• Another thing to check is that the cleats are screwed tight to the sole of your shoes.

  • Did this ever get sorted? I've started getting the exact same problem.

  • i have this happen on about half my bikes -
    in no particular order - here's the options as i see it

    a loose (or worn) BB
    b loose (or ill fitting) chainring bolts
    c knackered pedal
    d loose crank bolt (ie. bolt that holds crank to BB)
    e ill fitting cranks (taper is wrong or more likley taper on crank or BB axle is worn - i've seen this happen when someone rides with a loose crank bolt and the tapers round off)
    g loose cleat or creaky shoe

    f - after all this i've still had it - the soulution was to remove crank and grease the taper slightly - it's often very small movements in the crank around the taper (something that over torquing and almost stripping the thread on the crank bolt didn't cure) - make sure you tighten those crank bolts tight - this is actually a likely cause - if it's not this get your knees and ankles checked out

  • it was a real "click" every revolution, couldn't sus it out.

    actually more like a "tick"

  • on taped Bb you actually have four positions the cranks can mate up with the BB - north west south east - you might try taking cranks off and repositioning - when mine did it it was much more prominent upon change of acclearation - ie' slwoing after accelerating or accelerating after slowing (assuming you're using the legs to brake here) - this told me it was small movements of the crank around the taper - or loose chainring bolts.

    it was a ticking noise - when i tightened crank beofre the grease it gave the very same tick - the kind of metal against metal ("i'm tight now thanks you") noise you get when tightening the wheel nuts of car or a stem bolt etc. etc.

  • I think I've worked mine out. Having refitted the BB and cranks numerous times, replaced the chainring bolts, tightened and regreased everything, the click was still there. However, if I twist the bars sideways really hard, trying to twist the whole bike, I got the same click.
    Recently got a new wheel which I needed to space out to fit into the frame, and I've spaced it slightly too much so it's a little squeeze to get it in. Figured it must be something moving around the rear dropouts that's causing the click. Gonna strip all that back later and do some filing to see if I can get rid of the click.

  • I think I've worked mine out. Having refitted the BB and cranks numerous times, replaced the chainring bolts, tightened and regreased everything, the click was still there. However, if I twist the bars sideways really hard, trying to twist the whole bike, I got the same click.
    Recently got a new wheel which I needed to space out to fit into the frame, and I've spaced it slightly too much so it's a little squeeze to get it in. Figured it must be something moving around the rear dropouts that's causing the click. Gonna strip all that back later and do some filing to see if I can get rid of the click.

    I think I've worked mine out. Having refitted the BB and cranks numerous times, replaced the chainring bolts, tightened and regreased everything, the click was still there. However, if I twist the bars sideways really hard, trying to twist the whole bike, I got the same click.
    Recently got a new wheel which I needed to space out to fit into the frame, and I've spaced it slightly too much so it's a little squeeze to get it in. Figured it must be something moving around the rear dropouts that's causing the click. Gonna strip all that back later and do some filing to see if I can get rid of the click.

    I think I've worked mine out. Having refitted the BB and cranks numerous times, replaced the chainring bolts, tightened and regreased everything, the click was still there. However, if I twist the bars sideways really hard, trying to twist the whole bike, I got the same click.
    Recently got a new wheel which I needed to space out to fit into the frame, and I've spaced it slightly too much so it's a little squeeze to get it in. Figured it must be something moving around the rear dropouts that's causing the click. Gonna strip all that back later and do some filing to see if I can get rid of the click.

    You must have been so excited, you posted it three times.

  • Oops. Actually, I only clicked it once then the forum crashed on me. I thought my life was over, I even talked to real life people in the 20mins I wasn't on here.

  • Oops. Actually, I only clicked it once then the forum crashed on me. I thought my life was over, I even talked to real life people in the 20mins I wasn't on here.

    I know, I kinda wanted to go on the forum to talk about the forum being down! Arrgh!

  • Other common (but strangely unbelievable) causes of regular (rhythmic) clicking I have diagnosed and solved (ALL purportedly coming 'from crank or BB' when reported by riders):
    1) fit of bars in stem, fixed by light greasing before re-tightening (tightly).
    2) quill stem in fork, same fix!
    3) seat rails in seat clamp, same fix!!
    4) finally, a loose front skewer - HTFU
    In all these cases, the clicking was synchronous with pedalling cadence because of the shift in weight or pull on bars during pedal stroke, and these noises seem to travel oddly around the bike.

    Moral of the story is don't rule out the least obvious causes of funny noises.

