Mixing chains

There is no reason, provided the chains have been subject to a similar amount of use, and they are very similar in sizes, that you can't mix two chains. The important thing is to ensure you use a good quality joining link/snaplink. Most of these are made to fit any generic chain in whatever size is applicable, in yours presumably 1/8th. As such there is no reason you will have a weak point as joining links are expected to work on any chain. The weakness usually comes from poorly rejoined chains, as long as the join is secure the chain will be fine.

You are suggesting the use of multiple joining links just to save bits of chain? Daft. It'd be cheaper and easier to use a new chain. You can simply resuse the one superlink.

+1 - it's one of the cheapest, but most important bits of the bike. Taking risks and bodging on chains is stoopid.

Although I've done this and it works you are wrong since it does compromise the chain strength. Freewheel it's less of an issue but riding fixed, chain strength is far more important. As I've said again and again.. £10 for a new chain versus £2500 for teeth.. your call.

I did not break my jaw and smash my teeth as the result of a chain failure, but would like to point out that it is a common sort of injury if your chain does snap.

If anyone would like to compare and contract the experience of being strapped to a cervical board whilst being MRI'd, then having their jaw wired up etc to spending a tenner on a chain I am sure you will reach a sensible conclusion.

Buy a new chain.

I have been using links of a half-link chain with other chains and didn't have problems.. I also have been mixing chains of similar width... no problems..

Don't listen to the superstitious ignorant fools that believes this is dangerous..

Don't let moronic dickchaffers try and convince you that running mixed chains is sensible idea when a new, whole, matched, functioning chain costs £10.

Just because your mix 'n' match chain hasn't broken yet..

How many times do I have to say it £10 is a small price to pay to keep your teeth.

Although I've done this and it works you are wrong since it does compromise the chain strength. Freewheel it's less of an issue but riding fixed, chain strength is far more important. As I've said again and again.. £10 for a new chain versus £2500 for teeth.. your call.

*If you are using a Shimano chain you can not push the same pin back through the inner and outer plates. Shimano rivets (pins) are beveled on each side for added strength. This is good in functionality until your chain breaks or you are sizing a new chain. Once the pin is pushed through it flattens out the bevel and weakens that link. For this reason your new Shimano chain will come with two chain pins. These pins include a guide portion and a replacement rivet. The image to the right shows a Shimano chain pin with the section having a rounded nose being the guide section. To use a Shimano pin insert the guide portion of the pin into the connected piece of the chain. You will now set this into the chain tool and press the replacement rivet into place. You can then snap off the guide portion of the pin with a pair of pliers. Shimano chain pins come in 8, 9, and 10-speed widths so be sure to purchase the correct on for your chain. *

http://www.bikeman.com/content/view/440/30/

Ok then I guess its not ideal way of joining a chain but its never failed me and I'll still do it when I don't have the proper pin (which is most of the time). I'm a recent convert to the sram powerlink and thats keeping me happy for now anyway. None of this is really relevant to the original post all I'm saying is its ok to join chains as long as one isn't more worn then the other.

More joins, less teeth.

hippy: In what way would a mismatched chain brake if the chain is the same width, and the plates have the same thickness... ?