Indoor climbing

My climbing shoes absolutely stink. Wash in cool water with a bit of washing up liquid? I don't want to ruin the rubber on the sole.

Nah. Just put up with the smell. Never store them in a bag, always taller then breathe.

Getting them wet does fuck all. I once spent a few hours in the sea wearing a pair of Miuras and they still stank afterwards.

Some people put cedar wood chips or bags of charcoal in their shoes. Never tried that.

These help

https://www.sportsshoes.com/product/boo1/boot-bananas-shoe-fresheners/?utm_source=google&utm_medium=price_comparison&utm_campaign=googlebase-uk&gclid=EAIaIQobChMI6MXZuYrC1QIVprftCh0cKg2eEAQYASABEgLXA_D_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds

Also, if you wear clean socks every sesson it helps, though I know people avoid that because you can get a tiny bit of movement.

Seconded on boot bananas. I wouldn't use socks though, you definitely lose sensitivity. Buying shoes with natural rather than synthetic uppers helps, too

I can confirm that the boot bananas are an effective solution.

I'm now pulling some V5 boulder problems after an 8 year plateau with grades but have been training lots and watching my diet. The hang board and campus exercises have really helped, combined with getting a bit stronger and lighter.

Definitely have a preference for big overhangy stuff, though – I'm shit at slab and medicore with extreme slopers but it's getting there.

It would be nice to be able to do some V6 eventually. Can't imagine ever climbing harder than that, at least while having a job.

Would never have bought a pair of these. But I won a pair and would definitely recommend them now after using them.

Have you access to a beastmaker fingerboard and a smartphone? If so, I thoroughly recommend trying the beastmaker app. Essentially an interval timer with a buzzer, but it took the thinking out of trying to structure finger strength training and I found it much more effective as a result.
You also don't need to do much to see the benefits.

If you're after a less time intensive solution, using Eva Lopez's Transgression system/board is supposed to yield fantastic results with very low volume. Literally about a minute a week. Obviously depends on having access to a board though (I think they're about €160).

I've been seeing a trainer recently; he gave me a program based on my current strength levels so I've set up an interval timer to use on the beastmaker and another for the campus board based on that. I'll definitely have a look at the app tho.

The place I climb at has a bunch of different hang boards, including a transgression. At the moment I'm just doing half-crimps on 20mm with the beastmaker.

Not adding weight at this point.

Fuck adding weight IMO - at least not for a long time yet. Fingerboarding alone is seriously strenuous - never mind with added weight. Although I'm sure a coach will keep you right.

Made a couple fingerboards myself recently - after seeing the price that Problem Solvers are, figured I could make a quick buck. Turns out they take ages to make, lol.

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That looks great!

A few weeks ago (5?) I dropped from an upside-down toe-hook starting move on to the mats but it was only about 1ft. Landed on shoulders and my head took a bit of a rattle.

Since then I've had a persistent nagging ache in the Occipitalis area – the muscle at the top of the neck, behind the ear. It's not constant but some movements make it noticeable.

Is this bad? Bit of a hypochondriac when it comes to head and neck injuries...

Whether it is or not, I have no clue. But I do know I wouldn't trust a diagnosis of a potential head/neck injury to a randomer on a bike forum. See a professional.

I personally wouldn't worry about it by your description.
However, if it's giving you problems 5 weeks after it happened it won't hurt to try and see someone. Also, random stranger on the internet vs actual doctor seems like an easy choice to make.

Also, had lots of fun at the lead wall last night while my gf got the hang of belaying on a grigri (under supervision of course). Never been so pumped trying to make clips, short roped every time!
Didn't get dropped, so a win in my book either way.

Good point... It really does just feel like a slightly tweaked muscle but of course I immediately think my brain stem is detaching.

How old are you? I honestly find that tweaks take a lot longer to go away (or maybe I'm just more aware?) now I'm almost 30 - still young I know - but definitely less young than I was.

I'm 30... And yeah, things take noticeably longer to repair these days, which is a bit sad. Luckily haven't done a tendon in years but am also a lot more aware of injury avoidance these days.

Found the Hackney Wick Bouldering Project the other day and went for the first time yesterday. Nice little place, not many routes but made up for by being very quiet and good location if you are around those parts

Arch climbing wall changes / popcorn.

https://www.facebook.com/archclimbing/posts/1831404383544192

Ugh. Its going to get worse after the Olympics. The Castle has its fair share of nonsense as a result of overcrowding but is still lovely. Part of what drove me to Strong Hold, which seems to be mostly used by ex Castle regulars, funnily enough.

https://www.facebook.com/archclimbing/posts/1831519913532639

Is anyone interested in doing a top-rope course with me?

I'm doing a one-on-one session at the castle this thursday afternoon on top roping if you want to join? bouldered a lot but never climbed on ropes

Just tried bouldering last night for the first time (as in, first time doing any sort of climbing) - really enjoyed it and was glad I went with membership + free month of entry as opposed to paying for a one off session. I can't really move much today and have a big hole on each index finger :-)
I found the hire shoes REALLY uncomfortable. I tried 2 different sizes but neither felt right - squashed my toes loads. I was thinking of buying some shoes but I'm basically skint at the moment and can't justify spending much. Should i spend £30 at decathlon or am i better off using the hire shoes and saving my pennies for something better?