  • I know this is old and no one is looking, but I FIXED IT FOR REAL THIS TIME.... just in case someone else gets this, my crank arm and chain ring are one, flanged or something, but, I had actually worked it loose from going back and forth and running a 52/15 set up and that is what made the creaking noise, as with the handle bars and the seat... apparently running 91 plus gear inch from a dead stop up a hill is bad for those types of cranks... meh, sorted with 5 pound crank arm and 5 pound 50T chain ring.. if anyone has a 51 or 52 with a 110 bcd, I would be much appreciative. AND on a side note, if I am going to keep the 50/15 do I need a half link?

  • Have you tightened chainring bolts? If youve checked these and everything else, examine frame thoroughly for cracks. I have seen three of these raleigh 501 frames with snapped dropouts, one of them my own.

  • yeah, I have, I had to change the crank to that 5 pound one because the stock one actually moved every so slightly on the chainring, the original had no chainring bolts, as it was directly connected to the crank arm. that has sorted it out for the moment, had to replace the axle in the bb too but that was no problem, fairly cheap and easy to get ahold of

  • I am taking the liberty to hijack this one, since the issue seems to be solved but the headline fits my question.

    Cranks on my current build unscrew themselves somehow and start creaking. This goes away with a bit of fastening with an allen key and everything is nice and smooth again. They loosen only if I skid hard, but if I do, they can loosen quite a bit actually.
    Oh, perhaps worth mentioning I'm a cheapskate, shimano UN-54 and stronglight crankset - part of the problem might lie there really.

    My question is: for the new build I have in the pipeline, how can I absolutely make sure I avoid this stupid problem? Does anyone know of a some golden combinations of BB and crankset which can handle a bit of skidding? And presuming I'll have to pay more for this, what is the improvement I am really paying for? Are there any other things to keep in mind?

  • Fit them correctly the first time. Borrow's someone's torque wrench.

  • Cranks on my current build unscrew themselves somehow and start creaking. This goes away with a bit of fastening with an allen key and everything is nice and smooth again. They loosen only if I skid hard, but if I do, they can loosen quite a bit actually.
    Oh, perhaps worth mentioning I'm a cheapskate, shimano UN-54 and stronglight crankset - part of the problem might lie there really.

    My question is: for the new build I have in the pipeline, how can I absolutely make sure I avoid this stupid problem? Does anyone know of a some golden combinations of BB and crankset which can handle a bit of skidding? And presuming I'll have to pay more for this, what is the improvement I am really paying for? Are there any other things to keep in mind?

    It is a bike, not a build.
    If you can't put a bike together properly quit being so pretentious.

    There is nothing wrong with your components, what was lacking was skill in the 'build'.
    You may have wrecked the taper if you are describing your issue correctly, if so you've ruined a decent set of cranks.

    If you put the pieces together properly you can skid on anything.

  • wouldn't it be more pretentious to claim I've got a new bike coming when (hopefully) 80% of the components stay the same?

  • If you put the pieces together properly you can skid on anything.

    Caveat: Dependent on tyre choice, Gear inch, crank length, leg strength, speed at time of skid, road surface, etc etc

  • wouldn't it be more pretentious to claim I've got a new bike coming when (hopefully) 80% of the components stay the same?

    It is wack-as-fuck whatever you call it if you can not put a crank on properly and then try to pass it off as shit manufacturing when it inevitably goes wrong.

    Does anyone know of a some golden combinations of BB and crankset which can handle a bit of skidding?

  • Caveat: Dependent on tyre choice, Gear inch, crank length, leg strength, speed at time of skid, road surface, etc etc

    True, but I had assumed you would be bombing down some massive hill in San-Francisco.

  • The left crank on my Lanster is clicking everytime the pedal reaches the top. Well, it clicks as I apply downward pressure when its at the peak I think is more the case. If I take my foot off the left pedal and allow full rotations there is no clicking noise. It's SO annoying.

    In my ingorance I took the pedal off and put it back on but that seemed to work for about 30 seconds.

    Any ideas guys?

    Thanks.

  • This thread has lots of suggestions and help for a problem that sounds almost the same as yours.

  • Thanks. Read the thread but think its something different. I can feel the click through my left foot so its deffo pedal or crank related. Gonna go have a play.

    Also, the bike is brand new. Well, a month old.

  • I've just started getting the exact same problem on my 09 specialised allez, not had chance to look at it yet, but if you have any joy I'd appreciate a shout, i'll obviously reciprocate if i manage to pull it to bits and solve the problem

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Bike noise, creak, click, creaks, clicks, clicking, pinging sound - help

Posted by Avatar for hamster @hamster

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