14bikeco custom bike

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  • Everyone else has already said it, but those prices are taking the piss.

    £1200 for a fixed bike with basic, quality components is absolutely mental.

    I wouldn't set foot back in the shop if they quoted me that price. Surely at least a 30% discount for buying the whole thing would be reasonable, taking it to £900 which is still a rip off but acceptable, given that everyone has to make a living and their rent probably isn't cheap. Can't honestly believe they could quote you that with a straight face. It reminds me of the wapping warrior thread.

  • I know this should be in a different thread but what the heck.

    Which of this bike builds is the most bang for buck?

    Charge plug racer ~£550 (going to test later)
    Fuji track ~£400
    Bianci pista ~630
    Condor potenza £699 (Condor) (going to test after this post)
    Surly steamroller £675(Brixton bike) (tested)
    Ellis-Briggs fixed £849
    BLB fixed £750 (tested)
    Specialized Langster £450

    IMO

    Fuji track - best for on a budget
    Condor Potenza - nice frame and forks and ok components
    Ellis Briggs - good frame and forks and unsurprisingly as its the most expensive, best components from that list

    Would avoid the Bianchi. Nothing against them, as I own one, but not worth £630. They used to be much cheaper.

  • Put another way, I bought a brand new full carbon race bike with a decent Campag groupset for just a bit more than that.

  • Do NOT spend that kind of money for those parts from that shop.

    Did I make myself clear?

  • I know this should be in a different thread but what the heck.

    Which of this bike builds is the most bang for buck?

    Charge plug racer ~£550 (going to test later)
    Fuji track ~£400
    Bianci pista ~630
    Condor potenza £699 (Condor) (going to test after this post)
    Surly steamroller £675(Brixton bike) (tested)
    Ellis-Briggs fixed £849
    BLB fixed £750 (tested)
    Specialized Langster £450

    that is something you have to decided for yourself really, test ride them, and choose the one that you enjoy riding the most.

    Having said that, avoid the bianchi as it's too expensive, you might as well get a lovely condor instead, the bianchi is kinda like the Fuji but with slighty better component, if you do want one, try and get one second hand.

  • I'd just get a fuji track and ride the shit out of it. Let it get dirty and fucked up and start thinking about the next bike. Then, when you have your spangly new whip, keep the fuji for pub and shite weather use. You'll like it probably, they ride nicely in my experience.

    maybe.

  • avoid the bianchi as it's too expensive.

    Great advice ;)

  • Fuji Track is probably the most economical - in terms of it's the cheapest, it's light, agile/manourverable, and has ok components.
    I have owned both the Fuji and a Charge, and i much prefer the charge. It is heavier, but IMO is more fun to ride. All the bearings are sealed, and all the components (with the exceptions of the stem and pedals) are decent, and better than the Fuji's. I love riding my Charge!

  • have a go at lacing your own wheels. The lacing itself you can't really get wrong - it's either right or wrong, and it's easy to tell, and most bike shops will true and de-egg a pair of wheels for less than twenty squid. And it's great fun, because you can then look down your nose at lesser mechanics than you mighty self.

  • I've riding a bianchi as my first fixed for a few months but bought it second hand for a fair price. I actually love it but its definitely not worth the £600 price tag theyre going for now. I'm currently working my way through swapping most of the components (faster than my bank acount would like) so all I'll be left with from the stock bike is the frame (and maybe the forks but I'd love some lugged ones ! ). Solid advice here from everyone else - buy an otp, enjoy it, learn from it and then build your dream bike.

  • Superprecise: Thanks, I'll pm him.

    illy: I think its because I looked like a total noob wanting to be the cool guys.

    dannyasteriod: yes sir! understood sir!

    Archi Pelago/edscoble: thanks

    forms: The difference between the charge plug racer and fuji track is £150. I definately need a brake for the fuji. Would the extra £150 of the charge plug racer be a better deal or should I can go much further with the fuji track with the £150 upgrades (new wheels..etc)?

    thanks.

  • I reckon go fuji track and have fun deciding what you might change with the £150

  • You'll also probably need to lower the gearing a little on the Fuji. New fairly decent 18T Miche sprocket will cost around £10 and give you a GI of 70. Perfect for general use for most people.

  • Is this officially the most on-topic friendly and helpful thread ever?

    If so it needs punning. But I can't think of any.

    I can't believe it myself. The forum is getting soft.

  • forms: The difference between the charge plug racer and fuji track is £150. I definately need a brake for the fuji. Would the extra £150 of the charge plug racer be a better deal or should I can go much further with the fuji track with the £150 upgrades (new wheels..etc)?

