don't know how relevant that is to my issue though?

I did check the threads for shavings or broken threads, was fine though, made sure I screwed the cog on 100% properly too along the right threads.

I did some uphill (ish) riding with the lockring on loose and the cog on hand tight then tightened up the lockring after, was nice and tight. But then I just did the rotafix method (to tighten) and managed to get about another quarter turn out of the cog, and then re-tightened the lockring. So I guess it's now as secure as it's even going to be and I never get this problem again! I'd highly recommend the rotafix method!

I was experiencing something like this, and pinned it down to a bit of slack in the chain...

I could live with it, until bombing down a hill yesterday at full tilt, and the chain decided to drop off the chainring. luckily didn't get stuck in the spokes and shred my lovely new wheel, it just locked my back wheel up, resulting in the mother of all skids, lasting about 30 or 40 metres fishtailing all over the shop I was bricking it. (busy main road in rush hour with cars passing at 40-50mph) Finally slid to a halt and checked my tire, surprised it looked ok.. then saw how it had gone through to the casing and was completley flat for about 4 inches. It was a bumpy ride home!

So anyway way question 1 :

I'm guessing the chain dropping off was due to it being slack, but does anyone have a good method for getting really good chain tension? I'm running an old bob jackson frame, with front loading horizontal drop outs. I just can seem to get the chain super tight?

Question 2: Anyone know any good strong and cheapish tires? I've been running 23c s but could fit something a bit bigger, not too big and slow though, but something that won't die if i do a40 metre 30 mph skid? (which is pretty unlikely i have to admit, but would be nice to know the option was there.)

All help would be greatly appreciated, cheers!

That sounds pretty scary dude!! Glad you're alright!

To get chain tension pretty good I flip my bike over, grab the rim with one hand, get a foot up against the frame and pull the wheel back as hard as I can and then hand tighten the bolts. Keep pulling though and have the correct spanner to hand and tighten them up fully. Make sure the wheel is straight too. Usually works okay for me!

Worst thing is my problem happened again the other day! Even though I thought it had gone forever! Oh well, I rotafix'd it again and hammer+screwdriver'd the lockring, so I hope it is now well and truly the end!!

Man, I tagged all those other threads with "slipping" and related shit and still people come up with new and more retarded ways of explaining loose cogs n shit.. I quit.

Also, I found a great tool-less way to remove a cog which is hard to remove (just do the opposite of what it describes, as this is for installing a cog) - http://204.73.203.34/fisso/eng/schpignone.htm

Seen that method before. Never noticed this sweeping, and IMHO dangerous, statement before though.

The lock ring is now unnecessary.

^^£20 says you don't^^

Damn my slow typing.

Seen that method before. Never noticed this sweeping, and IMHO dangerous, statement before though.

I'm with Smallfurry.

The lockring is only 'unnecessary' if the torque applied to the ring during a skid or other sudden deceleration of the rear wheel is less than that with which the ring was fitted - ie. YOU STILL NEED THE LOCKRING.

Cog
Lockring
BB
Chainline

I'd like to see you explain this, it is the sprocket...

Also:

Cogs mesh with other cogs
Racks mesh with pinions (unless you are French)

Chains mesh with Sprockets

Man, I tagged all those other threads with "slipping" and related shit and still people come up with new and more retarded ways of explaining loose cogs n shit.. I quit.

i also tagged some of the other threads cog, so now "slipping cog" returns wonderful results. this issue has been done and done.

I'm with Smallfurry.

The lockring is only 'unnecessary' if the torque applied to the ring during a skid or other sudden deceleration of the rear wheel is less than that with which the ring was fitted - ie. YOU STILL NEED THE LOCKRING.

the statement of "the lockring is now unecessary" doesn't feature in all the rotafix tutorials.

I was experiencing something like this, and pinned it down to a bit of slack in the chain...

I could live with it, until bombing down a hill yesterday at full tilt, and the chain decided to drop off the chainring. luckily didn't get stuck in the spokes and shred my lovely new wheel, it just locked my back wheel up, resulting in the mother of all skids, lasting about 30 or 40 metres fishtailing all over the shop I was bricking it. (busy main road in rush hour with cars passing at 40-50mph) Finally slid to a halt and checked my tire, surprised it looked ok.. then saw how it had gone through to the casing and was completley flat for about 4 inches. It was a bumpy ride home!

So anyway way question 1 :

I'm guessing the chain dropping off was due to it being slack, but does anyone have a good method for getting really good chain tension? I'm running an old bob jackson frame, with front loading horizontal drop outs. I just can seem to get the chain super tight?

Question 2: Anyone know any good strong and cheapish tires? I've been running 23c s but could fit something a bit bigger, not too big and slow though, but something that won't die if i do a40 metre 30 mph skid? (which is pretty unlikely i have to admit, but would be nice to know the option was there.)

All help would be greatly appreciated, cheers!

put the brake back on

If the lack of lockring tool is referring to the quote at the top of the link, is it not a typo and meant to say

"enables the secure assembly of a track sprocket without having to use the traditional lock ring tool"

edit: just noticed it says it again at the bottom, so scratch that!

So anyway way question 1 :

I'm guessing the chain dropping off was due to it being slack, but does anyone have a good method for getting really good chain tension? I'm running an old bob jackson frame, with front loading horizontal drop outs. I just can seem to get the chain super tight?

the "walking method" check sheldon's website, basically involves, having one track nut tight, pulling the wheel to one side, tighten that side, loosen other side, pull that way. in this way the wheel "walks" in the dropout, enabling perfect tension. when in correct place, make sure wheel is centred and just tighten the nuts down.

If the lack of lockring tool is referring to the quote at the top of the link, is it not a typo and meant to say

"enables the secure assembly of a track sprocket without having to use the traditional lock ring tool"

you don't need a lockring tool to put a cog on?

the "walking method" check sheldon's website, basically involves, having one track nut tight, pulling the wheel to one side, tighten that side, loosen other side, pull that way. in this way the wheel "walks" in the dropout, enabling perfect tension. when in correct place, make sure wheel is centred and just tighten the nuts down.

you don't need a lockring tool to put a cog on?

True, thought might be being lazy and calling a chain whip a lockring tool, but it appears they are just being idiots!

[QUOTE=vélo libre;948854]the "walking method" check sheldon's website, basically involves, having one track nut tight, pulling the wheel to one side, tighten that side, loosen other side, pull that way. in this way the wheel "walks" in the dropout, enabling perfect tension. when in correct place, make sure wheel is centred and just tighten the nuts down.

Cheers I'll give it a go, I've tried the pulling back wheel pushing frame forward technique but always left with a little slack.

Are there any chain tensioners that'll go on a front loading dropout?

This is 100% a problem with your cog/ lockring being loose. Take it to a shop where a nice man will tighten it properly for you.

[QUOTE=vélo libre;948854]the "walking method" check sheldon's website, basically involves, having one track nut tight, pulling the wheel to one side, tighten that side, loosen other side, pull that way. in this way the wheel "walks" in the dropout, enabling perfect tension. when in correct place, make sure wheel is centred and just tighten the nuts down.

Cheers I'll give it a go, I've tried the pulling back wheel pushing frame forward technique but always left with a little slack.

Are there any chain tensioners that'll go on a front loading dropout?

If you still struggling getting it tight, you can use a tennis ball (or improvise) between your rear wheel and seat tube to push your wheel back into the drop outs.

Awesome!

Now all i need is my new tyre to land as the last one was a write off... come on mr planet x !