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• #2527
does anyone have any thin 26 inch tyres? like 1.3 or something?
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• #2528
kojaks, 1.35, £20ish on crc or I think there is a seller on ebay who sells them for about £16 each. 395g for the wired
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• #2529
What is the lightest 26?
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• #2530
Long shot, but does anyone have a BLB freestyle 48H front hub or two?
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• #2531
They're only £30ish new...
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• #2532
They're out of stock.
Bummer.
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• #2533
The cheapest 26x1.35 kojaks I could find
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• #2534
heads up, they are 395g for the wired version
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• #2535
^ Those are 20 not 26
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• #2537
Not so cheap, and would need some tweeking
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• #2538
What is the lightest 26?
To answer my own question (because I think others were looking):
20mm GP Supersonic 135g
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• #2539
does it have puncture protection?
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• #2540
Hahahhaha!
You are kidding right?
For slightly over 100g I would expect it to last maybe a month and be subject to very regular punctures. I recon one really good long skid could prob go through it?
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• #2541
does it have puncture protection?
Should have had a ;) to make sure you knew I was being sarcastic
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• #2542
I thought it was likely.
I'm considering carrying a second light weight wheelset to league/tourneys and having 'bombproof' set for daytoday polo (and commuting).
I Recon I'll be able to reduce the weight of my bike by about a quarter doing this! (and it's all rotational weigh)... And I'll have my daytoday wheelset with me incase a bork the light one...
Is this a stupid idea?
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• #2543
How much difference does weight make, really?
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• #2544
yeah not loads at all
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• #2545
How much difference does weight make, really?
Ha!
How heavy was that geared hub you ditched? I thought that was because of weight? By the way I'm not just talking tyres here, I'm suggesting lighter rim, lower spoke count, track hubs even lightweight tubes.
Possibly saving about 3kg of weight against my current wheelset!
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• #2546
Your wheels at a tourney need to be stronger imo than everyday throwins.
You need them to last, they'll take more punishment and the last thing you want(even if you have a spare pair of wheels) is to have to call a timeout in a game.
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• #2547
How much difference does weight make, really?
You need to do a ;) so we know when you're being sarky.
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• #2548
Thanks sandy, I'm not that good with sarcasm in real life, let alone on line.
I'm not certain a lower spoke count (with wheel covers) and lighter hubs /tyres... Will make that much difference in short term. The rim on the other hand might still need to be a bit beefy.
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• #2549
having a pair of wheels which you know your gonna break pretty quickly seems a bit excessive not most because it's pretty pricey. Wouldn't it be better to just to combine the money you'd spend on both sets to get one super nice strong set. also who wants to spend as much time playing as truing there wheels.
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• #2550
Rotating weight is THE number one performance altering part of your setup that you can change, if you want to accelerate/stop quickly in a game (who doesn't?) then try and keep it as low as possible.
The ideal would be something like: rims = 400g each, tyres = 400g each, 36 spokes = 200g, giving you a rotating weight of 1kg per wheel (hubs rise/fall so little that you can basically ignore their weight).
Compare this to my current (heavy-ish) setup of: rims = 665g each, tyres = 740g each, 48 spokes = 270g, giving a rotating weight of over 1.5kg per wheel. (I imagine some players have a rotating weight in excess of 2kg.)
If you take the conventional logic of 1g of rotational weight being worth 10g of static weight then the above change would be like shifting 5 kilos from your ride, you will feel that in the turns (nippy/nimble), in fatigue (play harder for longer) and in (crucially in my opinion) acceleration.
Don't build heavy wheels unless you love to crash and don't skimp on spending money on light (and relatively strong/wear resistant) rims/tyres... going front brake heavy on your ride will allow you to run lighter tyres on the rear.
£15 from the right place. Not an unreasonable price, but online is cheaper.