Langster / Langster Pro / Langster Steel

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  • although for casual cycling (commute and general transport rather than recreation) it saves having another bit or kit to cart around...(shoes)

    Yeah, but if it rains properly, not just a light shower, shoes get wet anyway, with or without the mudguard. I used to have both front and rear, and my shoes still get wet, hence I started using overshoes... I guess everyone is different with their perferences. :-)

  • How do you mean by sare extenstions? LIke an extended bit? I am not aware of it, but I could be wrong. I have 25c on mine and the wheel is at the end bit of the dropout... not ideal.

    there seems to be two spare extention bits, so was a bit baffled! Fitted the front fine and going to do the rear tomorrow

    thanks for the tips!

  • Just discovered the 2012 langster while bored and bike browsing.

    Have to say it is looking very nice. Get some decent wheels and it would be a pretty cool bike. They should sell the frameset too.

  • I much prefer the older colour schemes.

  • My favourite is still the 2008, look real classy.

  • I'm tempted to get the 2011 alu rather than the steel even though they are the same price on sale.. thoughts?

  • Both will do the job but they do look different so get the one you prefer the looks of.

    I would go Alu as it will be lighter and the stem will not be flexing all over the place.

  • Hello there, my name is Dan and I am thinking of buying some new breaks for my langster steel as even though I have put new pads on their it is still not very keen on stoping

    The tiagras were reccomended for a cheap upgrade, I don't know whether I would need to get the 49mm or 57mm drop - any advise?

  • Anyone???????

  • bump

  • just kidding, I'll stop being a dick now.

  • Pretty sure I have a 49mm drop Shimano 105 caliper on my Langter Steel. That with some swiss stop pads and stopping is no issue.

  • Very much doubt it'll be anything other than 49mm. There are ways of checking though. :)

    http://www.lfgss.com/thread24954.html

  • I've got ultegra brakes on mine, they do a good job. The springs went in the cheapo original brakes that came with it. ('08 green as per pic above)

  • I'd stretch to 105 over Tiagra if you can as the 105 pads are the replaceable cartridge type, so you can swap them for Swissstops / Koolstops / etc.

  • Hello there, my name is Dan and I am thinking of buying some new breaks for my langster steel.

    You could try crashing against a brick wall, that'll defintely break it.

  • Cheers for the replies, will probably spring for the 105s - is there any difference between the 5600s and 5700s? Also it says somewhere that you must have the specific types of lever to go with the brake - BS?

    Wools, yeah I know... UTFS. Sorry :-(

    You could try crashing against a brick wall, that'll defintely break it.

    LOL I trol u trolololol

    I am actually perfectly literate but just wondered whether anyone would take the bait. I am now using my smugness as lubrication to bring myself to a powerful orgasm.

    Also I believe that I should have referred to 'braks', to use the parlance of our time?

  • Cheers for the replies, will probably spring for the 105s - is there any difference between the 5600s and 5700s? Also it says somewhere that you must have the specific types of lever to go with the brake - BS?

    Shimano changed the brake cable pull ratio on 5700/6700/7900 so you shouldn't mix, say 5600 STI levers and 5700 brakes or vice versa.

    Plain brake levers will work with either but the 5700s will feel more aggressive than the 5600s. I used 5700s on this with the Tektro RL cross levers (which I think are used on the Langster) and the braking was really quite sharp, it was easy to lock the rear. But nothing you wouldn't quickly get used to.

  • Cheers for the replies, will probably spring for the 105s - is there any difference between the 5600s and 5700s? Also it says somewhere that you must have the specific types of lever to go with the brake - BS?

    Pretty sure mine are the 5700s and work great, lever wise I originally had the Specialized one that comes with the bike bit the bolt thread stripped really easily, replaced it with a cheapish Tektro which worked fine and now have a lovely Paul Components job.

  • Shimano changed the brake cable pull ratio on 5700/6700/7900 so you shouldn't mix, say 5600 STI levers and 5700 brakes or vice versa.

    Plain brake levers will work with either but the 5700s will feel more aggressive than the 5600s. I used 5700s on this with the Tektro RL cross levers (which I think are used on the Langster) and the braking was really quite sharp, it was easy to lock the rear. But nothing you wouldn't quickly get used to.

    Ah, OK.

    My Wangster has Specialized levers on it, not Tektro. The braks are alright but am getting the itch to start upgrading things a bit and this is probably the cheapest place to start. Plus the braks and leavers are black and I want everything to be SHINY!!

  • Pretty sure mine are the 5700s and work great, lever wise I originally had the Specialized one that comes with the bike bit the bolt thread stripped really easily, replaced it with a cheapish Tektro which worked fine and now have a lovely Paul Components job.

    What Paul Components lever do you have? Just had a look on their website - very nice!

    Also can you get their stuff here or do you need to order from the US?

    Ta.

  • What Paul Components lever do you have? Just had a look on their website - very nice!

    Also can you get their stuff here or do you need to order from the US?

    Ta.

    I have the E Lever in black and silver. You can get them from Tokyo Fixed Gear but I picked mine up second hand.

  • I'm about to move the parts from my '08 langster to a new frame.

    The langster frame is in scruffy condition. The paint is a bit faded due to general abuse / lack of care, the headset is f*cked, there's a small wear mark on the left of the headtube where the brake cable has worn the paint through to the alu, and the non-driveside seat stay angles in to the bike / wheel ever so slightly.

    BUT... none of it is terminal, there are no cracks or dents elsewhere, it's just in need of some tlc. It's the green model with the white rectangular specialized decals by the way.

    Does anyone buy these frames when they're not in perfect condition? If so, any thoughts on what it might go for? The langster frames I've seen on ebay from that era normally go for about £100, reckon that's about right or steep for one with a dodgy headset?

  • ^ I sold a 2011 good condition langster frameset last month for £70 and i chucked in bars and stem with that. It was a 61 (XXL) so didn't garner much interest, and I opted for a local sale for quick moneys. headset problem will put people off

  • What size is it? the more common the size, the more dollas.

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Langster / Langster Pro / Langster Steel

Posted by Avatar for edscoble @edscoble

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