    They're both the same bike, the whole Plug range are really just the exact same frame with different component and colour.

    personally I'd just get the original Plug and add whatever handlebar I want on it (drop/riser/etc.), and still be cheaper, however again up to you, if you like the look of the Racer and think it's worth the extra, go for it.

  • Hey you should buy my Pista off me, £400 and you can see if you love it enough to spunk a grand on a bike next Summer! ;)

  • All the advice here is great so far. If you decide to go OTP, you sound like you know what you're doing. If you build yourself, you seem to know about researching everything possible to make sure you get the best deal.

    That 14 bike is definitely not the best deal. I've built two pretty decent bikes from scratch and had an absolute blast on them for just over half what that whole bike will cost you.

  • The only thing that's a good deal about 14 Bikes is the frame they sell, at least that what I think.

  • Rubbish, that depends how you build it, my bike cost just over a grand and its about as tough as you can get for a track bike, i've smacked it around like a cheap ho, hit a white van, and crashed it doing tricks more times than I can count, and the only thing I ever broke was a few sets of pedals (before I learnt my lesson and stopped buying plastic).
    Personally, I would say spend what you want on your bike, you will never regret getting an expensive bike as long as it is designed for the purpose you have in mind. The last time I had a shit bike was when I was 11, maybe 12 my memories not that good.....lots of drug and alcohol abuse over the years....anyway I digress, just go for it, it hasn't got to be from 14, or from any other specialist retailer, it can be built by yourself or a fellow forum member....or whatever...
    The satisfaction you get from owning a bike that was completely specified by you from the ground up is second to none, just do it.

    true words.
    in particular the last sentence.. before the comma.. the bit about satisfaction.

    first track bike was custom built by one of londons track bike shops.. wasnt happy at all and spent almost the same amount re-doing it, but i learnt so much and i should have did it myself in hindsight but the experience was a good one albeit an expensive one.

  • The lead time at 14bikeco is about 2-3weeks if they don't already have a frame in my size.

    If they do already have a frame in your size it's kind of OTP anyway, as they are not building it specifically to your spec, in the same way as a Condor would be - standard frame, you choose the components. Just because the frame is made in the UK doesn't make it 'custom'.

    As I said in the other thread (broken record I know), I love my Surly and would certainly recommend it. You're doing the right thing test riding everything you're interested in though.

    No need to get a moped in the winter, it never gets that bad - just get some mud guards and a set of waterproofs and you'll be set.

  • forms: The difference between the charge plug racer and fuji track is £150. I definately need a brake for the fuji. Would the extra £150 of the charge plug racer be a better deal or should I can go much further with the fuji track with the £150 upgrades (new wheels..etc)?

    thanks.[/quote]

    Hey again. In my opinion, £150 wouldn't get you that far... You would have to buy a front brake (depending on how good you want this to be, i'd say £15 to £40 - unless second hand). You'd also probably want to buy a new sprocket (and maybe lockring).
    So for arguments sake, lets say you end up with £120 difference between the Fuji and Charge. There's no way you could get a new wheelset that will stand up against the charges for that (again unless you find a second hand bargain).

    All in all, the Charge is better for me, because everything is sealed, it's bomb-proof, and it's more 'fun' to ride. The Fuji is cheaper, lighter, and faster, but not as tough as the charge...
    It's a close call...

  • Charge is a lot heavier though- light weight is good in a bike.

    That said you'll never break the Charge.

    However- I think the point here is to get a decent bike for the smallest amount possible and then save up for the bike of your dreams.

    For example- I bought an OTP, and am steadily replacing bits.

    However the total cost of my wheel build (DA 7600 hubs to CXP30's) should be around £160 all in, built from new and nearly new components.

    That should list at around £300, but having the time to seek out bargains means that you don't have to pay through the nose.

  • I agree that the charge is a fair bit heavier. And is suppose it's different for me because i have 3 fixed bikes - the reason i love the charge so much, is because i can rag it around, not worry about bunny hopping curbs, wheelies etc - which i don't like to do with my other bikes.
    Having said that though, i commute mainly on the Charge, and i commuted on the fuji before that. The fuji was faster because it's lighter (and perhaps due to the geometry - though i'm no professional racer so i doubt it makes much a huge difference), but i wouldn't sacrifice the extra weight for unsealed headset, bb, hubs*, and generally worse quality components.

    Right, if you want a light decent bike that you will upgrade = Fuji.

    If you want a decent bomb proof bike with sellable components that don't really need changing = Charge.

    *Don't actually know if the new Fuji's bearings are sealed or not.

  • Weight usually doesn't matter as long it's handle fine, in fact if you want a bike to be lighter, a good wheelset can make a difference as well as tyres.

  • .

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14bikeco custom bike

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