Nitromors hints and tips

I'd have it blasted.

agree, have it blasted. I removed the powder coat from my frame recently and it doesn't just fall off. Ended up using a wire brush drill attachment.
Thought I would then just polish it up (alu frame) to find the alu was pitted all over so rubbed down with sand paper and then polished.

Still looks shit after many hours wasted so just bought another frame at weekend and giving it up as a bad job!

problem with blasted is that it leave a dull finish, having says that I'm not sure how easy is it to polish it up back to a clear finish, anyone?

I feel like stripping my Condor back to bare metal, polish it and clearcoat it.

Yeah, i was trying to avoid blasting as i want it steel polished by armoutex and dont want the dull grey that blasting produces, maybe i should ring them and find out how much blasting would effect the finish.

Scratch the surface up before applying Tom. You can sort the finish out after with some fine paper. sadly it's a very manual process

good point about the blasting, however the sanding/wire brushing etc, to get paint fully off may not be any better!

fuck it. get it blasted and chromed!

sadly it's a very manual process

a couple of metal polishing people I phoned didn't even want to do my frame for me as they said it was too much work!!

http://www.lfgss.com/thread29899.html

Contains link to london based polisher.

Finished product looks good.

a couple of metal polishing people I phoned didn't even want to do my frame for me as they said it was too much work!!

i have stripped 3 myself.. takes days and by the end you get pissed with catching your acid burnt fingers on the braze ons whilst your eyes sting and lungs ache.

i got a bonsai brass wire brush - it doesn't scratch up the frame as much and gets in the tight spots. helps massively

Right, so after going asking in both a hardware store and a Car store place, and having both look at me like im a mentalist, I just ordered some Loctite Gasket Remover online. I shall report back on its effectiveness once experiments have been undertaken.

I want to get rid of some decals on a titanium frame. Can I use nitromors?

if they are painted on, yes

I have no clue when it comes to decals. How do you tell?

if you can't peel them off, they are paint, or under a clearcoat?

Yeah, I think they're under a clearcoat then. So, my next question....how the fuck do I get the clearcoat off? Basically I'm lazy and I don't want whatever I do to leave a mark so that I'll have to use elbow grease on the whole frame!

nitromors will remove the clear coat, if it's ti, you won't have to worry about it rusting etc.
of just get it blasted for about 20 quids.

Don't forget that if you remove a section of clearcoat, you'll able to see the difference.

I went for the easy way by removing the clearcoat on the downtube, not very noticable (clearcoat look shinier).

The trick to nitromors is that it mustn't dry out. Slop it on your frame, then do another coat, then wrap it up in clingfilm and put it in a cool shady spot (in the shed or something) and leave it for an hour. I've never seen paint that hasn't been removed easily with this method, and I used to be a fabricator/painter/general dogsbody in a film set works, so I did this all the time.

I find that scraping the paint off (e.g. with a plastic spoon) works well, then going over with wire-wool dipped in thinners. For getting it out of the little nooks and crannies, you can get tiny brass wire brushes from automotive tool shops (they're for cleaning out spark plugs). They don't leave big scratches like steel ones. Toothbrushes work okay, just not as well.

Going to have a go at this.
How much do I need for a DJ frame?

Has anyone clear coated themselves after? I know there's a different thread somewhere for that.

And anyone tried this?

Slight threadjack:

If you can't get nitromors or don't want to run the risk of serious chemical burns, I can recommend 'Rustins Strypit' paint stripper. works on every paint I've tried and even on powdercoat with repeat applications. Nice and thick too so less likely to drip. Also no burns - I haven't dunked a hand in it or anything, but I've gotted little splashes on me with no harm done.

Should be able to get some from a local hardware shop. Good luck!

And no, I don't work for Rustin's (Although reading this back it sort of looks that way...)

Spent hours applying layer upon layer of nitromors, scrubbing, more layers, more waiting. Took off about 1/5 of the paint on the frame.
Took it to a guy who had a huge vat of follic acid and that stripped the lot off, all except the filler over the welds. Then spent another few hours sanding back the filler. All good now.
Only worry is that I left the integrated headset in the frame when he dipped it in the acid. He said all it would do would strip the oil and lube so I just added more when I rebuilt the bike. Anyone foresee any issues with this?

Give it a good clean then regrease, should be all good.

Yeah the Nitromorse isn't so good at stripping, dropping it in a tank is much more effective

OK I have tried to strip a frame with Nitromors and at first I thought I had some super tough paint that was resistant, so I did a little bit of digging and found out that Nitromors is no longer the product that it was. The active ingredient has been removed due to some EU regulation and as such I've used a whole can (which used to bubble up on contact) and stripped about 5% of the paint.

So, fuck this, I'm going to get it bead blasted...

Fuuuccckkk
I need to strip some chrome off my speshy, maybe I'll do some digging and try to find some old stock, or some active ingridient to add.

I found the old active ingredient it's called dichloromethane and is available on eBay
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Methylene-Chloride-Dichloromethane-DCM-General-Use-5-litres-/140865860561?pt=UK_BOI_Medical_Lab_Equipment_Lab_Supplies_ET&hash=item20cc4273d1
It is also available in smaller amounts.