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• #1427
Was there anything left of the frame?
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• #1428
Model number would be of interest and the grade/size of battery.
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• #1429
Frame was fine, it wasn't even rusty inside the BB shell. It was the exposed cup fused to the BB shell face. I'm amazed how stress free and easily it came out with the hammer action
Had to use it on the cassette lockring too for the same reason. Torque wrench maxed out at 100Nm wouldn't undo it, but impact wrench had it off in under a second -
• #1430
Obviously, I wouldn't use it on a bike that wasn't absolutely fucked, this was exceptional circumstances
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• #1431
DCF922 18V XR
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• #1432
I’d be terrified of taking a hammer drill to any of my bikes. Chapeau!!
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• #1433
I've had a run of working on bikes with BBs that have been completely seized and destined for the bin if they don't come out. Days of Plusgas soaking, blowtorch, etc. did nothing. Long breaker bars are hard to get torque applied in the correct plane, or unable to secure the tool firmly, so splines or get chewed. Using a vice and then using the frame as leverage requires loads of space and time, and same problems apply. So I thought, why not try it? I'm doing multiple bikes for a construction company, all in the same condition, they said they'd just scrap them if they can't be fixed so consequences of actions were minimal if it didn't work.
I would obviously be less inclined to do this on a £12k S-Works...
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• #1434
And obviously I didn't use it to put the new BB and cassette lockrings on again. Just to be clear!
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• #1435
Impact wrench is truly a bliss for stuck bottom brackets, i'm much less worried for the frame when using one than with a long breaker bar with extensions.
I'm currently fighting a stuck seatpost on a Pelago San Sebastian, after a week of trying I'm seriously considering buildong one of those gilloutine-like special tools.
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• #1436
Like this?
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• #1437
Obviously, I wouldn't use it on a bike that wasn't absolutely fucked
As long as you're just using impact to undo stuff, and you've made sure there's a sound fit between tool and fastener, go nuts I say - impact is indeed a game-changer. 1/4” size (screw gun) is even more handy on a bike.
Come to think of it, maybe there's some way adapt a rack and pinion from a car so you can use a rattle gun to remove a seatpost...
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• #1438
Which of the Ryobi dak-daks would be most suitable for bicycle use?
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• #1439
I have this https://ryobitools.com/products/details/33287178230 which I have used for unruly bottom brackets and lockrings - although purchased for car use
I also have their basic impact driver - which came with a 3/8 adapter which I have on occasion combined with 3/8 Allen socket adapters.
You do need to be careful/sensible with both but I have used them for fastening stuff - obviously you want to stop after the first impact or so and then actually torque with a torque wrench but it makes things like swapping centre lock rotors super quick and easy
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• #1440
Definitely not after porn but this seemed as good a place as any. I'd like to buy a drill for general home pissing about and occasionally bike related pissing about. What should I be looking at?
It doesn't need to be fancy because at most it will maybe be used for putting up some curtains and drilling a hole in a mudguard. I'd also rather not buy something that's going to break as soon as I look at it. I'd rather buy new I think. I'm not tied into any eco systems so that doesn't play a part in the decision. -
• #1441
Lots of decent deals on Ryobi at the moment. Something like this should do the job
https://amzn.eu/d/4m2bJbw
Ryobi tools are a bit cheaper than their counterparts, batteries a bit more expensive.They may not be site quality but perfectly fine for DIY .
Otherwise there are probably some decent DeWalt/Makita deals going at the moment. You can't really go wrong there
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• #1442
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/314984952533
Will do brick (but not concrete) hammer drilling too
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• #1443
Is this the one with the removable head so you can add all sorts of offset and right angled heads?
I really like the idea of these smaller drills for round the house stuff, but can't really exit the dewalt ecosystem at this point.
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• #1444
Exactly, I planned to try to simplify the design a bit. Due to heavy rains & snowmelt our basement is currently flooding so I had to put this on hold and I'm going with the draincleaner for now.
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• #1445
Nah just the standard combi drill. That interchangeable one is kind of cool, but in the workshop it's essential to have drill + impact driver. Smaller site work I just take the combi.
I reckon 12v is perfect for round the house DIY. And furniture making for that matter.
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• #1446
These are great for fettling or moderate DIY, highly recommended. 2Ah batteries are bit small for longer jobs but will get you by for most things, especially 2 on rotation.
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• #1447
The forces in removing a stuck seatpost are quite significant, how much force can steering components create? My idea was to build a similar gilloutine looking contraption to what was linked above, but use some stuff like spring compressors I already have.
here's quite a simple way to turn a stuck post and make noise https://youtu.be/P-YpmDx86d0?si=jyTypVg0waA2F0I0
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• #1448
Thanks for the drill suggestions gang! Will have a look into those and see what's on offer when I'm a bit more flush after the new year.
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• #1449
Thanks for the link - did serve to highlight that I can't buy green Ryobi here.
I might pick one up in the UK and work out how on earth to get the battery back to SG afterwards...
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• #1450
You can take up to 8Ah (@18v) on a flight in hand luggage
DeWalt, hence not porn